{"id":452,"date":"2016-11-29T22:10:14","date_gmt":"2016-11-29T20:10:14","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.yeryuzundebirkacadim.com\/?p=452"},"modified":"2024-08-19T13:57:09","modified_gmt":"2024-08-19T10:57:09","slug":"buhara","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.yeryuzundebirkacadim.com\/index.php\/2016\/11\/29\/buhara\/","title":{"rendered":"Buhara"},"content":{"rendered":"

4. G\u00fcn: 27 Temmuz 2015 Pazartesi: Buhara <\/strong><\/p>\n

Sabah 8 gibi Hiva’dan otob\u00fcslere binip Urgen\u00e7 havaalan\u0131na do\u011fru yol al\u0131yoruz. Urgen\u00e7\u2019in ad\u0131 eskiden G\u00fcrgen\u00e7mi\u015f. G\u00fcrleyen gen\u00e7 anlam\u0131nda.\u00a0Urgen\u00e7\u2019den 10\u2019da Buhara\u2019ya u\u00e7uyoruz. 11:20\u2019de de bizi \u015fehre g\u00f6t\u00fcren otob\u00fcs\u00fcm\u00fcze binmi\u015f durumday\u0131z.<\/p>\n

BUHARA<\/strong><\/p>\n

Buhara; 2500 y\u0131l \u00f6nce Persler taraf\u0131ndan kurulmu\u015f. \u201cAte\u015fe tapanlar\u0131n \u015fehri\u201d diye \u00fcn yapm\u0131\u015f. Zerd\u00fc\u015ftler, H\u0131ristiyanlar ve Budistler burada ya\u015fam\u0131\u015flard\u0131r. M\u00d6. 500 y\u0131l\u0131nda kurulan \u015fehir, zamanla B\u00fcy\u00fck \u0130skender taraf\u0131ndan ele ge\u00e7irilmi\u015f.<\/p>\n

Buhara efsaneleri bol olan bir \u015fehir. En-Nar\u015fahi’ye \u00a0g\u00f6re buras\u0131n\u0131n ilk sakinleri T\u00fcrklerdir. Efsanevi Turan padi\u015fah\u0131 Afrasyab\u2019\u0131n (Alper Tunga) zaman zaman Buhara’da ikamet etti\u011fini, mezar\u0131n\u0131n dahi bu \u015fehirde bulundu\u011funu kaydetmi\u015ftir ki, bu rivayetler b\u00f6lgedeki T\u00fcrk varl\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131n \u00e7ok eskilere dayand\u0131\u011f\u0131na i\u015faret etmesi bak\u0131m\u0131ndan \u00f6nemlidir.<\/p>\n

Araplar\u0131n bu \u015fehri M\u00fcsl\u00fcmanla\u015ft\u0131rmakta \u00e7ok zorland\u0131\u011f\u0131 s\u00f6yleniyor. Cuma Cami\u2019ne gidenlere \u00f6d\u00fcl da\u011f\u0131tarak halk\u0131 namaza al\u0131\u015ft\u0131rm\u0131\u015flar. Nihayet Buhara, medreseleriyle \u0130slamiyetin Orta Asya\u2019daki \u00fcss\u00fc olmu\u015f. \u0130mam el Buhari, Hoca Ahmet Yesevi, Bahaeddin Nak\u015fibendi, G\u00fccdevani gibi isimlere ev sahipli\u011fi yapm\u0131\u015f. Bu d\u00f6nemde \u201cRuhun g\u00fczelli\u011fi\u201d, \u201c\u0130slam\u0131n kubbesi\u201d, \u201cSoylu\u201d, \u201cKutsal\u201d gibi isimlerle an\u0131lmaya ba\u015flam\u0131\u015f.\u00a0Buhara\u2019n\u0131n kutsall\u0131\u011f\u0131 ile ilgili bir s\u00f6z var: \u201cD\u00fcnyan\u0131n herhangi bir yerinde \u0131\u015f\u0131k yukar\u0131dan gelir, Buhara kendisi \u0131\u015f\u0131kt\u0131r, \u0131\u015f\u0131k sa\u00e7ar\u201d.<\/p>\n

Bundan bin y\u0131l \u00f6nce Samaniler Hanedan\u0131 d\u00f6neminde en parlak g\u00fcnlerini ya\u015farken d\u00f6nemin en \u00fcnl\u00fc bilim adamlar\u0131 ve entelekt\u00fcelleri El Biruni, \u0130bni Sina, Nur\u015faki, Rudaki burada himaye g\u00f6rm\u00fc\u015f.<\/p>\n

Buhara, 1221’de Cengiz Han taraf\u0131ndan, ard\u0131ndan 1273’te ve son olarak da 1316’da, \u00fc\u00e7 defa talan edilmi\u015f, yak\u0131lm\u0131\u015f ve hemen b\u00fct\u00fcn ilmi eserler tahrip edilmi\u015f. \u015eehir bir daha o eski canl\u0131 g\u00fcnlerine hemen hemen hi\u00e7bir zaman kavu\u015famam\u0131\u015f.<\/p>\n

Timur; buray\u0131 yeniden imar etmi\u015f. \u015eehirdeki en \u00f6nemli yap\u0131lar 14. y\u00fczy\u0131lda Timuriler d\u00f6neminde yap\u0131lm\u0131\u015ft\u0131r.<\/p>\n

Buhara bug\u00fcn Mo\u011fol istilas\u0131 \u00f6ncesine ait sadece \u00fc\u00e7 eseri bar\u0131nd\u0131r\u0131yor b\u00fcnyesinde. Samanilerin imparatoru Ali Samani T\u00fcrbesi, Kalan minaresi ve Magoki Attar camii. Ruslar d\u00f6neminde bar olarak kullan\u0131lan bu cami bug\u00fcn de hal\u0131 m\u00fczesi olarak faaliyet g\u00f6steriyor.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Tarihi merkezi de UNESCO D\u00fcnya K\u00fclt\u00fcr Miras\u0131 Listesi’nde.<\/p>\n

\u015eehrin sokaklar\u0131 hem i\u00e7me hem temizlik ama\u00e7lar\u0131yla kullan\u0131lan su kaynaklar\u0131n\u0131n \u00e7evresine in\u015fa edilmi\u015ftir. Bu havuzlar sa\u011fl\u0131ks\u0131z olduklar\u0131 i\u00e7in Sovyetler d\u00f6neminde doldurulmu\u015flar.<\/p>\n

Buhara tren istasyonu, \u015fehir merkezine biraz mesafeli. Bunun sebebi o zamandaki Buhara Emirinin politikas\u0131. 1889 y\u0131l\u0131nda tren hatt\u0131 kuruldu\u011funda, medeniyetle aras\u0131ndaki ba\u011flar\u0131n en aza indirilmesi amac\u0131yla tren hatt\u0131 \u015fehre uzak kurdurulmu\u015ftur. \u00c7\u00fcnk\u00fc o d\u00f6nemde \u015fehir \u201cYasak \u015eehir\u201d yani \u201cen kapal\u0131 toplum\u201d olarak bilinmektedir. Y\u00fczy\u0131llar boyunca \u015fehre hi\u00e7bir yabanc\u0131 girememi\u015f. \u00c7\u00fcnk\u00fc Buhara Emirlerinin 17. y\u00fczy\u0131ldan itibaren d\u00fcnya ile ili\u015fkilerini kestikleri s\u00f6yleniyor. Gizlice girmeyi ba\u015faranlar ise \u00e7ok iyi T\u00fcrk\u00e7e ve Fars\u00e7a bilip molla k\u0131l\u0131\u011f\u0131nda b\u00f6lgeyi ziyaret eden seyyahlard\u0131r. B\u00f6lgeyi ziyaret eden seyyahlardan bir\u00e7o\u011funun \u00f6ld\u00fcr\u00fcld\u00fc\u011f\u00fc s\u00f6yleniyor. \u0130pek Yolu arac\u0131l\u0131\u011f\u0131 ile buradan ge\u00e7en M\u00fcsl\u00fcman t\u00fcccarlar haricinde kimse buraya giremiyormu\u015f.<\/p>\n

\u00d6zbekistan\u2019\u0131n be\u015finci b\u00fcy\u00fck \u015fehridir.<\/p>\n

\u015eehre hayran kalan \u00fcnl\u00fc gezgin \u201cMarco Polo\u201dnun yaz\u0131lar\u0131 buray\u0131 \u0130pek Yolunun \u00f6nemli bir merkezi haline getirmi\u015f.<\/p>\n

Gizemli bir \u015fehir Buhara. Eski tarihin ya\u015fat\u0131ld\u0131\u011f\u0131 \u015fehirlerden. Hiva kadar olmasa da eski \u00e7a\u011flar\u0131n dekorlar\u0131nda geziyorsunuz sanki. Do\u011fal ve be\u015feri afetlerle y\u0131k\u0131lm\u0131\u015f ama ard\u0131ndan itina ile, k\u00f6klerine ba\u011fl\u0131l\u0131kla restore edilmi\u015f.<\/p>\n

\u015eehire 25 km mesafede Burhanettin Nak\u015f\u0131bendi\u2019nin hocas\u0131 Seyid Amir Kulal\u2019\u0131n t\u00fcrbesini\u00a0ziyaret ediyoruz.<\/p>\n

\"G:\\2015-24-07-\u00d6zbekistan\\Buhara\\IMG_1158.JPG\"<\/p>\n

Ard\u0131ndan \u015fehre 12 km mesafede Kasr-\u0131 Arifan\u2019da Bahaeddin Nak\u015f\u0131bendi t\u00fcrbesinin oldu\u011fu yerde \u00f6nce annesinin kabrini ziyaret ediyoruz. \u00c7\u00fcnk\u00fc \u201c\u00f6nce annemin kabrini ziyaret ediniz\u201d demi\u015f. Ard\u0131ndan Nak\u015f\u0131bendi\u2019nin kabrine geliyoruz. Etraf\u0131nda \u015eeybani hanlar\u0131n\u0131n da mezarlar\u0131 var. Dergah olarak yap\u0131lm\u0131\u015f. \u0130\u00e7i cami, d\u0131\u015f\u0131nda 2 katl\u0131 odalar var.<\/p>\n

\"G:\\2015-24-07-\u00d6zbekistan\\Buhara\\IMG_1170.JPG\" \"G:\\2015-24-07-\u00d6zbekistan\\Buhara\\IMG_1174.JPG\"<\/p>\n

\"http:\/\/sheherazade-tour.com\/images\/map_bukhara.jpg\"<\/p>\n

\u015eehre var\u0131nca \u00f6\u011flen 45 dakika dinlenme molas\u0131 verip otelimizde yemek yiyoruz. Otelimizin yeri \u00e7ok g\u00fczel. Magoki Atari Caminin kar\u015f\u0131s\u0131. Lebi Havuzu g\u00f6r\u00fcyor: Asya Buhara Oteli.<\/p>\n

\"G:\\2015-24-07-\u00d6zbekistan\\Buhara\\IMG_1335.JPG\"<\/p>\n

Magoki Attari Cami<\/strong><\/p>\n

\"G:\\2015-07-26-\u00f6zbekistan\\Buhara\\IMG_1390.JPG\"<\/p>\n

Buhara\u2019daki en eski cami. Lebi Havuz manzaral\u0131.<\/p>\n

Burada \u0130slamiyet \u00f6ncesi pagan \u201cMoh\u201d tap\u0131na\u011f\u0131 varm\u0131\u015f. Ancak arkeolojik kaz\u0131larda tap\u0131na\u011f\u0131n \u00fczerinde Samaniler d\u00f6neminde yap\u0131lan bir de kubbeli cami kal\u0131nt\u0131s\u0131 ortaya \u00e7\u0131kar\u0131lm\u0131\u015f. 16.y\u00fczy\u0131la gelindi\u011finde yumu\u015fak zemin nedeniyle cami \u00e7\u00f6ker gibi olmu\u015f ve onun cephesi 1930 y\u0131l\u0131nda y\u00fcr\u00fct\u00fclen kaz\u0131lar sonucunda ortaya \u00e7\u0131kar\u0131lm\u0131\u015ft\u0131r.
\nBurada s\u00fcsl\u00fc tu\u011fla duvarc\u0131l\u0131\u011f\u0131 ve eski \u00e7ini i\u015flemecili\u011fini g\u00f6r\u00fcyoruz.<\/p>\n

Emir Halim (Alim) Han,<\/strong> son han. 1868\u2019de Rus hakimiyetine ge\u00e7tikten sonra vergi kar\u015f\u0131l\u0131\u011f\u0131nda i\u00e7 i\u015flerinde serbest kal\u0131yorlar. Bu arada o\u011fluyla Rusya\u2019ya gidiyor. B\u00fcy\u00fck denizleri, gemileri g\u00f6r\u00fcp etkileniyor. Buhara\u2019da \u00e7ok saray, medrese yapt\u0131r\u0131yor ancak yazl\u0131k saray d\u0131\u015f\u0131nda hepsi yok ediliyor. Bu saray\u0131n da tamam\u0131na yak\u0131n\u0131 Rus bombalar\u0131 ile y\u0131k\u0131lm\u0131\u015f. Han 1917\u2019de, alt\u0131nlar\u0131 ile Bol\u015feviklerden ka\u00e7arken yakalan\u0131yor. Alt\u0131nlar\u0131 al\u0131n\u0131yor. Ailesi ile Afganistan\u2019a gidiyor.<\/p>\n

Yazl\u0131k Saray (Sitorai Mokhi-Khosa Saray\u0131:Y\u0131ld\u0131z\u0131n topraktaki \u0131\u015f\u0131\u011f\u0131)
\n<\/strong> 19. y\u00fczy\u0131lda Buhara emiri Nasrullah Han kendisi i\u00e7in yeni bir konut yapt\u0131r\u0131yor. Yaz\u0131n s\u0131caklar\u0131ndan korunmak i\u00e7in uygun yer bulunuyor ve saray yap\u0131l\u0131yor. Ancak Buhara \u015fehrinin kuzeyinde yap\u0131lan bu \u015f\u0131k saray y\u0131k\u0131l\u0131yor.
\nTakip eden s\u00fcre\u00e7te Buhara emiri Mir Sayid Muhammed Alim Han burada 1912-1918 y\u0131llar\u0131 aras\u0131nda\u00a0yeni bir saray yapt\u0131r\u0131yor. Hatta efsaneye g\u00f6re, emir bu yeni saray\u0131 e\u015fi Sitora i\u00e7in yapt\u0131rm\u0131\u015ft\u0131r. \u00a0\u0130n\u015faat iki Rus m\u00fchendis Margulis ve Kakovitch ile birlikte zaman\u0131n en iyi Buharal\u0131 ustalar\u0131 taraf\u0131ndan y\u00fcr\u00fct\u00fclm\u00fc\u015f. Saray\u0131n mimar\u0131 Gusto \u015eirin. Bir s\u00fcre sonra emirin kar\u0131s\u0131 \u00f6l\u00fcyor ve onun ad\u0131 saraya veriliyor. Bu isim g\u00fcn\u00fcm\u00fcze kadar korunmu\u015f.<\/p>\n

Saray\u0131n eskiden on bir giri\u015f kap\u0131s\u0131 varken \u015fu anda ikisi mevcut.<\/p>\n

\u015eehrin 6 km kuzeyinde yer alan saray; ana bina, birka\u00e7 resepsiyon salonu ve emir i\u00e7in \u00f6zel odalardan olu\u015fmaktad\u0131r.<\/p>\n

Soldan ilerleyince sa\u011fda ilk oda bekleme odas\u0131. Burada satran\u00e7 tak\u0131m\u0131 bulunuyor. Ziyaret\u00e7iler beklerken oynas\u0131n diye.<\/p>\n

Sonraki odada madalyalar, foto\u011fraflar ve cam rafl\u0131 so\u011futucular (bir nevi buzdolab\u0131) var.<\/p>\n

\"G:\\2015-07-26-\u00f6zbekistan\\Buhara\\IMG_1202.JPG\"<\/p>\n

\u00dcnl\u00fc usta Shirin Muradov taraf\u0131ndan dekore edilen \u201cBeyaz Salon\u201d \u00f6zellikle dikkat \u00e7ekiyorr. Burada duvarlar aynalarla kaplanarak dekore edilmi\u015f. Sarayda aynalar fazlaca kullan\u0131lm\u0131\u015ft\u0131r ve yans\u0131ma olu\u015fturulmu\u015f (Sihirli aynalar). \u00d6zellikle Venedik ve Japon aynalar\u0131 kullan\u0131lm\u0131\u015ft\u0131r.<\/p>\n

\"G:\\2015-07-26-\u00f6zbekistan\\Buhara\\IMG_1189.JPG\"\u00a0Son odada; bol caml\u0131, i\u00e7inde hediye gelen Japon vazolar\u0131n\u0131n sergilendi\u011fi \u00e7ok say\u0131da cam vitrin var. K\u0131\u015f bah\u00e7esi havas\u0131nda g\u00fczel, ferah bir oda.<\/p>\n

\"G:\\2015-07-26-\u00f6zbekistan\\Buhara\\IMG_1210.JPG\"<\/p>\n

1927 y\u0131l\u0131nda Buhara Emirli\u011finin y\u0131k\u0131lmas\u0131ndan k\u0131sa s\u00fcre sonra, saray m\u00fcze haline d\u00f6n\u00fc\u015ft\u00fcr\u00fclm\u00fc\u015ft\u00fcr ve bug\u00fcn buras\u0131 \u201cSanat ve El Sanatlar\u0131 M\u00fczesi\u201dni bar\u0131nd\u0131rmaktad\u0131r. M\u00fczenin sergilerinde 19-20.y\u00fczy\u0131llara ait mobilyalar, tak\u0131lar ve Buharal\u0131 ustalar\u0131n el sanatlar\u0131, 14-20. y\u00fczy\u0131l Rus ve Japon porselenleri g\u00f6r\u00fclmektedir.<\/p>\n

\"G:\\2015-07-26-\u00f6zbekistan\\Buhara\\IMG_1215.JPG\"<\/p>\n

(Arkada kameriye)<\/p>\n

Saray\u0131n di\u011fer taraf\u0131nda k\u00fc\u00e7\u00fck bir havuzun yan\u0131ndaki binada Harem var. Haremin kar\u015f\u0131s\u0131nda da merdivenle \u00e7\u0131k\u0131lan y\u00fcksek bir kameriye var. Han burada oturup havuza giren cariyelerini izler ve istedi\u011fini se\u00e7ermi\u015f. Ya da onlara elma at\u0131yor hangisi tutarsa onu se\u00e7iyormu\u015f.<\/p>\n

Saray \u00e7\u0131k\u0131\u015f\u0131nda seyyar sat\u0131c\u0131 kad\u0131nlardan 10 dolara masa \u00f6rt\u00fcleri al\u0131yoruz.<\/p>\n

Chor-Minor Medresesi (D\u00f6rt Minare)<\/strong><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

Chor-Minor; d\u00f6rt minare demek. Buras\u0131 Buhara\u2019n\u0131n ilgin\u00e7 bir eseri. Hint etkisi a\u011f\u0131rl\u0131kl\u0131 bir mimarisi var.
\nD\u00f6rt minare ile \u00e7evrili kare \u015feklindeki medrese binas\u0131n\u0131n \u00fcst\u00fc mavi kubbe ile ta\u00e7land\u0131r\u0131lm\u0131\u015ft\u0131r. D\u00f6rt k\u00f6\u015fesindeki d\u00f6rt minarenin \u015fekli ve i\u015flemeleri birbirinden farkl\u0131. Minarelerdeki bu i\u015flemeler, d\u00fcnyadaki d\u00f6rt dinin felsefi anlay\u0131\u015f\u0131n\u0131 yans\u0131t\u0131yormu\u015f.<\/p>\n

Bir rivayete g\u00f6re zengin T\u00fcrkmen bir tacir taraf\u0131ndan d\u00f6rt g\u00fczel k\u0131z\u0131n\u0131 simgelemesi i\u00e7in d\u00f6rt minareli yap\u0131lm\u0131\u015f bir eserdir.<\/p>\n

Di\u011fer rivayete g\u00f6re Hindistan\u2019daki Ta\u00e7 mahal\u2019den \u00e7ok etkilenen zengin T\u00fcrkmen halife Niyazkul taraf\u0131ndan onun minyat\u00fcr\u00fc olarak yapt\u0131r\u0131lm\u0131\u015ft\u0131r.<\/p>\n

Bug\u00fcn burada hediyelik e\u015fya satan bir d\u00fckkan bulunuyor.<\/p>\n

Lyabi-Khauz (Leb-i Havuz) Kompleksi<\/strong><\/p>\n

\"G:\\2015-07-26-\u00f6zbekistan\\Buhara\\IMG_1316.JPG\"<\/p>\n

Leb-i Havuz\u00a0Kompleksi; tarihi bir su kayna\u011f\u0131 k\u0131y\u0131s\u0131nda yer alan \u00fc\u00e7 medrese ve onun arka plan\u0131ndaki Sarraflar \u00c7ar\u015f\u0131s\u0131, y\u00fczlerce y\u0131ll\u0131k eski Yahudi Mahallesi, Karahanl\u0131lar\u2019dan kalma Orta Asya\u2019n\u0131n en eski camisi Magoki-Attori (\u00c7ukur Aktar) Cami, hal\u0131c\u0131lar ve di\u011fer al\u0131\u015fveri\u015f mekanlar\u0131yla \u015fehrin merkezi konumunda.<\/p>\n

Lyabi-Khauz kelimesi \u201crezervuar\u201d anlam\u0131na gelir. B\u00f6lgede anlat\u0131lan bir efsaneye g\u00f6re Nadir Divan-Beyi zaman\u0131nda yaln\u0131z bir kad\u0131n\u0131n evi olarak in\u015fa edilmi\u015f. Kad\u0131n, g\u00fc\u00e7l\u00fc vezire evin alt\u0131na bir su kanal\u0131 in\u015fa ettirmesini s\u00f6ylemi\u015f ve bu su kanallar\u0131 yap\u0131lm\u0131\u015f.<\/p>\n

Di\u011fer bir efsaneye g\u00f6re vezir buraya havuz yapt\u0131rmak istiyor. Burada bir\u00e7ok ev var. Ba\u015fka yere ta\u015f\u0131nmalar\u0131n\u0131 isteyip para teklif ediyor. Sadece bir ev d\u0131\u015f\u0131nda herkes kabul ediyor. \u0130nat\u00e7\u0131 ev sahibine iki evlik para teklif ediyorlar. Reddedip evime dokunmay\u0131n diyor. Bunun \u00fczerine di\u011fer evler y\u0131k\u0131l\u0131yor. Havuz yap\u0131l\u0131yor. Bu ev ortada kal\u0131yor. Bunun \u00fczerine ev sahibi para verin ta\u015f\u0131nay\u0131m diyor ama nafile. Hi\u00e7 dokunulmadan y\u0131k\u0131l\u0131yor.<\/p>\n

Leb-i Havuz, 1620 y\u0131l\u0131nda yapt\u0131r\u0131lm\u0131\u015f suni ve dekoratif bir havuz. 42 metreye 36 metre boyutunda, 5 metre\u00a0derinli\u011findedir.<\/p>\n

Havuzun \u00e7evresinde, kuzeyde 16.yy.dan kalma ve Buhara\u2019n\u0131n en b\u00fcy\u00fck medresesi\u00a0Kukelda\u015f Medresesi, bat\u0131da Nadir Bey zaman\u0131ndan kalma sufiler i\u00e7in d\u00fczenlenmi\u015f\u00a0Hanaka Medresesi\u00a0ve do\u011fuda ise Nadir Divan Bey taraf\u0131ndan 17.yy.da kervansaray niyetiyle yap\u0131l\u0131p han\u0131n iste\u011fi do\u011frultusunda medreseye d\u00f6n\u00fc\u015ft\u00fcr\u00fclen\u00a0Divan Beyi Medresesi\u00a0yer almaktad\u0131r.<\/p>\n

Kukelda\u015f Medresesi<\/strong><\/p>\n

\"G:\\2015-07-26-\u00f6zbekistan\\Buhara\\IMG_1319.JPG\"<\/p>\n

Medresenin dev ta\u00e7 kap\u0131s\u0131n\u0131n yer ald\u0131\u011f\u0131 \u00f6n cephesi Leb-i Havuz\u2019a bak\u0131yor. S\u00fctkarde\u015fi anlam\u0131na gelen\u00a0Kukelda\u015f Medresesi, 16.yy.da Abdullah Han taraf\u0131ndan yap\u0131lm\u0131\u015f 160 odas\u0131 olan 2 katl\u0131 bir yap\u0131. Ortas\u0131ndaki b\u00fcy\u00fck avluyu \u00e7epe\u00e7evre saran dikd\u00f6rtgen planl\u0131 yap\u0131, 60×80 metre boyutlar\u0131nda Buhara\u2019n\u0131n en b\u00fcy\u00fck medresesidir. Birinci kat dershane, ikinci kat yatakhane olarak yap\u0131lm\u0131\u015f. \u00d6n cephe mavi mozaiklerle kapl\u0131. Mayolika denen s\u00fcslemeler kullan\u0131lm\u0131\u015f. Ruslar geldi\u011finde ortaya ba\u015fka bina yapm\u0131\u015flar. Eski yap\u0131n\u0131n tu\u011flalar\u0131n\u0131 alm\u0131\u015flar. Bir ara otel olarak kullan\u0131lm\u0131\u015f.<\/p>\n

Ruslar Buhara\u2019daki 300 eseri y\u0131k\u0131p harap etmi\u015f. 20-30 tanesi ancak restore edilmi\u015f. \u015eimdi bu medrese m\u00fcze olarak kullan\u0131l\u0131yor.\"G:\\2015-07-26-\u00f6zbekistan\\Buhara\\IMG_1291.JPG\" \"G:\\2015-07-26-\u00f6zbekistan\\Buhara\\IMG_1278.JPG\"<\/p>\n

Nadir Divan-Begi Medresesi <\/strong><\/p>\n

\"G:\\2015-07-26-\u00f6zbekistan\\Buhara\\IMG_1301.JPG\" Vezir Nadir Divan Bey 1619-1620 y\u0131llar\u0131 aras\u0131nda buraya bir kervansaray yapt\u0131r\u0131yor. Bitince bu g\u00fczel eseri g\u00f6stermek i\u00e7in Han\u2019\u0131 davet ediyor. Han eseri g\u00f6r\u00fcnce \u201cNe g\u00fczel medrese yapt\u0131rm\u0131\u015fs\u0131n\u201d diyor. Bunun \u00fczerine vezir ustalara s\u00fcslemelerin medrese s\u00fcslemelerine benzemesi talimat\u0131n\u0131 veriyor. Giri\u015f kap\u0131s\u0131 y\u00fckseltiliyor. O d\u00f6nemde \u0130ran\u2019la sava\u015flar yap\u0131ld\u0131\u011f\u0131ndan s\u00fcslemelerde \u0130ran etkisi g\u00f6r\u00fcl\u00fcyor.<\/p>\n

Giri\u015f kap\u0131s\u0131 \u00fczerinde anka ku\u015funa benzer hayali bir ku\u015f var. Ku\u015fun kanad\u0131 alt\u0131nda, pen\u00e7esinde geyik benzeri hayali bir hayvan mevcut.<\/p>\n

G\u00fcne\u015f; ate\u015fe tapma, Zerd\u00fc\u015ftl\u00fck simgesi.<\/p>\n

\"G:\\2015-07-26-\u00f6zbekistan\\Buhara\\IMG_1302.JPG\"<\/p>\n

Bug\u00fcn buras\u0131 lokanta olarak i\u015fletiliyor. Yemek esnas\u0131nda y\u00f6resel dans g\u00f6sterileri yap\u0131l\u0131yor.<\/p>\n

Medresenin \u00f6n\u00fcnde Nasrettin Hoca\u2019n\u0131n e\u015fek \u00fczerinde (ters de\u011fil) heykeli var.<\/p>\n

\"G:\\2015-07-26-\u00f6zbekistan\\Buhara\\IMG_1314.JPG\"<\/p>\n

Ortak de\u011ferlerimizden biri daha. Ancak buradaki Nasrettin Hoca hikayeleri biraz daha bilgece.<\/p>\n

Hanaka Medresesi<\/strong><\/p>\n

Leb-i havuz kompleksinin ilk yap\u0131lan yap\u0131s\u0131d\u0131r.<\/p>\n

Havuzun bat\u0131s\u0131nda yer al\u0131r. Vezir Nadir Bey zaman\u0131nda (16.yy.dan kalma) sufiler i\u00e7in yapt\u0131r\u0131lm\u0131\u015f bir tekkedir.<\/p>\n

\"G:\\2015-07-26-\u00f6zbekistan\\Buhara\\IMG_1329.JPG\"<\/p>\n

Bu gezi sonunda otele u\u011fruyor ve ak\u015fam yeme\u011fi i\u00e7in haz\u0131rlan\u0131yoruz.<\/p>\n

Ak\u015fam yeme\u011fi i\u00e7in Ahmet isimli T\u00fcrkiye\u2019de \u00fcniversite e\u011fitimi g\u00f6rm\u00fc\u015f bir ki\u015finin evine gidiyoruz. Muazzam haz\u0131rlanm\u0131\u015f yemek masalar\u0131 i\u015ftah a\u00e7\u0131c\u0131 g\u00f6r\u00fcn\u00fcyor.<\/p>\n

\"G:\\2015-07-26-\u00f6zbekistan\\Buhara\\IMG_1351.JPG\"<\/p>\n

\u00c7ok g\u00fczel bir y\u00f6resel dans g\u00f6sterisi oluyor.<\/p>\n

\"G:\\2015-07-26-\u00f6zbekistan\\Buhara\\IMG_1372.JPG\"<\/p>\n

Buhara’daki ilk g\u00fcn\u00fcm\u00fczde merkezde yer alan otel \u00e7evresindeki tarihi binalar\u0131 gezdik.<\/p>\n

5. G\u00fcn: 28 Temmuz 2015 Sal\u0131: Buhara<\/strong><\/p>\n

Ertesi g\u00fcn sabah kahvalt\u0131s\u0131n\u0131n ard\u0131ndan \u015fehrin di\u011fer b\u00f6lgelerini gezece\u011fiz. En bat\u0131dan ba\u015fl\u0131yoruz.<\/p>\n

Ey\u00fcp \u00c7e\u015fmesi (Chashma-\u0130l Ey\u00fcp)<\/strong><\/p>\n

Rivayete g\u00f6re Ey\u00fcp Peygamber, Buhara’y\u0131 ziyaretinde halka nasihatlar etmi\u015f. Kurakl\u0131k d\u00f6neminde, yerli insanlar ondan su istemi\u015fler. Ey\u00fcp Peygamber dua ediyor ve asas\u0131n\u0131 topra\u011fa vurdu\u011funda su \u00e7\u0131k\u0131yor. B\u00f6ylece buradan \u00e7\u0131kan su i\u00e7in, 10. y\u00fczy\u0131lda Samaniler d\u00f6neminde ilk defa kubbeli bir mekan yap\u0131l\u0131yor.<\/p>\n

Di\u011fer rivayete g\u00f6re Ey\u00fcp’\u00fcn hayali mezar\u0131 \u00fczerinde bir Kur\u2019an suresi bulunur. T\u00fcm Orta Asya\u2019dan buraya gelen insanlar Hz Ey\u00fcp\u2019\u00fcn mezar\u0131 \u00e7evresinde tavaf yaparlar. Yani, buras\u0131 ibadet ve ayin yeridir.\u00a0Kompleks zamanla b\u00fcy\u00fck bir mezarl\u0131\u011fa d\u00f6n\u00fc\u015fm\u00fc\u015f.<\/p>\n

16. y\u00fczy\u0131lda in\u015fa edilen yap\u0131da k\u0131rk g\u00fcnl\u00fck inziva odas\u0131 bulunur.<\/p>\n

\"G:\\2015-07-26-\u00f6zbekistan\\Buhara\\P1050107.JPG\"<\/p>\n

Samaniler t\u00fcrbesine do\u011fru y\u00fcr\u00fcrken \u00e7ar\u015f\u0131dan ge\u00e7iyoruz. Buran\u0131n me\u015fhur el i\u015flerini ve \u015fapkalar\u0131 doppileri foto\u011frafl\u0131yoruz.<\/p>\n

\"G:\\2015-07-26-\u00f6zbekistan\\Buhara\\IMG_1443.JPG\"<\/p>\n

\"G:\\2015-07-26-\u00f6zbekistan\\Buhara\\IMG_1442.JPG\"<\/p>\n

\"G:\\2015-07-26-\u00f6zbekistan\\Buhara\\IMG_1449.JPG\"<\/p>\n

Samani T\u00fcrbesi<\/strong><\/p>\n

\"G:\\2015-07-26-\u00f6zbekistan\\Buhara\\IMG_1394.JPG\" Ark Kalesinin bat\u0131s\u0131ndaki park\u0131n i\u00e7inde bulunuyor.
\nBuras\u0131, d\u00fcnya mimarisinin se\u00e7kin \u00f6rneklerinden birisidir. T\u00fcrbe Samani hanedan\u0131 zaman\u0131nda bir aile mezarl\u0131\u011f\u0131 olarak 902-907 y\u0131llar\u0131 aras\u0131nda babas\u0131n\u0131n mezar\u0131 \u00fczerine o\u011flu \u0130smail Samani taraf\u0131ndan yapt\u0131r\u0131lm\u0131\u015ft\u0131r. Kendisi de daha sonra buraya g\u00f6m\u00fclm\u00fc\u015f.
\nEser; \u00e7\u00f6l olan b\u00f6lgede bir d\u00f6nem kumlar alt\u0131nda kald\u0131\u011f\u0131ndan Ruslar taraf\u0131ndan g\u00f6r\u00fclememi\u015f ve bombalardan kurtulmu\u015ftur. 1930-1935 y\u0131llar\u0131nda Bol\u015fevikler zaman\u0131nda ara\u015ft\u0131rmac\u0131 Rus bilim adamlar\u0131 okuduklar\u0131 eski kitaplar sayesinde t\u00fcrbenin varl\u0131\u011f\u0131ndan haberdar oluyorlar. K\u0131z\u0131l kumlar\u0131n alt\u0131nda buray\u0131 buluyor ve a\u00e7\u0131\u011fa \u00e7\u0131kar\u0131yorlar.<\/p>\n

T\u00fcrbenin sadece y\u0131k\u0131lan kubbesi restore edilmi\u015f. O y\u00fczden kubbe ve g\u00f6vdenin renkleri biraz farkl\u0131.<\/p>\n

Bir asker \u00f6rg\u00fctlenmesi \u015feklinde t\u00fcrbeyi ziyaret eden sevimli Koreli \u00f6\u011frencilerle kar\u015f\u0131la\u015f\u0131yoruz.<\/p>\n

\"G:\\2015-07-26-\u00f6zbekistan\\Buhara\\P1050114.JPG\"<\/p>\n

Samaniler t\u00fcrbesi d\u00fcz bir tasar\u0131m dehas\u0131 olarak g\u00f6sterilmektedir. Yaln\u0131zca tu\u011fla kullan\u0131lm\u0131\u015f. K\u00fc\u00e7\u00fcc\u00fck tu\u011flalarla i\u015flenmi\u015f. Orta Asya’da kurutulmu\u015f tu\u011fladan yap\u0131lan en eski bina. 40 de\u011fi\u015fik s\u00fcsleme var. \u0130\u00e7eride g\u00fcne\u015f sembol\u00fc Zerd\u00fc\u015ftl\u00fck etkilerini bu eserde de g\u00f6steriyor.<\/p>\n

\"G:\\2015-07-26-\u00f6zbekistan\\Buhara\\IMG_1403.JPG\" \"G:\\2015-07-26-\u00f6zbekistan\\Buhara\\IMG_1408.JPG\"\u00a0 Ve mimarisinde de baz\u0131 semboller var. Esere yukar\u0131dan bak\u0131ld\u0131\u011f\u0131nda yuvarlak, kare ve top bi\u00e7iminde inci g\u00f6r\u00fcn\u00fcm\u00fc mevcut. Burada yuvarlak kainat\u0131 veya g\u00f6ky\u00fcz\u00fcn\u00fc, kare d\u00fcnyay\u0131 ve 40 inci de 40 evliyay\u0131 (k\u0131rklar) simgeliyor. Bunlar\u0131n insan\u0131 korudu\u011fu s\u00f6yleniyor.<\/p>\n

Kosh Medresesi<\/strong><\/p>\n

(Otob\u00fcsle buran\u0131n \u00f6n\u00fcnden ge\u00e7tik. Gezme f\u0131rsat\u0131m\u0131z olmad\u0131. Foto\u011fraflar internetten).
\n\u201cKosh\u201d \u00e7ifte anlam\u0131na gelir. \u00c7\u00fcnk\u00fc burada \u201cModari-han\u201d ve \u201cAbdullah-han\u201d medreseleri bulunmaktad\u0131r. Yani iki bina vard\u0131r. Binalar dar sokakta kar\u015f\u0131 kar\u015f\u0131ya duruyorlar.<\/p>\n

Modari-han medresesi<\/strong><\/p>\n

\"Modari-khan<\/p>\n

Buradaki ilk medresedir. Abdulhak Han II taraf\u0131ndan annesi i\u00e7in in\u015fa ettirilmi\u015ftir. \u00dczerindeki \u00e7ini kitabeye g\u00f6re yap\u0131l\u0131\u015f tarihi 1566-1567 y\u0131llar\u0131d\u0131r. \u0130\u00e7 \u00a0avlu \u00e7evresinde \u00f6\u011frenciler ve e\u011fitmenler i\u00e7in yap\u0131lm\u0131\u015f toplant\u0131 odalar\u0131 ve bir cami\u00a0mevcut.<\/p>\n

Abdulhak Han medresesi<\/strong><\/p>\n

\"https:\/\/c1.staticflickr.com\/9\/8171\/7955293498_74ffdef4ed_z.jpg\"<\/p>\n

\u0130kinci medresedir. 1588-1590 y\u0131llar\u0131 aras\u0131nda in\u015fa edilmi\u015ftir. Orta Asya mimarisinin se\u00e7kin eserlerinden birisidir. Avlunun orta ekseni boyunca iki s\u0131ra penceresi olan geni\u015f bir salon bulunur.<\/p>\n

Registan Meydan\u0131<\/strong><\/p>\n

Ark kalesinin bat\u0131 b\u00f6l\u00fcm\u00fcnde, Arap d\u00f6neminde Registan meydan\u0131 in\u015fa edilmi\u015ftir. Burada 13. y\u00fczy\u0131ldan itibaren \u00e7e\u015fitli idari binalar ve saraylar bulunmu\u015ftur. 16.y\u00fczy\u0131lda ise ticari mekanlar yer alm\u0131\u015ft\u0131r.<\/p>\n

Registan meydan\u0131nda g\u00fcn\u00fcm\u00fcze ula\u015fan tek an\u0131t 18. y\u00fczy\u0131l yap\u0131m\u0131 Bolo-Khauz\u2019dur.<\/p>\n

Bolo-Khauz Cami<\/strong><\/p>\n

\"http:\/\/www.bura.org.tr\/haberler\/images\/BalaHavuz.JPG\" Tacik\u00e7e havuzun kar\u015f\u0131s\u0131ndaki cami demek. Emirin kalesi (Arch) bu an\u0131t\u0131n kar\u015f\u0131s\u0131nda bulunur.<\/p>\n

K\u0131\u015fl\u0131k cami k\u0131sm\u0131 Emir\u2019in e\u015fi emriyle 1712 y\u0131l\u0131nda in\u015fa edilmi\u015ftir.<\/p>\n

(Di\u011fer bir efsaneye g\u00f6re ise Emir Shakh Murat -1785-1800- taraf\u0131ndan, e\u015finin \u00f6l\u00fcm\u00fc \u00fczerine sevgi ifadesi olarak in\u015fa edilmi\u015ftir.)<\/p>\n

Yazl\u0131k eyvanlar 20. yy. ba\u015f\u0131nda yap\u0131lm\u0131\u015ft\u0131r. 1917\u2019de s\u00fcsl\u00fc tavan, ah\u015fap s\u00fctunlar, k\u00fc\u00e7\u00fck havuz ve k\u00fc\u00e7\u00fck minare Usta \u015eirin taraf\u0131ndan yap\u0131lm\u0131\u015f.<\/p>\n

\"G:\\2015-07-26-\u00f6zbekistan\\Buhara\\IMG_1481.JPG\"<\/p>\n

Caminin en dikkat \u00e7ekici k\u0131sm\u0131 ah\u015faptan yap\u0131lm\u0131\u015f 20 s\u00fctunlu eyvan dekorasyonudur.<\/p>\n

\"G:\\2015-07-26-\u00f6zbekistan\\Buhara\\IMG_1484.JPG\" Mantar \u015feklindeki sark\u0131tlar\u0131 a\u00e7\u0131k renklerle s\u00fcslenmi\u015ftir. Enine kiri\u015fler tavan\u0131 \u00e7ok renkli dikd\u00f6rtgenlere b\u00f6ler.<\/p>\n

\"G:\\2015-07-26-\u00f6zbekistan\\Buhara\\IMG_1502.JPG\"<\/p>\n

Cami; dergah stilinde 2 katl\u0131 olarak yap\u0131lm\u0131\u015f. 100-200 dervi\u015fin kalaca\u011f\u0131 kadar odas\u0131 var. Sufiler i\u00e7in 3 giri\u015f kap\u0131s\u0131 var. \u00d6n\u00fcnde bulunan k\u00fc\u00e7\u00fck minare s\u00fcs olarak kullan\u0131lm\u0131\u015f. \u00d6n\u00fcndeki havuzdan su temin etmi\u015fler. Havuz nedeni ile cami 1 metre \u00f6ne kaym\u0131\u015f. Tamirle d\u00fczeltilmi\u015f. Emir Han bu camide namaz k\u0131lm\u0131\u015f.<\/p>\n

Ark Kalesi<\/strong><\/p>\n

\u0130lk olarak d\u00f6rd\u00fcnc\u00fc y\u00fczy\u0131lda yap\u0131lm\u0131\u015f. Rivayete g\u00f6re Siyavu\u015f Han a\u015fk\u0131 i\u00e7in buray\u0131 yapt\u0131rm\u0131\u015f.<\/p>\n

\u015eehrin merkezinde yer al\u0131r. Burada eskiden saray, y\u00f6netim binalar\u0131, muhaf\u0131z odalar\u0131 ve tap\u0131nak bulunuyordu. Kale modern \u015fekline 1747-1920 y\u0131llar\u0131nda h\u00fck\u00fcm s\u00fcren Manghit hanedanl\u0131\u011f\u0131 zaman\u0131nda ula\u015fm\u0131\u015f. Bu d\u00f6nemde cami, hazine, y\u00f6netim binalar\u0131 ve cezaevi bulunuyormu\u015f.<\/p>\n

\"G:\\2015-07-26-\u00f6zbekistan\\Buhara\\IMG_1506.JPG\"<\/p>\n

B\u00fcy\u00fck giri\u015f kap\u0131s\u0131 Registan Meydan\u0131’na bak\u0131yor. Heybetli kap\u0131 bir \u00fcst t\u00fcnel ile ba\u011flanm\u0131\u015f iki kule ile desteklenmi\u015ftir. Ge\u00e7mi\u015fte kap\u0131n\u0131n \u00fcst\u00fcnde k\u0131rba\u00e7 as\u0131l\u0131 imi\u015f. Emirin g\u00fcc\u00fcn\u00fc temsil ediyor. 1920 y\u0131l\u0131nda K\u0131z\u0131l Ordunun top\u00e7u ate\u015fi ve hava sald\u0131r\u0131lar\u0131 ile y\u0131k\u0131lm\u0131\u015f. Sadece cami ve Emir\u2019in kabri kalm\u0131\u015f.<\/p>\n

\"G:\\2015-07-26-\u00f6zbekistan\\Buhara\\IMG_1517.JPG\"<\/p>\n

Zindan<\/strong><\/p>\n

Ark kalesisin giri\u015finde sa\u011fl\u0131 sollu yakla\u015f\u0131k 10 metre uzunlu\u011funda 8 metre derinlikte \u00e7ukurlardan olu\u015fuyor. \u0130\u00e7ine y\u0131lan, akrep koyuyorlarm\u0131\u015f. Mahkumlar burada bir ay tutulduktan sonra Registan meydan\u0131nda Emir\u2019e sunuluyormu\u015f. Emir mahkumun \u00f6l\u00fcm ya da aff\u0131na karar veriyormu\u015f.<\/p>\n

Kabulhane<\/strong><\/p>\n

Avlunun bir kenar\u0131nda Emir\u2019in taht\u0131 var.<\/p>\n

\"G:\\2015-07-26-\u00f6zbekistan\\Buhara\\IMG_1520.JPG\"<\/p>\n

Ark Kalesinde; \u015fu anda bunlara ilaveten Tarih M\u00fczesi ve Buhara Emirli\u011fi M\u00fczesi bulunuyor.\"G:\\2015-07-26-\u00f6zbekistan\\Buhara\\IMG_1522.JPG\"<\/p>\n

Bu Koreli \u00f6\u011frenci grupla ilk olarak sabah Samaniler t\u00fcrbesinde kar\u015f\u0131la\u015ft\u0131k. Sonra bir\u00e7ok yerde \u00e7ak\u0131\u015ft\u0131k. \u0130ki otob\u00fcs gelmi\u015fler. O kadar organize ve disiplinlilerdi ki hayran kalmamak m\u00fcmk\u00fcn de\u011fil. Bir ara caddeden ge\u00e7erken bir tanesi trafik polisi gibi arabalar\u0131 durdurdu ve arkada\u015flar\u0131n\u0131n ge\u00e7i\u015fini sa\u011flad\u0131.<\/p>\n

\"G:\\2015-07-26-\u00f6zbekistan\\Buhara\\IMG_1527.JPG\"<\/p>\n

\u015eehrin bir\u00e7ok yerinde yurt, millet ve \u00f6zg\u00fcrl\u00fc\u011f\u00fc \u00f6ven tabelalar mevcut.\"G:\\2015-07-26-\u00f6zbekistan\\Buhara\\IMG_1528.JPG\"<\/p>\n

Poi-Kalyon Kompleksi<\/strong><\/p>\n

Bunun kelime anlam\u0131 \u201cB\u00fcy\u00fck kaide\u201d demektir. Kompleks 4 an\u0131ttan olu\u015fmaktad\u0131r:<\/p>\n

Kalyan camisi ve Miri-Arap Medresesinin cepheleri birbirine kar\u015f\u0131d\u0131r.<\/p>\n

Aralar\u0131nda ise Kalyan minaresi bulunur.<\/p>\n

Miri-Arap medresesinin g\u00fcneyinde k\u00fc\u00e7\u00fck Amir Alim Han medresesi vard\u0131r.<\/p>\n

\"G:\\2015-07-26-\u00f6zbekistan\\Buhara\\IMG_1530.JPG\"<\/p>\n

Solda Miri Arap Cami, ortada Kalyan minare ve sa\u011fda Kalyan cami.<\/p>\n

Kalyan Minare<\/strong><\/p>\n

\"G:\\2015-07-26-\u00f6zbekistan\\Buhara\\IMG_1606.JPG\" Kutsal Buhara\u2019n\u0131n sembol\u00fcd\u00fcr. Bin y\u0131l boyunca bu kutsal minare; hakim \u015fehir Buhara\u2019da \u0130slam inanc\u0131n\u0131n b\u00fcy\u00fckl\u00fc\u011f\u00fcn\u00fcn g\u00f6stergesi olmu\u015ftur. Minarenin ete\u011fi Buhara\u2019n\u0131n dinsel toplulu\u011funun (Poi Kalyan) merkezinde yer al\u0131r. Orta\u00e7a\u011fda Buharal\u0131 tarih\u00e7i yazar Muhammed Narshakki\u2019ye g\u00f6re 12. y\u00fczy\u0131l\u0131n ilk d\u00f6nemlerinde Buhara h\u00fck\u00fcmdar\u0131 Arslan han taraf\u0131ndan yapt\u0131r\u0131lm\u0131\u015ft\u0131r. Minare in\u015fa edildi\u011finde Orta Asya\u2019n\u0131n en y\u00fcksek minaresiymi\u015f. Ancak bir minare in\u015fa ettirmek i\u00e7in yap\u0131lan ilk giri\u015fim ba\u015far\u0131s\u0131z olmu\u015f. \u015eehrin alt\u0131ndaki bir\u00e7ok k\u00fclt\u00fcrel katmanlara ve yumu\u015fak zemine dikkat edilmemesi nedeniyle minare cami \u00fczerine \u00e7\u00f6km\u00fc\u015f. Yerine daha dayan\u0131kl\u0131s\u0131 1127-1129 y\u0131llar\u0131 aras\u0131nda in\u015fa edilmi\u015f. Bu 45,6 metre y\u00fckseklikteki minare m\u00fchendislik ve mimari harikas\u0131 olarak kusursuz bir \u00f6rnek kabul edilir. Pi\u015fmi\u015f tu\u011fla ve onun \u00fcst\u00fcnde kal\u0131n tabandan daralarak y\u00fckselen yekpare dairesel bir kule \u015feklindedir. Tabanda 9 metre, tepede 6 metre \u00e7aptad\u0131r. Minarenin temeli 10 metre a\u015fa\u011f\u0131ya kadar uzan\u0131r. Tepesine spiral \u015feklindeki 104 adet merdiven ile \u00e7\u0131k\u0131l\u0131yor.\u00a0 Minarenin g\u00f6vdesi tu\u011fladan yap\u0131lm\u0131\u015f ve dar s\u00fcs dizeleriyle \u00e7evrilmi\u015ftir. \u015eerit \u015feklinde kabartmal\u0131 s\u00fcslemeler (friz), o zamanlar Buhara mimari dekorlar\u0131nda yayg\u0131n olarak kullan\u0131lan mavi s\u0131r ile kapl\u0131d\u0131r. Turkuaz \u00e7inili yaz\u0131tta \u201cArslan Han\u201d ismi\u00a0yaz\u0131l\u0131.<\/p>\n

Minare, ku\u015fatma ve sava\u015f zamanlar\u0131nda ayn\u0131 zamanda bir g\u00f6zetleme kulesi olarak da kullan\u0131lm\u0131\u015ft\u0131r.<\/p>\n

\u015eehre gelen kervanlar\u0131n yollar\u0131n\u0131 kolay bulmas\u0131 i\u00e7in minarenin tepesinde geceleri ate\u015f yak\u0131l\u0131rm\u0131\u015f.<\/p>\n

1923 y\u0131l\u0131ndaki restorasyon s\u0131ras\u0131nda buras\u0131 geometrik mozaiklerle s\u00fcslenmi\u015ftir. 1976 y\u0131l\u0131ndaki depremden sonra 1980 y\u0131l\u0131nda yeniden in\u015fa edilmi\u015ftir<\/p>\n

Minareden yandaki camiye ge\u00e7i\u015f var.<\/p>\n

Kalyan Cami<\/strong><\/p>\n

Arkeolojik ara\u015ft\u0131rmalara g\u00f6re, burada Arap komutan\u0131 Kutebbiye Bin M\u00fcsl\u00fcm taraf\u0131ndan 713 y\u0131l\u0131nda bir pagan tap\u0131na\u011f\u0131 yerine \u015fehrin ilk Cuma camisi yap\u0131lm\u0131\u015ft\u0131r. Cuma camisi yap\u0131ld\u0131ktan sonra minare yap\u0131m\u0131na ge\u00e7ilmi\u015f, ancak minare caminin \u00fczerine y\u0131k\u0131lm\u0131\u015f ve camiyi tahrip etmi\u015ftir.<\/p>\n

\"G:\\2015-07-26-\u00f6zbekistan\\Buhara\\IMG_1555.JPG\" Bunun \u00fczerine 1121 y\u0131l\u0131nda Karahanl\u0131lar taraf\u0131ndan buraya yeniden bir cami yap\u0131lm\u0131\u015f, ancak bu da Mo\u011fol istilas\u0131 s\u0131ras\u0131nda tahrip edilmi\u015ftir.<\/p>\n

Bir rivayete g\u00f6re de Mo\u011follar bu camiye dokunmam\u0131\u015flar. \u015e\u00f6yle ki: 13. yy.da Cengiz Han sava\u015farak buraya geliyor. At\u0131n \u00fcst\u00fcnde camiye giriyor. \u00c7\u0131karken Kalyan Minareyi g\u00f6r\u00fcyor. Kafas\u0131n\u0131 kald\u0131r\u0131nca \u015fapkas\u0131 yere d\u00fc\u015f\u00fcyor. \u015eapkay\u0131 al\u0131rken attan d\u00fc\u015f\u00fcyor. Askerler bu sahneyi g\u00f6r\u00fcnce Cengiz Han minareye sayg\u0131 g\u00f6steriyor diye onlar da atlar\u0131ndan inip e\u011filiyorlar. Cengiz Han da bu nedenle bu yap\u0131ya dokunmuyor.<\/p>\n

G\u00fcn\u00fcm\u00fczde g\u00f6r\u00fclen cami ise, 1514 y\u0131l\u0131nda \u015eeybaniler zaman\u0131nda yap\u0131lm\u0131\u015ft\u0131r. 20. y\u00fczy\u0131l ba\u015flar\u0131nda Buharal\u0131 usta Shirin Muradov, caminin onar\u0131m \u00e7al\u0131\u015fmalar\u0131na kat\u0131lm\u0131\u015f.<\/p>\n

Cami Semerkant\u2019taki \u201cBibi Han\u0131m Camisi\u201d ile ayn\u0131 \u00f6l\u00e7ektedir. Cami 12.000 ki\u015fi kapasitelidir.<\/p>\n

Cami dikd\u00f6rtgen planl\u0131 ve kap\u0131larla s\u00fcslenmi\u015f geleneksel 4 eyvanl\u0131d\u0131r. S\u00fctun ve kemerler \u0131\u015f\u0131k ve g\u00f6lge oyunlar\u0131 meydana getiriyor. Caminin en \u00f6nemli yap\u0131s\u0131 avlunun do\u011fu k\u0131sm\u0131nda bulunan mavi b\u00fcy\u00fck yekpare kubbesidir. Eskiden leylekler burada yuva yaparlarm\u0131\u015f. 1920-30\u2019larda \u015fehirdeki batakl\u0131\u011f\u0131n kurutulmas\u0131ndan sonra g\u00f6r\u00fclmemi\u015fler.<\/p>\n

\"G:\\2015-07-26-\u00f6zbekistan\\Buhara\\IMG_1565.JPG\" Caminin 1970\u2019lerdeki restorasyonunda s\u0131rl\u0131 \u00e7ini ve mozaik kullan\u0131lm\u0131\u015ft\u0131r. Avluda sekizgen \u015fad\u0131rvan benzeri bir yap\u0131 bulunuyor. Semerkant\u2019taki \u015eah-\u0131 Zinde t\u00fcrbesine benziyor. Minber olarak da kullan\u0131labiliyormu\u015f.<\/p>\n

Miri Arap Medresesi<\/strong><\/p>\n

\"G:\\2015-07-26-\u00f6zbekistan\\Buhara\\IMG_1616.JPG\"<\/strong>
\nUbeydullah Han’\u0131n yapt\u0131rd\u0131\u011f\u0131 medrese, Mir-i Arab Medresesi diye an\u0131l\u0131yor.<\/p>\n

Mir-\u0131 Arab, rivayete g\u00f6re Abdullah isimli bir Yemen \u015fehzadesi ve Hz. Peygamberin onbirinci ku\u015faktan torunu. R\u00fcyas\u0131nda Peygamberimizi g\u00f6r\u00fcyor ve O’nun i\u015fareti \u00fczerine tac\u0131 taht\u0131 b\u0131rak\u0131p tasavvuf yoluna girmek \u00fczere buralara geliyor. Mir-i Arab’a b\u00fcy\u00fck h\u00fcrmet g\u00f6steren Buhara emirleri, arzusu \u00fczerine onun ad\u0131na, bu medreseyi yapt\u0131r\u0131yorlar. Ubeydullah Han, k\u00fclliye i\u00e7indeki t\u00fcrbesinde Mir-i Arab’\u0131n ayak ucunda yat\u0131yor. Bu medrese, y\u00fczelliyi a\u015fk\u0131n talebesiyle faaliyetini s\u00fcrd\u00fcrmekte. Kur’an-\u0131 Kerim\u2019deki sure say\u0131s\u0131ndan esinlenerek y\u00fcz on d\u00f6rt h\u00fccrede ders yap\u0131l\u0131yor. D\u00f6rt y\u0131l s\u00fcren yat\u0131l\u0131 e\u011fitimiyle lise muadili bir medrese. B\u00fct\u00fcn \u00d6zbekistan’\u0131n en b\u00fcy\u00fck imamlar\u0131 Mir-i Arap k\u00f6kenli. \u015eu anda \u0130slam Koleji. Ancak buras\u0131 tadilattayd\u0131. \u0130\u00e7ini gezme imkan\u0131 bulamasak da grup olarak \u00f6n\u00fcnde foto\u011fraf \u00e7ektirdik. \u0130ki turkuaz kubbesi ile buran\u0131n karakteristik bir medresesi idi.<\/p>\n

\"G:\\2015-07-26-\u00f6zbekistan\\Buhara\\IMG_1611.JPG\"<\/p>\n

Poi Kalyan ziyaretinden sonra buraya \u00e7ok yak\u0131n ve Buhara\u2019n\u0131n en b\u00fcy\u00fck hal\u0131c\u0131 ma\u011fazas\u0131na gidiyoruz. Buhara hal\u0131lar\u0131 me\u015fhur.<\/p>\n

\"G:\\2015-07-26-\u00f6zbekistan\\Buhara\\P1050133.JPG\" Ma\u011faza sahibinin k\u0131z\u0131 Sabina \u0130ngilizce olarak bize hal\u0131lar\u0131 tan\u0131t\u0131yor. Bu g\u00fczel ve cilveli k\u0131z\u0131n yapt\u0131\u011f\u0131 \u015fovu seyrederken a\u011fz\u0131m\u0131z a\u00e7\u0131k kal\u0131yor. \u00c7ok zeki bir k\u0131z. Bize, daha \u00f6nce sat\u0131\u015f yaparken ya\u015fad\u0131\u011f\u0131 maceralardan da bahsediyor. Fiyatlar\u0131 y\u00fcksek bulup al\u0131\u015f-veri\u015f yapmadan \u00e7\u0131k\u0131yoruz.<\/p>\n

Serbest zamanda \u015fehri biraz geziyoruz. Leb-i Havuz yak\u0131nlar\u0131nda bir kafeye oturuyoruz.<\/p>\n

\"G:\\2015-07-26-\u00f6zbekistan\\Buhara\\IMG_1661.JPG\"<\/p>\n

Sonra \u015fehirde hal\u0131c\u0131lar\u0131 dola\u015f\u0131yoruz. \u00c7ar\u015f\u0131da gezerken iki delikanl\u0131 bizi hal\u0131 i\u00e7in bir yere g\u00f6t\u00fcr\u00fcyor. Han gibi bir yerin avlusuna giriyoruz. Kap\u0131lar\u0131 kapat\u0131yorlar. Pazarl\u0131k pazarl\u0131k, al takke ver k\u00fclah 700 dolara ipek seccade bir hal\u0131 al\u0131yoruz.<\/p>\n

Ak\u015fam yeme\u011fini Leb-i Havuz kenar\u0131ndaki restoranda yiyoruz. Canl\u0131 m\u00fczik ve havuz manzaras\u0131 e\u015fli\u011finde kuzu etinden yap\u0131lm\u0131\u015f l\u00fcle kebab\u0131m\u0131z\u0131 yiyoruz. Ak\u015fam havuzdaki f\u0131skiyeler \u00e7al\u0131\u015f\u0131yor. \u00c7evredeki medreseler de ayd\u0131nlat\u0131lm\u0131\u015f. \u00c7ok g\u00fczel bir atmosfer var. Biz buralar\u0131 \u00e7ook sevdik.<\/p>\n

\"G:\\2015-07-26-\u00f6zbekistan\\Buhara\\IMG_1671.JPG\"<\/p>\n

\"G:\\2015-07-26-\u00f6zbekistan\\Buhara\\IMG_1674.JPG\"<\/p>\n

Gece yemekten sonra yo\u011fun istek \u00fczerine yine b\u00fcy\u00fck hal\u0131c\u0131ya gidiyoruz. 24 saat a\u00e7\u0131\u011f\u0131z demi\u015flerdi. Gecenin bir vakti Sabina\u2019y\u0131 \u00e7a\u011f\u0131rt\u0131r\u0131yoruz. Bizi g\u00f6r\u00fcr g\u00f6rmez \u201csiz iki \u00e7ocuktan hal\u0131 alm\u0131\u015fs\u0131n\u0131z\u201d diyor. Kapal\u0131 kap\u0131lar ard\u0131nda yapt\u0131\u011f\u0131m\u0131z al\u0131\u015f-veri\u015fin bu \u015fekilde Sabina taraf\u0131ndan bilinmesine \u015fa\u015f\u0131r\u0131p kal\u0131yoruz. \u201cAma orada daha ucuzdu\u201d diyor arkada\u015flar. Sabina yine \u015fovuna ba\u015fl\u0131yor ve: o \u00e7irkin ve \u015fi\u015fman adamlar yerine benim gibi g\u00fczel ve ak\u0131ll\u0131 bir k\u0131zdan alsayd\u0131n\u0131z bir bedeli olurdu tabii\u201d diyor. Baya\u011f\u0131 bir sohbet ediyoruz. Hayat dersi al\u0131yoruz. Yine ba\u015f\u0131ndan ge\u00e7en maceralar\u0131 anlat\u0131yor bize. Sabina bu \u015fehirdeki son an\u0131 olarak kal\u0131yor haf\u0131zalar\u0131m\u0131zda.<\/p>\n

6. G\u00fcn: 29 temmuz 2015 \u00c7ar\u015famba: Semerkant yolunda<\/strong><\/p>\n

Kahvalt\u0131n\u0131n ard\u0131ndan Semerkant’a do\u011fru yola koyuluyoruz. Yolda u\u011frayaca\u011f\u0131m\u0131z birka\u00e7 yer var.<\/p>\n

G\u00fccdevani Abide Kompleksi<\/strong><\/p>\n

Buhara bir\u00e7ok \u0130slami k\u00fclt\u00fcr\u00fcn b\u00fcy\u00fck alimlerini yeti\u015ftirmi\u015ftir. Bunlardan biri olan\u00a0Abd\u00fclhal\u0131k G\u00fccdevani, Orta Asya’da Nak\u015f\u0131bendi tarikat\u0131na mensup din bilginlerinden birisidir. Buhara’ya 50km mesafedeki G\u00fccdevan (Gijdevan) kasabas\u0131nda do\u011fmu\u015ftur. 1119 y\u0131l\u0131nda vefat etmi\u015ftir.<\/p>\n

\"G:\\2015-07-26-\u00f6zbekistan\\Buhara\\IMG_1706.JPG\"<\/p>\n

\"G:\\2015-07-26-\u00f6zbekistan\\Buhara\\IMG_1688.JPG\"<\/p>\n

Yolda giderken bir restoranda mola verip \u00f6\u011flen yeme\u011fimizi yiyoruz. Lezzetli ama bir o kadar ya\u011fl\u0131 yemeklerin ard\u0131ndan pide, peynir, domates, karpuzdan olu\u015fan men\u00fcm\u00fcz \u00a0pek hafif ve g\u00fczel geliyor.<\/p>\n

\"G:\\2015-07-26-\u00f6zbekistan\\Buhara\\20150729_135559.jpg\" \"G:\\2015-07-26-\u00f6zbekistan\\Buhara\\20150729_134631.jpg\"<\/p>\n

Buhari T\u00fcrbesi<\/strong><\/p>\n

Semerkant\u2019a varmaya 20 km kala Buhari t\u00fcrbesini ziyaret ediyoruz.<\/p>\n

BUHAR\u0130 (810-869)<\/strong><\/p>\n

En b\u00fcy\u00fck hadis alimi olarak kabul edilir. Buhara\u2019da 810 y\u0131l\u0131nda do\u011fmu\u015ftur.
\nBabas\u0131n\u0131 k\u00fc\u00e7\u00fck ya\u015fta yitiren Buhari, ilk e\u011fitimini Buhara\u2019da yapt\u0131. Babas\u0131ndan kalan servet O’nun hi\u00e7 kimseye muhta\u00e7 olmadan ilim \u00f6\u011frenmesini sa\u011flad\u0131. \u0130lim i\u00e7in Mekke’ye gitti. E\u011fitimini tamamlad\u0131ktan sonra Buhara’ya d\u00f6nerek ders vermeye ba\u015flad\u0131.<\/p>\n

\"G:\\2015-07-26-\u00f6zbekistan\\Semerkand\\IMG_1737.JPG\"<\/p>\n

\"G:\\2015-07-26-\u00f6zbekistan\\Semerkand\\IMG_1717.JPG\" Bildirildi\u011fine g\u00f6re, d\u00f6nemin Buhara Valisi, \u0130mam-\u0131 Buhari\u2019den \u00e7ocuklar\u0131na \u00f6zel hadis dersi vermesini istedi. Bu iste\u011fe kar\u015f\u0131 \u00e7\u0131kt\u0131\u011f\u0131 i\u00e7in vali ile Buhari\u2019nin aras\u0131 a\u00e7\u0131ld\u0131. Olay\u0131 duyan Semerkantl\u0131’lar kendisini davet ederek derslerini \u015fehirlerinde vermesini istediler.
\n\u0130mam-\u0131 Buhari, yola \u00e7\u0131kt\u0131\u011f\u0131nda bir k\u0131s\u0131m Semerkantl\u0131’n\u0131n kendisini istemedi\u011fini \u00f6\u011frendi. O da Semerkant\u2019a gitmeden Harkent k\u00f6y\u00fcne d\u00f6nd\u00fc.<\/p>\n

Bir ay kadar Harkent\u2019te kalan Buhari, 870 y\u0131l\u0131nda Ramazan Bayram\u0131 gecesi vefat etti.<\/p>\n

16. yy.da mezar\u0131n \u00fczerine k\u00fc\u00e7\u00fck bir an\u0131t mezar ve cami yap\u0131l\u0131yor. 1998\u2019de ise geni\u015fletilmi\u015f bir hat\u0131ra kompleksi yap\u0131yorlar.<\/p>\n

\u00d6zbekler t\u00fcrbeleri bo\u015f b\u0131rakm\u0131yorlar ve duaya geliyorlar.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

4. G\u00fcn: 27 Temmuz 2015 Pazartesi: Buhara Sabah 8 gibi Hiva’dan otob\u00fcslere binip Urgen\u00e7 havaalan\u0131na do\u011fru yol al\u0131yoruz. Urgen\u00e7\u2019in ad\u0131 eskiden G\u00fcrgen\u00e7mi\u015f. G\u00fcrleyen gen\u00e7 anlam\u0131nda.\u00a0Urgen\u00e7\u2019den 10\u2019da Buhara\u2019ya u\u00e7uyoruz. 11:20\u2019de de bizi \u015fehre g\u00f6t\u00fcren otob\u00fcs\u00fcm\u00fcze binmi\u015f durumday\u0131z.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":623,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[41,2],"tags":[42,43,92,3,93,91,5,6,11,7,8,12,9,10],"class_list":["post-452","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-buhara","category-ozbekistan","tag-buharada-gorulecek-yerler","tag-buharada-unlu-yapilar","tag-chor-minor","tag-gezi","tag-leb-i-havuz","tag-magoki-attar","tag-medrese","tag-orta-asya","tag-ozbekistan","tag-seyahat","tag-tarih","tag-timur","tag-turk-cumhuriyetleri","tag-yemek"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.yeryuzundebirkacadim.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/452","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.yeryuzundebirkacadim.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.yeryuzundebirkacadim.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.yeryuzundebirkacadim.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.yeryuzundebirkacadim.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=452"}],"version-history":[{"count":18,"href":"https:\/\/www.yeryuzundebirkacadim.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/452\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":1418,"href":"https:\/\/www.yeryuzundebirkacadim.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/452\/revisions\/1418"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.yeryuzundebirkacadim.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/623"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.yeryuzundebirkacadim.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=452"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.yeryuzundebirkacadim.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=452"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.yeryuzundebirkacadim.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=452"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}