{"id":3487,"date":"2020-05-01T14:45:57","date_gmt":"2020-05-01T11:45:57","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.yeryuzundebirkacadim.com\/?p=3487"},"modified":"2024-08-19T13:56:25","modified_gmt":"2024-08-19T10:56:25","slug":"fez","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.yeryuzundebirkacadim.com\/index.php\/2020\/05\/01\/fez\/","title":{"rendered":"Fez"},"content":{"rendered":"

2. G\u00fcn\u00a016 Eyl\u00fcl 2018 Pazar (Devam)<\/strong><\/p>\n

Fez d\u00fcnyan\u0131n en b\u00fcy\u00fck ve en korunmu\u015f Orta\u00e7a\u011f \u0130slam kentlerinden biridir. \u00d6zbekistan’da Hiva, \u0130ran’da Yezd ne ise Fas’ta da Fez odur. Fez; 1981 y\u0131l\u0131nda Unesco D\u00fcnya Miras Alan\u0131 olarak kabul edilmi\u015f.<\/p>\n

<\/p>\n

M.S. 808’de Fas H\u00fck\u00fcmdar\u0131 II. \u0130dris taraf\u0131ndan kurulmu\u015f bir \u015fehirdir. Ba\u015fkentli\u011finin yan\u0131 s\u0131ra manevi bir merkez olmu\u015ftur.<\/p>\n

Y\u00fczy\u0131llar boyunca \u015fairleri, m\u00fczisyenleri ve entellekt\u00fcelleri kendine \u00e7ekmi\u015ftir. Tunus do\u011fumlu tarih\u00e7i, d\u00fc\u015f\u00fcn\u00fcr \u0130bn Haldun ile sonralar\u0131 M\u0131s\u0131r’da Selahaddin Eyyubi’nin saray\u0131nda hizmet veren End\u00fcl\u00fcsl\u00fc Yahudi filozof ve doktor \u0130bn Meymun bunlar aras\u0131ndad\u0131r.<\/p>\n

Hanedanl\u0131k ba\u015fkentlerinin en eskisi olan Fez; 3 ayr\u0131 b\u00f6lgeden olu\u015fuyor. 8. y\u00fczy\u0131lda II. \u0130dris (Arap) taraf\u0131ndan kurulan Fes el Bali (Eski Fez), bundan 500 y\u0131l sonra Meriniler’in (Berberi) eski \u015fehir duvarlar\u0131n\u0131n d\u0131\u015f\u0131na kurdu\u011fu Ma\u011fribi tarz\u0131 Fes el Cedid (Yeni Fez) ve 20. y\u00fczy\u0131lda Frans\u0131zlar’\u0131n kurdu\u011fu modern Ville Nouvelle.<\/p>\n

Fes el Bali<\/strong><\/p>\n

Fes el Bali (Eski Fez) olarak an\u0131lan surlarla \u00e7evrili eski kent, End\u00fcl\u00fcs Emevi d\u00f6neminin \u0130slam mimarisinin ve el sanatlar\u0131n\u0131n g\u00fczel \u00f6rneklerini i\u00e7erir. Bunlar\u0131n \u00e7o\u011fu End\u00fcl\u00fcs’\u00fcn Hr\u0131stiyanlar taraf\u0131ndan fethedilmesiyle g\u00fcney \u0130spanya’dan ka\u00e7an zanaatkarlar\u0131n eseridir. Fas halk\u0131n\u0131n ya\u015fant\u0131s\u0131n\u0131 ve k\u00fclt\u00fcr\u00fcn\u00fc anlamak i\u00e7in en do\u011fru adres buras\u0131d\u0131r.<\/p>\n

Mavi Kap\u0131 (Bab Bou Jeloud)<\/strong><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

Medina’n\u0131n ana giri\u015f kap\u0131s\u0131 Bab Bou jeloud, 1913’te Frans\u0131zlar taraf\u0131ndan yap\u0131lm\u0131\u015f. \u00dc\u00e7 simetrik kemerli kap\u0131n\u0131n d\u0131\u015f taraf\u0131 mavi, Medina taraf\u0131 ise ye\u015fil renkte End\u00fcl\u00fcs tarz\u0131 mozaikler ile s\u00fcsl\u00fc. Biti\u015fi\u011finde 12. y\u00fczy\u0131ldan kalma ilk kap\u0131n\u0131n kal\u0131nt\u0131lar\u0131 var.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

Mavi Kap\u0131’dan Eski Fez’e (Fez Medinas\u0131) girer girmez \u00a0ye\u015fil \u00e7inili s\u00fcslemeleri ile \u015fehrin en zarif minaresi kabul edilen Ebu \u0130nan Medresesi Minaresi g\u00f6r\u00fcl\u00fcyor.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

Fes el Bali; baz\u0131lar\u0131ndan ancak bir ki\u015finin ge\u00e7ebildi\u011fi 9500 kadar dar sokaktan olu\u015fuyor. \u0130\u00e7eriye araba girmedi\u011fi i\u00e7in ta\u015f\u0131mac\u0131l\u0131kta e\u015fekler ve el arabas\u0131 kullan\u0131l\u0131yor.<\/p>\n

Kalabal\u0131\u011f\u0131n, g\u00fcr\u00fclt\u00fcn\u00fcn, baharat ve deri kokular\u0131n\u0131n hakim oldu\u011fu, her an \u00f6n\u00fcn\u00fczde arkan\u0131zda bir e\u015fe\u011fe denk gelme ihtimalinizin oldu\u011fu tarihi bir film setindesiniz sanki.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

Ebu \u0130nan Medresesi (Bou \u0130naniye)<\/strong><\/p>\n

UNESCO D\u00fcnya K\u00fclt\u00fcr Miras\u0131 listesinde yer al\u0131yor.<\/span><\/p>\n

14. Y\u00fczy\u0131lda Merini Sultan\u0131 taraf\u0131ndan Karaviyyin camisine rakip olarak\u00a0 yapt\u0131r\u0131l\u0131yor. Medrese tamamlanmas\u0131n\u0131n ard\u0131ndan dini e\u011fitimin yan\u0131 s\u0131ra ibadet i\u00e7in de kullan\u0131lm\u0131\u015f.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

Avluya, End\u00fcl\u00fcs tarz\u0131nda at nal\u0131 kemerler ile ula\u015f\u0131l\u0131yor. Dikd\u00f6rtgen formdaki mermer avlunun merkezinde ise bir havuza yer verilmi\u015ftir. Ayr\u0131ca avluda cami k\u0131sm\u0131na kadar uzanan bir su kanal\u0131 vard\u0131r.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

Avlunun \u00fc\u00e7 taraf\u0131ndan \u00f6\u011frencilerin kald\u0131klar\u0131 odalara ge\u00e7i\u015fler yer al\u0131r.<\/p>\n

Sedir a\u011fac\u0131 oymalar\u0131, zellij mozaikler ve al\u00e7\u0131 s\u00fcslemeleri usta zanaatkarlar\u0131n elinden \u00e7\u0131km\u0131\u015f bir medresedir.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/h5>\n

Yap\u0131y\u0131 di\u011fer medreselerden ay\u0131ran en b\u00fcy\u00fck \u00f6zelli\u011fi, ibadet b\u00f6l\u00fcm\u00fcn\u00fcn minberi ve mihrab\u0131yla tam bir cami olmas\u0131.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

\u015eehirde M\u00fcsl\u00fcman olmayan ziyaret\u00e7ilere giri\u015f izni verilen az say\u0131daki \u0130slami yap\u0131dan bir tanesi olan medresenin bu b\u00f6l\u00fcm\u00fcne gayrim\u00fcslimlerin girmesi yasakt\u0131r.<\/p>\n

Dar el-Magana<\/strong><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/strong><\/p>\n

Ebu \u0130nan Medresesi’nden \u00e7\u0131kt\u0131ktan sonra hemen kar\u015f\u0131da \u00fczerinde hidrolik bir saatin oldu\u011fu Dar al-Magana <\/strong>bulunuyor.\u00a0Saat; 13 pencere ve pirin\u00e7 kase ta\u015f\u0131yan platformlardan olu\u015fmakta iken 2004’te kaseler \u00e7\u0131kar\u0131lm\u0131\u015f. Rivayete g\u00f6re \u00e7al\u0131\u015fma mekanizmas\u0131 da tam anlam\u0131yla \u00e7\u00f6z\u00fclememi\u015f \ud83d\ude42<\/span><\/p>\n

Tabakhaneler (Chouara Tanneries)<\/strong><\/p>\n

Fez deri ve tabakhaneleri ile \u00fcnl\u00fcd\u00fcr. Halen eski geleneksel y\u00f6ntemlerle deriler i\u015fleniyor ve boyan\u0131yor.<\/p>\n

Tesis \u00e7evresine de k\u00f6t\u00fc bir koku yay\u0131l\u0131yor haliyle. Ama ba\u015fta formaldehit olmak \u00fczere bilumum laboratuvar kokular\u0131na al\u0131\u015f\u0131k olan burnum \u00e7ok da yad\u0131rgam\u0131yor bu kokuyu \ud83d\ude42<\/p>\n

\u015eehirdeki en b\u00fcy\u00fck 3 tabakhanenin en b\u00fcy\u00fc\u011f\u00fc olan Chouara Tabakhanesi’ne gidiyoruz. \u00dcst kata \u00e7\u0131k\u0131p boyalarla dolu bu b\u00fcy\u00fck kazanlar\u0131 seyrediyor ve foto\u011frafl\u0131yoruz.<\/p>\n

\"\" \"\"<\/p>\n

Nejjarin Kervansaray\u0131 (Marangozlar Han\u0131) Ah\u015fap Sanatlar\u0131 M\u00fczesi<\/strong><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

Nejjarin Meydan\u0131<\/strong>‘nda bulunan bina, 18. y\u00fczy\u0131lda t\u00fcccarlar ve \u015fehre gelen ziyaret\u00e7iler taraf\u0131ndan kullan\u0131lmak \u00fczere in\u015fa edilmi\u015f. G\u00fcn\u00fcm\u00fczde “Ah\u015fap Sanatlar\u0131 M\u00fczesi. Biz i\u00e7eri girmedik.<\/span><\/p>\n

Nejarrin \u00c7e\u015fmesi<\/strong><\/p>\n

\u015eehirdeki geleneksel mimariyi yans\u0131tan \u00e7ok say\u0131daki \u00e7e\u015fmeden biri. Ah\u015fap tenteli \u00e7e\u015fmede, \u00e7ok renkli zellij mozaikler ile s\u00fcsl\u00fc \u00f6n b\u00f6l\u00fcm\u00fcn etraf\u0131nda oyma i\u015f\u00e7ilikli al\u00e7\u0131 yer al\u0131yor.<\/p>\n

Karaviyyin Cami ve \u00dcniversitesi Kompleksi<\/strong><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

\u015eehhrin en b\u00fcy\u00fck camisi. Tunus’tan iltica eden Fatima al-Fihri ad\u0131nda zengin bir<\/span> kad\u0131n taraf\u0131ndan 9. y\u00fczy\u0131lda yapt\u0131r\u0131lm\u0131\u015f. 10.-12. y\u00fczy\u0131lda geni\u015flemi\u015f ve d\u00fcnyan\u0131n ilk \u00fcniversitesi olmu\u015f. 1956’dan sonra \u0130lahiyat d\u0131\u015f\u0131ndaki b\u00f6l\u00fcmler Rabat’a ta\u015f\u0131nm\u0131\u015f.<\/p>\n

Camiye sadece ibadet i\u00e7in girilebiliyor. Yine de gruptaki erkekler girip foto\u011fraflayabildi.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

Kraliyet Saray\u0131 (Dar el Mahzen)<\/strong><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/h2>\n

17. y\u00fczy\u0131lda yap\u0131lm\u0131\u015ft\u0131r. <\/span><\/p>\n

Kenti ziyaret ettiklerinde kraliyet ailesi burada kald\u0131\u011f\u0131 i\u00e7in i\u00e7 mekan halka a\u00e7\u0131k de\u011fildir.<\/span>\u00a0Devasa pirin\u00e7 ve alt\u0131n kap\u0131lar ve g\u00f6rkemli zellij \u00e7inileriler bu yap\u0131n\u0131n karakteristik \u00f6zelli\u011fi.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

Art\u0131k otele (Sofia Hotel) d\u00f6n\u00fcyoruz.<\/p>\n

3. G\u00fcn 17 Eyl\u00fcl 2018 Pazartesi<\/strong><\/p>\n

Bug\u00fcn turun \u015eaf\u015favan gezisi var. Ama mavi \u015fehir olarak Rabat’ta Kasbah Udaya’y\u0131 g\u00f6rd\u00fc\u011f\u00fcm\u00fcz i\u00e7in k\u00fc\u00e7\u00fck grubumuzla bu tura kat\u0131lmay\u0131p Fez’in tad\u0131n\u0131 \u00e7\u0131karmak istiyoruz bug\u00fcn.<\/p>\n

Mellah (Yahudi Mahallesi)<\/strong><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/strong><\/h2>\n

Kraliyet Saray\u0131’n\u0131n kuzeyinde Fes el Cedid’de bulunan Mellah, d\u00fcnyan\u0131n en eski Yahudi topluluklar\u0131ndan birine ev sahipli\u011fi yap\u0131yor.<\/span> K\u00f6k\u00fc, Sultan’\u0131n, b\u00fcy\u00fcyen Yahudi cemaatinin konfor ve g\u00fcvenlikleri i<\/span>\u00e7in kendi mahallelerinde bar\u0131nmas\u0131na izin verdi\u011fi 15. y\u00fczy\u0131la kadar uzan\u0131yor.<\/span> \u00d6nceki d\u00f6nemlerde zenginlik ve stat\u00fcn\u00fcn oldu\u011fu b\u00f6lgelerde g\u00fcn\u00fcm\u00fczde \u00e7\u00f6kmekte olan evler ve pazar bulunuyor. B\u00f6lgedeki Yahudiler Ville Nouvella veya \u0130srail’e yerle\u015fmi\u015f. Burada say\u0131lar\u0131 \u00e7ok azalm\u0131\u015f.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/strong><\/h2>\n

Mahallenin g\u00fczel \u00e7ocuklar\u0131<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

Aben Danan Sinagogu<\/strong><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/h2>\n

17. y\u00fczy\u0131ldan kalmad\u0131r. 1999’da restore edilmi\u015ftir. K\u00fc\u00e7\u00fck ve sade bir ibadethanedir. Boyal\u0131 ah\u015fap kiri\u015fler ve mavi \u00e7inilerle dekore edilmi\u015ftir.<\/p>\n

Bir\u00e7ok Sinagog’ta oldu\u011fu gibi burada da giri\u015f \u00fccretlidir. \"\"<\/strong><\/p>\n

Fes el Bali<\/strong><\/p>\n

D\u00fcn biraz gezdi\u011fimiz ve Fez’in en cazip b\u00f6lgesi olan \u015eehir Medina’s\u0131na geliyoruz yine. Dar ve labirent benzeri sokaklarda \u00f6zg\u00fcrce dola\u015f\u0131p doya doya \u015fehrin havas\u0131n\u0131 koklayaca\u011f\u0131z.<\/p>\n

Her taraf\u0131 kaplayan \u00e7e\u015fit \u00e7e\u015fit d\u00fckkanlar. Deri i\u015f\u00e7ili\u011fi, bak\u0131r, pirin\u00e7 i\u015f\u00e7ili\u011fi, cam objeler, baharatlar, sebze, meyve, et satan d\u00fckkanlar, hediyelik\u00a0 e\u015fya d\u00fckkanlar\u0131.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

Fas’a \u00f6zg\u00fc bir \u00e7e\u015fit yemeni olan babu\u015flar.<\/p>\n

\"\"\"\"\"\"<\/p>\n

II. Mola \u0130dris Zaviyesi<\/strong><\/p>\n

Fas’\u0131 807-828 y\u0131llar\u0131nda y\u00f6neten ve Fes \u015fehrinin ana kurucusu olarak kabul edilen II. \u0130dris (ayn\u0131 zamanda Molla) t\u00fcrbesidir. Fas’\u0131n en \u00e7ok sayg\u0131 g\u00f6ren t\u00fcrbesidir.<\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/h5>\n

\u00c7ar\u015f\u0131da gezerken iki \u00fc\u00e7 ki\u015fi yan\u0131m\u0131za gelip bir \u015feyler anlatmaya \u00e7al\u0131\u015f\u0131yor. Bizi bir yere g\u00f6t\u00fcrmeye \u00e7al\u0131\u015f\u0131yorlar. Anlad\u0131k ki ellerinde satmak istedikleri malzemeleri var. Tak\u0131l\u0131p gidiyoruz arkalar\u0131ndan. Dar sokaklar boyunca biraz y\u00fcr\u00fcd\u00fckten sonra bah\u00e7eli bir eve geliyoruz. \"\"<\/p>\n

\u00d6nce bize meyve suyu (paral\u0131) ikram edip ard\u0131ndan \u00fcr\u00fcnlerini g\u00f6steriyorlar. Bizim i\u00e7in de iyi bir mola oldu bu.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

Dokuma tezgahlar\u0131n\u0131 sergiliyorlar.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

Art\u0131k Fez’de g\u00f6rmemiz gerekenler listemizi noktalad\u0131k.<\/p>\n

Me\u015fhur lak\u0131rd\u0131 “sokaklarda kaybolmak” modunday\u0131z. Kaybolal\u0131m \u00f6yleyse \ud83d\ude42<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

\"\" \"\" \u00a0\"\" \"\"<\/p>\n

Fas’\u0131n me\u015fhur kap\u0131lar\u0131<\/p>\n

\"\"\"\"<\/p>\n

\"\"\"\"\"\"<\/p>\n

Fes el Cedid’den bir g\u00f6r\u00fcn\u00fcm<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

Fez’den insan manzaralar\u0131<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

\n

\"\"<\/h2>\n

\"\" \u00a0\"\" \"\"<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p><\/blockquote>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

2. G\u00fcn\u00a016 Eyl\u00fcl 2018 Pazar (Devam) Fez d\u00fcnyan\u0131n en b\u00fcy\u00fck ve en korunmu\u015f Orta\u00e7a\u011f \u0130slam kentlerinden biridir. \u00d6zbekistan’da Hiva, \u0130ran’da Yezd ne ise Fas’ta da Fez odur. Fez; 1981 y\u0131l\u0131nda Unesco D\u00fcnya Miras Alan\u0131 olarak kabul edilmi\u015f.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":3553,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[392],"tags":[402,394,396,400,403,393,395,397,399,401],"class_list":["post-3487","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-fez","tag-aben-danan-sinagogu","tag-bab-bou-boujloud","tag-chouara-tanneries","tag-dar-el-magana","tag-fes-el-bali","tag-fez","tag-inaniye-medresesi","tag-karaviyin-medresesi","tag-mellah","tag-nejjarin"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.yeryuzundebirkacadim.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/3487","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.yeryuzundebirkacadim.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.yeryuzundebirkacadim.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.yeryuzundebirkacadim.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.yeryuzundebirkacadim.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=3487"}],"version-history":[{"count":39,"href":"https:\/\/www.yeryuzundebirkacadim.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/3487\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":3640,"href":"https:\/\/www.yeryuzundebirkacadim.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/3487\/revisions\/3640"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.yeryuzundebirkacadim.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/3553"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.yeryuzundebirkacadim.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=3487"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.yeryuzundebirkacadim.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=3487"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.yeryuzundebirkacadim.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=3487"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}