{"id":3260,"date":"2020-04-25T13:15:34","date_gmt":"2020-04-25T10:15:34","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.yeryuzundebirkacadim.com\/?p=3260"},"modified":"2024-08-19T13:56:25","modified_gmt":"2024-08-19T10:56:25","slug":"isfahan","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.yeryuzundebirkacadim.com\/index.php\/2020\/04\/25\/isfahan\/","title":{"rendered":"\u0130sfahan"},"content":{"rendered":"

8. G\u00fcn 3 May\u0131s 2019 Cuma<\/strong><\/p>\n

\u015eah Abbas\u2019\u0131n \u015fehri denilen,\u00a0\u0130pek Yolu \u00fczerinde bulunan bu eski \u0130ran ba\u015fkenti do\u011funun en b\u00fcy\u00fck \u015fehriydi.<\/p>\n

Tarih boyunca sanat, edebiyat ve felsefenin merkezi olmu\u015f bir \u015fehir buras\u0131. G\u00fczelli\u011finin d\u00fcnyaya bedel oldu\u011funu ona \u201cNefse Cihan\u201d yani d\u00fcnyan\u0131n yar\u0131s\u0131 diyerek ifade etmi\u015fler.<\/p>\n

<\/p>\n

\u0130sfahan\u2019\u0131n g\u00fczelli\u011fini anlatmak i\u00e7in bir \u0130ran \u015fairi, \u201cBen gittim, \u0130sfahan\u2019da y\u00fcz d\u00fcnya g\u00f6rd\u00fcm\u201d der.<\/p>\n

\u015eehrin ilk kaydedilen alt\u0131n \u00e7a\u011f\u0131, 11. y\u00fczy\u0131lda Orta Asya’dan Sel\u00e7uklu T\u00fcrklerinin geli\u015fine kadar uzanmaktad\u0131r. Tu\u011frul Bey taraf\u0131ndan ba\u015fkent yap\u0131lan \u015fehir, torunu I. Melik \u015eah d\u00f6neminde de ihti\u015faml\u0131 bir yer olmu\u015f.<\/p>\n

\u015eehrin ikinci alt\u0131n \u00e7a\u011f\u0131 ise \u015eah I. Abbas’\u0131n \u015fehri ba\u015fkent yap\u0131\u015f\u0131 ve imar\u0131 ile ger\u00e7ekle\u015fmi\u015f. Ermeni kentini ve esnaf\u0131n\u0131 ithal ederek, Katolik rahipleri ve Protestan t\u00fcccarlar\u0131n\u0131 kar\u015f\u0131layarak \u015fehri\u00a0 k\u00fcresel bir metropol haline getirdi. Yahudi ve Zerd\u00fc\u015ft topluluklara kar\u015f\u0131 ho\u015fg\u00f6r\u00fcl\u00fc idi. \u0130sfahan’\u0131 ilk \u015eii \u0130mparatorlu\u011fu’nun siyasi ba\u015fkenti olarak kurmaya \u00e7al\u0131\u015ft\u0131 ve L\u00fcbnan’dan kentin dini kurumlar\u0131n\u0131 g\u00fc\u00e7lendirmek i\u00e7in teologlar getirtti.<\/p>\n

Yeni ba\u015fkentte bir\u00e7ok sanat geli\u015fti. Minyat\u00fcristler, hal\u0131 dokumac\u0131lar\u0131, kuyumcular ve \u00e7\u00f6mlek\u00e7iler, geni\u015f caddeler boyunca uzanan konaklar\u0131 ve saraylar\u0131 g\u00fc\u00e7lendiren g\u00fczel eserler ortaya \u00e7\u0131kard\u0131.<\/p>\n

\u0130talyan seyyah\u00a0Della Valle<\/strong> de 1617 y\u0131l\u0131nda \u0130ran\u2019a ilk geldi\u011finde \u00fclkeyi \u015f\u00f6yle tasvir ediyordu: \u201c\u00dclke huzurlu, co\u011frafyas\u0131 muhte\u015fem, asayi\u015f iyi. Yo\u011fun bir n\u00fcfus var. \u00c7ad\u0131ra gerek yok \u00e7\u00fcnk\u00fc her yerde yolcular i\u00e7in yap\u0131lm\u0131\u015f kervansaraylar var. Topraklar ekiliyor. Nar, elma ve \u00fcz\u00fcm gibi meyveler bol. \u0130ran halk\u0131 kibar ve nazik. \u00d6zellikle yabanc\u0131lara kar\u015f\u0131 \u00e7ok inceler.”<\/p>\n

“M\u00fcsl\u00fcman olmalar\u0131na ra\u011fmen rahatl\u0131kla \u015farap i\u00e7iyorlar. Orduda, sarayda, k\u0131rsalda T\u00fcrk\u00e7e konu\u015fuluyor. T\u00fcrk\u00e7e konu\u015fan \u0130ranl\u0131 kad\u0131nlar var. T\u00fcrk\u00e7e, Fars\u00e7a\u2019y\u0131 da etkilemi\u015f. Her tarafta T\u00fcrk\u00e7e konu\u015fulmas\u0131n\u0131n sebebi K\u0131z\u0131lba\u015flar\u0131n T\u00fcrk olmas\u0131. \u00dclkedeki soylular\u0131n \u00e7o\u011fu da T\u00fcrk. Dillerini iyi muhafaza etmi\u015fler. Hatta \u015eah bile T\u00fcrk\u00e7e konu\u015fuyor.\u201d (Do\u00e7. Dr. Cihat Aydo\u011fmu\u015fo\u011flu, Ankara \u00dcniversitesi, \u015eah Abbas Devrinde \u0130ran\u2019da Sosyal ve K\u00fclt\u00fcrel Hayat)<\/p>\n

\u0130ran\u2019\u0131n en b\u00fcy\u00fck \u00fc\u00e7\u00fcnc\u00fc \u015fehri olan \u0130sfahan, resmi ba\u015fkent olamasa da tarihi ve k\u00fclt\u00fcrel a\u00e7\u0131dan \u00fclkenin ba\u015fkenti olmaya devam ediyor.<\/p>\n

Cuma Cami (Ulu Cami)<\/strong><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

(G\u00fcney ve bat\u0131 eyvan)<\/p>\n

UNESCO D\u00fcnya K\u00fclt\u00fcr Miras\u0131 Listesinde yer al\u0131yor. D\u00fcnyan\u0131n en eski 10 camisinden biridir.<\/p>\n

\u015eehrin bu kuzey b\u00f6lgesinde daha \u00f6nceden Abbasiler’den kalma bir cami vard\u0131. S\u00fcnni \u0130slam’\u0131 kabul eden Sel\u00e7uklular, Abbasi halifesi taraf\u0131ndan yapt\u0131r\u0131lan camiyi tamir etmenin bir onur oldu\u011funu d\u00fc\u015f\u00fcnd\u00fcler ve yo\u011fun bir in\u015faat faaliyetine ba\u015flad\u0131lar. Cami, Sultan Melik\u015fah ad\u0131na veziri Nizam \u00fcl-M\u00fclk taraf\u0131ndan yapt\u0131r\u0131lm\u0131\u015ft\u0131r.<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n

Binan\u0131n ilk in\u015fas\u0131 Abbasiler’e ait olmas\u0131na ra\u011fmen, eklentileri nedeniyle Sel\u00e7uklu mimarisinin \u015faheseri olarak kabul edilir. <\/span><\/span>Sel\u00e7uklu eseri oldu\u011fu i\u00e7in de Arap mimarisinden farkl\u0131 oldu\u011fu hemen g\u00f6ze \u00e7arp\u0131yor. Mavi \u00e7inilerin hakim oldu\u011fu bu g\u00fczel eser \u00d6zbekistan’\u0131 hat\u0131rlat\u0131yor.<\/p>\n

Sel\u00e7uklular Cami’yi ba\u011f\u0131ms\u0131z bir yap\u0131 olarak de\u011fil, \u015fehir plan\u0131n\u0131n ayr\u0131lmaz bir par\u00e7as\u0131 olarak alg\u0131lad\u0131lar. \u015eehrin merkezini de bu kompleksin etraf\u0131nda kurdular. B\u00f6ylelikle Sel\u00e7uklular, Safevi d\u00f6nemi’nde daha da geli\u015ftirilecek olan \u015fehir meydan\u0131 kavram\u0131n\u0131 ba\u015flatt\u0131lar.<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n

Cami’ye eyvan eklenmi\u015f ve Sasani saraylar\u0131n\u0131n d\u00f6rt eyvanl\u0131 kare\/dikd\u00f6rtgen formda avlu d\u00fczeni \u0130slam dini mimarisine uyarlanm\u0131\u015ft\u0131r. <\/span>Bu plan daha sonra \u0130ran’daki camileri etkiledi ve model olu\u015fturdu.<\/span><\/p>\n

Avlunun d\u00f6rt taraf\u0131n\u0131 \u00e7evreleyen d\u00f6rt eyvan, birbirinden farkl\u0131d\u0131r ve her biri kendi d\u00f6neminin \u00f6zelliklerini yans\u0131t\u0131r.<\/span><\/p>\n

G\u00fcney taraf\u0131ndaki eyvan en ihti\u015faml\u0131s\u0131d\u0131r. Mo\u011fol d\u00f6nemi mimari \u00f6zelliklerine sahiptir. \u00dczerindeki mozaikler 15. y\u00fczy\u0131ldan kalmad\u0131r. <\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

Safeviler taraf\u0131ndan eyvan\u0131n iki taraf\u0131na yerle\u015ftirilen minareler ile yap\u0131 daha b\u00fcy\u00fck hale getirilmi\u015f ve vurgulanm\u0131\u015ft\u0131r. Bilinen en eski ikiz minareli camidir.<\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

Komplekse karakterini veren iki kubbeli b\u00f6l\u00fcm bu d\u00f6nemde eklendi.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

Nizam \u00fcl-M\u00fclk Kubbesi; G\u00fcney cephedeki mihrap kubbesidir. Nizam \u00fcl-M\u00fclk taraf\u0131ndan in\u015fa edilmi\u015ftir.<\/span>\u00a0Bu kubbe, zaman\u0131n\u0131n en b\u00fcy\u00fck kubbesiydi.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

Kerpi\u00e7 malzeme \u00e7ok kullan\u0131lm\u0131\u015ft\u0131r.<\/p>\n

S\u00fctunlar orman\u0131 gibi bir manzara hakim.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

Bat\u0131 eyvan\u0131; Sel\u00e7uklular d\u00f6neminde yap\u0131lm\u0131\u015ft\u0131r.<\/p>\n

Mavi a\u011f\u0131rl\u0131kl\u0131 \u00e7ok renkli \u00e7inilerin kullan\u0131ld\u0131\u011f\u0131 d\u0131\u015f cephe, hat yaz\u0131lar\u0131 ile de g\u00f6z al\u0131c\u0131.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

Bat\u0131 cephesinde 1310\u2019da Mo\u011fol Han\u0131 Olcayto Han taraf\u0131ndan yapt\u0131r\u0131lan Mihrab; ta\u015f \u00fczerine kufi yaz\u0131s\u0131yla ince ince i\u015flenmi\u015f surelerden olu\u015fur ve harikulade g\u00f6r\u00fcn\u00fcmdedir. Ah\u015fap bir minber de bulunur.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

Kuzeydeki eyvan, Sel\u00e7uklu d\u00f6nemine aittir ve \u00fczerindeki yaz\u0131lar, kufi tarz\u0131yla yaz\u0131lm\u0131\u015f bir hat sanat\u0131d\u0131r.<\/p>\n

B\u00f6ylesine \u00f6nemli bir yap\u0131da, Sel\u00e7uklu \u0130mparatorlu\u011fu tebaas\u0131n\u0131n \u00f6nemli bir b\u00f6l\u00fcm\u00fcn\u00fc olu\u015fturan \u015eafi mezhebini g\u00f6z ard\u0131 etmeyen Melik\u015fah, Nizam \u00fcl-M\u00fclk\u2019\u00fcn \u015eafi rakibi Tac \u00fcl-M\u00fclk\u2019e de kuzey cephesine,\u00a0 kaburgal\u0131 kubbeyi yapt\u0131rma iznini vermi\u015f. Gerek kubbenin \u00fczerine bindirildi\u011fi duvarlar ve gerekse kubbenin yap\u0131m\u0131nda kullan\u0131lan tu\u011flalar\u0131n yerle\u015ftirilme \u015fekli, Nizam \u00fcl-M\u00fclk b\u00f6l\u00fcm\u00fcne k\u0131yasla \u00e7ok daha karma\u015f\u0131k ve estetik b\u00fct\u00fcnl\u00fck i\u00e7indedir.<\/span><\/p>\n

Melik \u015eah’\u0131n daveti ile \u0130sfahan’a g\u00f6zlemevi kurmak i\u00e7in gelen, Nizam \u00fcl-m\u00fclk’\u00fcn arkada\u015f\u0131 \u00d6mer Hayyam’\u0131n kuzey kubbesini tasarlad\u0131\u011f\u0131 rivayet edilir.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

\u0130leri teknik yetene\u011fi ve i\u015f\u00e7ilikle yap\u0131lm\u0131\u015f yakla\u015f\u0131k 200 tonoz bulunmaktad\u0131r.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

\n
Do\u011fu eyvan\u0131<\/div>\n
\"\"<\/strong><\/div>\n
<\/div>\n<\/div>\n
\n
Ermeni Mahallesi Colfa\u00a0<\/strong><\/div>\n<\/div>\n

Tarihi I. <\/strong>\u015eah Abbas d\u00f6nemine kadar gidiyormu\u015f. Hristiyanlar\u0131n ticaretteki, giri\u015fimcilikteki ve sanattaki becerilerini takdir eden \u015eah, d\u00f6nemine g\u00f6re b\u00fcy\u00fck bir ho\u015fg\u00f6r\u00fcl\u00fckle onlar\u0131 \u0130sfahan\u2019a yerle\u015ftirmi\u015f, burada kendi ibadetlerini \u00f6zg\u00fcrce yapmalar\u0131na izin vermi\u015f. Burada hala \u00e7ok say\u0131da Ermeni ya\u015f\u0131yor.<\/p>\n

Vank Katedrali<\/strong><\/p>\n

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II. \u015eah Abbas’\u0131n deste\u011fi ile yap\u0131lan katedralin i\u00e7inde renkli \u00e7ini gibi \u0130slami malzemeler ve s\u00fcsl\u00fc Hristiyanl\u0131k freskolar\u0131 birlikte kullan\u0131lm\u0131\u015f. \u0130\u00e7 mekan duvarlar\u0131n\u0131 s\u00fcsleyen dinsel resimler, bat\u0131 sanat\u0131n\u0131n ge\u00e7mi\u015fte \u0130sfahan\u2019daki \u00f6nemli varl\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131n kan\u0131t\u0131. Eski Ahit, \u0130sa\u2019n\u0131n ya\u015fam\u0131ndan sahneleri konu alan bu resimler, do\u011fu kilisesi ikonografisinin bat\u0131l\u0131 \u00fcslupla ger\u00e7ekle\u015ftirilmi\u015f az say\u0131da \u00f6rneklerinden.<\/p>\n

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Kilisenin m\u00fcze b\u00f6l\u00fcm\u00fc<\/strong>nde o d\u00f6nemin resimleri, matbaalar\u0131, teleskoplar\u0131 vb. bulunmaktad\u0131r.<\/p>\n

Buray\u0131 gezerken g\u00f6rd\u00fc\u011f\u00fcm\u00fcz bir tablo kar\u015f\u0131s\u0131nda donakal\u0131yoruz. I\u015f\u0131kland\u0131r\u0131lm\u0131\u015f bir T\u00fcrkiye haritas\u0131 i\u00e7inde s\u00f6zde Ermeni soyk\u0131r\u0131m\u0131 b\u00f6lgeleri g\u00f6steriliyor ve Osmanl\u0131 \u0130mparatorlu\u011fu k\u0131nan\u0131yor.<\/p>\n

Kilisenin duvarlar\u0131nda ve m\u00fczede T\u00fcrkiye aleyhtar\u0131 afi\u015fler as\u0131l\u0131.<\/p>\n

\u0130laveten kilisenin bah\u00e7esinde 1975’te yap\u0131lm\u0131\u015f bir s\u00f6zde soyk\u0131r\u0131m an\u0131t\u0131 mevcut.<\/p>\n

Sava\u015f i\u00e7inde oldu\u011fumuz bir d\u00f6nemde ya\u015fanan baz\u0131 olaylar \u00fczerine -\u00fcstelik ar\u015fiv belgeleri ile kan\u0131tlanamam\u0131\u015fken- b\u00f6yle kutsal bir mekan\u0131n i\u00e7ine, kin ve nefret tohumlar\u0131 sa\u00e7acak \u015fekilde beyanlar\u0131n yerle\u015ftirilmesi ve buna \u0130ran’\u0131n m\u00fcsaade etmesi akla, hayale s\u0131\u011fm\u0131yor.<\/p>\n

Kiliseden sonra biraz mola veriyor bir kafeye gidiyoruz.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

Sonras\u0131nda bir m\u00fcze ziyaretimiz var.<\/p>\n

\u0130sfahan M\u00fczik M\u00fczesi<\/strong><\/p>\n

M\u00fczeyi; iki \u00fcnl\u00fc \u0130ranl\u0131 m\u00fczisyen, 20 y\u0131l boyunca \u0130ran’da toplad\u0131klar\u0131\u00a0 yakla\u015f\u0131k 300 \u00e7e\u015fit geleneksel \u0130ran m\u00fczik aleti toplayarak kurmu\u015f.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

M\u00fczeye girdi\u011fimizde \u00f6nce bir dinleti salonuna ald\u0131lar bizi.<\/p>\n

7 m\u00fczisyen, bendir, santur, darbuka ve y\u00f6resel enstr\u00fcmanlardan olu\u015fan saz aletleri ile 20 dakika kadar konser verdi.<\/p>\n

Ard\u0131ndan yine kendileri \u0130ngilizce (dilerseniz Frans\u0131zca) rehberlik ederek m\u00fczeyi gezdirdiler.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

Baz\u0131 enstr\u00fcmanlar\u0131n nas\u0131l \u00e7al\u0131nd\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131 g\u00f6rebilir, medya ve ses ekran\u0131 yard\u0131m\u0131yla yapt\u0131klar\u0131 sesi dinleyebilirsiniz.<\/p>\n

M\u00fcze, 2016 y\u0131l\u0131nda ICOM (Uluslararas\u0131 M\u00fczeler Konseyi)’nden iki uluslararas\u0131 \u00f6d\u00fcl ald\u0131.<\/span><\/p>\n

Ayn\u0131 y\u0131l M\u00fcze, \u0130ran’\u0131n K\u00fclt\u00fcrel Miras\u0131, El Sanatlar\u0131 ve Turizm Organizasyonu’ndan \u00fclkenin “En \u0130yi \u00d6zel Organize M\u00fczesi” unvan\u0131n\u0131 ald\u0131.<\/span><\/p>\n

\u0130sfahan\u2019\u0131n K\u00f6pr\u00fcleri<\/strong><\/p>\n

\u015eehrin i\u00e7inden ge\u00e7en Zayende Nehri \u00fczerinde \u0130sfahan\u2019\u0131n farkl\u0131 d\u00f6nemlerine ait bir\u00e7ok tarihi k\u00f6pr\u00fc var.<\/p>\n

Bu k\u00f6pr\u00fclerden en eskisi\u00a0\u015eehristan<\/strong>\u00a0K\u00f6pr\u00fcs\u00fc<\/strong>. 13 kemerli ta\u015f ve tu\u011fla yap\u0131s\u0131n\u0131n b\u00fcy\u00fck b\u00f6l\u00fcm\u00fc 12. y\u00fczy\u0131ldan olsa da k\u00f6pr\u00fcn\u00fcn temeli Sasaniler’den (3-7. y\u00fczy\u0131l aras\u0131) kalma oldu\u011fu i\u00e7in Sasani mimarisini yans\u0131t\u0131yor.<\/p>\n

Si-o-se Pol (33 G\u00f6zl\u00fc) K\u00f6pr\u00fcs\u00fc<\/strong><\/p>\n

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298 metre uzunlu\u011funda, \u015eah I. Abbas\u2019\u0131n en \u00fcnl\u00fc generallerinden Allahverdi Han taraf\u0131ndan 1599-1602 y\u0131llar\u0131 aras\u0131nda in\u015fa edilmi\u015f. \u015eehrin sembollerinden biri. 33 kemerlidir. 33 ayakl\u0131 \u00fcst \u00fcste binmi\u015f iki s\u0131radan olu\u015fur . Siose 33 demektir. Kutsal bir say\u0131d\u0131r. Safevi k\u00f6pr\u00fc tasar\u0131m\u0131n\u0131n en \u00fcnl\u00fc \u00f6rneklerindendir. Ara\u00e7 trafi\u011fine kapal\u0131d\u0131r. K\u00f6pr\u00fcdeki k\u00fc\u00e7\u00fck kas\u0131r \u015eah manzaray\u0131 seyretsin diye yap\u0131lm\u0131\u015f.<\/p>\n

Ak\u015fam\u00fcst\u00fc serbest zamanda yemek ve kahve ihtiyac\u0131m\u0131z\u0131 gideriyoruz.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

Yar\u0131n Nak\u015f-\u0131 Cihan Meydan\u0131’n\u0131 gezece\u011fiz.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

9. G\u00fcn 4 May\u0131s 2019 Cumartesi<\/strong><\/p>\n

Sabah ilk gezece\u011fimiz yer bir saray.<\/p>\n

He\u015ft Behe\u015ft Saray\u0131<\/strong><\/p>\n

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\u0130sfahan’\u0131n \u00fcnl\u00fc \u00c7ar Bah caddesi \u00fczerinde bulunan saray Safevi Devleti \u015eah\u0131 I. S\u00fcleyman (17. y\u00fczy\u0131l) zaman\u0131nda yapt\u0131r\u0131lm\u0131\u015ft\u0131r. Sekiz cennet demektir. B\u00fclb\u00fcl bah\u00e7esinin ortas\u0131nda kurulan sekizgen bi\u00e7imindeki k\u00f6\u015fk 2 katl\u0131, 20 odal\u0131d\u0131r. Bu saray \u015eah Abbas’\u0131n sekiz e\u015fi i\u00e7in bir evdi.<\/span>\u00a0Bunlardan d\u00f6rd\u00fc birinci katta, di\u011fer d\u00f6rd\u00fc ikinci katta ya\u015f\u0131yordu.<\/span><\/p>\n

Bu saray \u0130skender Pala’n\u0131n “\u015eah ve Sultan” kitab\u0131nda \u015eah \u0130smail’in ya\u015fad\u0131\u011f\u0131 saray olarak anlat\u0131l\u0131r. (Buras\u0131 \u015eah \u0130smail’den sonra yap\u0131lm\u0131\u015f ama romanda b\u00f6yle \u015feyler kabullenilebilir.) Roman\u0131 okudu\u011fumdan beri hep merak etti\u011fim bir sarayd\u0131. Gezerken de \u015eah \u0130smail ve Ta\u00e7l\u0131 Hatun’u and\u0131m.<\/p>\n

D\u00f6rt b\u00fcy\u00fck taraf\u0131nda, baz\u0131 uzun ve ince ah\u015fap s\u00fctunlar\u0131n y\u00fckseltildi\u011fi geni\u015f balkonlar bulunur. Her cephe birbirinden farkl\u0131d\u0131r.<\/span><\/p>\n

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K\u00f6\u015fk duvar resimleri, delikli ah\u015fap i\u015fleri, prizmatik aynalar, \u00e7ini ve al\u00e7\u0131 i\u015fleri ile dekore edilmi\u015ftir.<\/span> <\/sup><\/p>\n

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\u00c7ehel S\u00fctun Saray\u0131 (40 S\u00fct\u00fcn Saray\u0131)<\/strong><\/p>\n

2011 y\u0131l\u0131nda UNESCO K\u00fclt\u00fcrel Miras listesine kaydedildi.<\/span><\/p>\n

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\u015eah Abbas \u0130sfahan’\u0131 ba\u015fkent yapt\u0131\u011f\u0131nda muazzam bir \u015fehir planlamas\u0131na giri\u015fiyor. Etraf\u0131n\u0131 bah\u00e7elerle s\u00fcsledi\u011fi ana cadde “Char Bagh” (D\u00f6rt Bah\u00e7e) \u00fczerinde yap\u0131lar planlan\u0131yor. (Bug\u00fcn bu cadde \u00fczerindeki bah\u00e7elerden sadece He\u015ft Behe\u015ft ve \u00c7ehel S\u00fctun Saraylar\u0131n\u0131n bah\u00e7eleri kalm\u0131\u015ft\u0131r.)<\/p>\n

Bunlardan biri de \u00c7ehel S\u00fctun Saray\u0131. 1588’lerde planlanan saray ancak II. \u015eah Abbas zaman\u0131nda (1647) tamamlan\u0131yor. Nak\u015f-\u0131 Cihan Meydan\u0131’n\u0131n \u00e7evresinde bulunan bir yap\u0131 bu. Ali Kapu Saray\u0131’n\u0131n biraz arkas\u0131nda yer al\u0131yor.<\/p>\n

Bah\u00e7eye girince do\u011fu bat\u0131 ekseninde 110 metre uzunlu\u011funda bir havuz kar\u015f\u0131l\u0131yor ziyaret\u00e7ileri. 110 ebced hesab\u0131nda “Ali” kelimesinin say\u0131sal de\u011ferine kar\u015f\u0131l\u0131k geliyor.<\/p>\n

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Saray\u0131n tasar\u0131m\u0131nda \u00c7in, \u0130ran ve Avrupa mimarisinden esinlenilmi\u015f.<\/span>\u00a0Saray\u0131n giri\u015finde y\u00fcksek tavanl\u0131 bir sundurma bulunuyor. S\u00fcslemeleri ve plan\u0131 ile saray\u0131n ihti\u015fam\u0131 vurgulanmak istenmi\u015f. Y\u00fcksek tavan hafif olmas\u0131 i\u00e7in ah\u015faptan yap\u0131lm\u0131\u015f ince, zarif ah\u015fap s\u00fctunlar taraf\u0131ndan ta\u015f\u0131n\u0131yor. <\/span>S\u00fctunlar 20 adet. Havuza yans\u0131malar\u0131 ile 40 adetmi\u015f gibi g\u00f6r\u00fcn\u00fcyorlar. K\u0131rk anlam\u0131na gelen ve saraya ismini veren \u201c\u00e7ehel\u201d kelimesi buradan kaynaklan\u0131yor. Di\u011fer yandan \u0130ran’da \u00e7ehel (40) say\u0131s\u0131n\u0131n genel olarak \u00e7oklu\u011fu ifade etti\u011fini belirtmek gerekir.<\/span>\u00a0Bu nedenle, b\u00f6yle inan\u0131lmaz bir yap\u0131 in\u015fa etmenin arkas\u0131nda b\u00fcy\u00fck bir tefekk\u00fcr oldu\u011funu d\u00fc\u015f\u00fcnebiliriz.<\/span><\/p>\n

Bah\u00e7edeki heykelleri Avrupa saraylar\u0131n\u0131n bah\u00e7elerine \u00f6zenerek yerle\u015ftirildikleri kabul edilir. \u00c7\u00fcnk\u00fc Pers bah\u00e7elerinde heykel yoktur. Havuzun k\u00f6\u015fesindeki aslanl\u0131 kad\u0131n heykelinin ilgin\u00e7 bir hikayesi var.<\/p>\n

Sasani Kral\u0131 Bahram, ava gitmeyi \u00e7ok severmi\u015f. \u00c7\u0131kt\u0131\u011f\u0131 av partilerinden birinde yan\u0131ndakilere g\u00f6steri\u015f yapmak i\u00e7in zebran\u0131n kula\u011f\u0131n\u0131 okuyla ikiye ay\u0131rm\u0131\u015f. Yan\u0131ndakiler \u015fa\u015fk\u0131nl\u0131kla bakarken ikinci bir okla \u00f6n aya\u011f\u0131 ile kula\u011f\u0131n\u0131 tutmakta olan hayvan\u0131n aya\u011f\u0131n\u0131 kula\u011f\u0131na m\u0131hlam\u0131\u015f. Herkes sultan\u0131 tebrik ederken gen\u00e7 cariyelerden bir tanesi, “\u0130nce i\u015f \u00e7ok talim ister” demi\u015f. Bu laftan ho\u015flanmayan Bahram, vezirlerinden birine gen\u00e7 k\u0131z\u0131 g\u00f6t\u00fcr\u00fcp \u00f6ld\u00fcrmesini istemi\u015f. Ancak adil bir insan olan vezir bu \u00e7ok ak\u0131ll\u0131, cesur ve g\u00fczel k\u0131z\u0131 \u00f6ld\u00fcrmeye k\u0131yamay\u0131p haremine alm\u0131\u015f. Ancak s\u00f6z\u00fcn\u00fc esirgemeyen bu gen\u00e7 k\u0131za, her g\u00fcn saray\u0131n\u0131n \u00f6n\u00fcndeki yoku\u015fu bir buza\u011f\u0131 ile t\u0131rmanma g\u00f6revini vermi\u015f. Zaman\u0131n i\u00e7inde yoku\u015f ayn\u0131 kalm\u0131\u015f ama buza\u011f\u0131 giderek b\u00fcy\u00fcyerek kocaman bir inek olmu\u015f. K\u0131zca\u011f\u0131z ise kazand\u0131\u011f\u0131 al\u0131\u015fkanl\u0131kla kocaman bir inekle bile yoku\u015fu kolayca t\u0131rman\u0131r olmu\u015f. Bilge vezir sonunda bir ak\u015fam yeme\u011fine Bahram\u2019\u0131 davet etmi\u015f. Yemek s\u0131ras\u0131nda gen\u00e7 ve \u00e7elimsiz bir k\u0131z\u0131n yoku\u015fu s\u0131rt\u0131nda kocaman inekle t\u0131rmand\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131 g\u00f6ren Bahram bu i\u015fi nas\u0131l ba\u015fard\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131 sorunca ald\u0131\u011f\u0131 cevap, “\u0130nce i\u015f \u00e7ok talim ister” olmu\u015f. Durumu anlayan Bahram, gen\u00e7 k\u0131z\u0131 da veziri de ba\u011f\u0131\u015flam\u0131\u015f.<\/p>\n

Sundurma tavan\u0131nda \u0130ran’a \u00f6zg\u00fc incelikli bir sanat: hatem sanat\u0131.<\/p>\n

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\u015eah, saray\u0131 \u00f6zel kabulleri ve e\u011flencesi i\u00e7in yapt\u0131rm\u0131\u015f. Belki de o y\u00fczden s\u0131cak g\u00f6r\u00fcn\u00fcme sahip bir saray.<\/p>\n

Muazzam salonlar\u0131n d<\/span>uvarlar\u0131n\u0131 s\u00fcsleyen \u00e7iniler ve fresklerde zaman\u0131n \u00f6nemli olaylar\u0131 anlat\u0131lm\u0131\u015f. (Ne yaz\u0131k ki \u00e7ini panolar\u0131n bir k\u0131sm\u0131 bat\u0131l\u0131 \u00fclkelerin m\u00fczelerinde sergileniyor.)<\/p>\n

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En \u00fcnl\u00fc tablo Safevi Devleti ve Osmanl\u0131 \u0130mparatorlu\u011fu aras\u0131nda, Safeviler’in yenilgisi ile sonu\u00e7lanan \u00c7ald\u0131ran Sava\u015f\u0131. A\u00e7\u0131klay\u0131c\u0131 tabelalarda da belirtildi\u011fi gibi Safeviler atlar\u0131 ile, k\u0131l\u0131\u00e7 vb. silahlar kullan\u0131rken, Osmanl\u0131lar top kullanm\u0131\u015f ve sava\u015f\u0131 kazanm\u0131\u015ft\u0131r.<\/p>\n

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1646’da \u00d6zbek Kral\u0131 i\u00e7in yap\u0131lan bir resepsiyon, 1611’de Buhara Emiri onuruna yap\u0131lan bir \u015f\u00f6len gibi tarihsel olaylar\u0131 betimleyen eserlerin yan\u0131 s\u0131ra, i\u00e7eri\u011fi pek tarihsel olmayan, geleneksel minyat\u00fcr\u00a0tarz\u0131nda yap\u0131lm\u0131\u015f daha estetik kompozisyonlar da bulunmaktad\u0131r.<\/p>\n

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\u0130ran’da dekoratif bir sanat olan ayna \u00e7al\u0131\u015fmas\u0131 bu Saray’da ba\u015flam\u0131\u015f.<\/span> Ba\u015flang\u0131\u00e7ta t\u00fcm cepheler aynalarla kapl\u0131ym\u0131\u015f. El yap\u0131m\u0131 aynalar Venedik’ten gemilerle geliyormu\u015f. 19. y\u00fczy\u0131lda \u0130ngiliz diplomat J. Morier bu saray i\u00e7in \u015f\u00f6yle yaz\u0131yor: Uzaktan, kakma aynalarla t\u00fcm yap\u0131 camdan yap\u0131lm\u0131\u015f gibi g\u00f6r\u00fcn\u00fcyordu.<\/span><\/p>\n

Hala 350 y\u0131ll\u0131k, kavisli desenli ayna \u00e7al\u0131\u015fmalar\u0131 g\u00f6r\u00fclebilir.<\/p>\n

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Abbasi Otel<\/strong><\/p>\n

Ak\u015fam yemekten sonra me\u015fhur Abbasi Otel’e gidiyoruz. Abbasi Otel, 17. y\u00fczy\u0131l sonlar\u0131nda Safevi \u015eah\u0131 H\u00fcseyin taraf\u0131ndan yapt\u0131r\u0131lan bir kervansaray restore edilerek in\u015fa edilmi\u015f. Avlusu harika. \u00c7ay i\u00e7ip, dondurma yiyor ve tarihi i\u00e7imize \u00e7ekiyoruz.<\/p>\n

Bu arada \u00e7ay getiren garsonlar \u00e7ay bardaklar\u0131 ile bir \u015fov yap\u0131yorlar.<\/p>\n

UNESCO\u2019dan d\u00fcnyan\u0131n en eski oteli unvan\u0131n\u0131 almay\u0131 bekliyormu\u015f.<\/p>\n

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9. G\u00fcn 4 May\u0131s 2019 Cumartesi<\/strong><\/p>\n

Art\u0131k s\u0131ra \u0130ran’\u0131n en g\u00fczel \u015fehrinin, en g\u00fczel meydan\u0131n\u0131 gezmeye geldi.<\/p>\n

Nak\u015f-\u0131 Cihan Meydan\u0131 (\u0130mam Meydan\u0131)<\/strong><\/p>\n

UNESCO D\u00fcnya K\u00fclt\u00fcr Miras\u0131 Listesinde yer al\u0131yor.<\/span><\/p>\n

Buras\u0131 \u00c7in\u2019deki Tiananmen Meydan\u0131\u2019ndan sonra, 512 metre uzunlu\u011fu, 260 metre eni ile d\u00fcnyadaki 2. en b\u00fcy\u00fck meydan.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

\u015eah Abbas taraf\u0131ndan yapt\u0131r\u0131lm\u0131\u015f.<\/p>\n

Panoramik foto\u011fraf\u0131m gece \u00e7ekilmi\u015fti. O y\u00fczden bu foto\u011frafla anlatay\u0131m.<\/p>\n

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Meydan\u0131n g\u00fcney kanad\u0131nda; (yani tam kar\u015f\u0131da) \u00e7inilerle s\u00fcslenmi\u015f \u00a0olan \u0130mam Cami, do\u011fu kanad\u0131nda (solda kubbeli yap\u0131) g\u00f6rkemli i\u015flemelere sahip \u015eeyh L\u00fctfullah Mescidi ve bat\u0131 kanad\u0131nda ise etkileyici bir i\u00e7 tasar\u0131ma sahip m\u00fczik odas\u0131 ile, \u00fcnl\u00fc Ali Kapu Saray\u0131 gibi \u00fc\u00e7 muhte\u015fem eseri bar\u0131nd\u0131r\u0131yor.<\/p>\n

Kuzey kanad\u0131nda ise (foto\u011fraf\u0131n \u00e7ekildi\u011fi taraf) Kayseri \u00c7ar\u015f\u0131s\u0131’na (B\u00fcy\u00fck Pazar) giden \u00e7ini s\u00fcslemeli Kayseri Kap\u0131s\u0131 bulunuyor. (A\u015fa\u011f\u0131daki foto\u011fraf)<\/p>\n

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Meydan; \u015eah Abbas\u2019\u0131n, din, ticaret ve merkezi y\u00f6netim olmak \u00fczere \u00fclkenin en \u00f6nemli \u00fc\u00e7 g\u00fcc\u00fcn\u00fc elinde bulundurmas\u0131n\u0131 simgeliyormu\u015f.<\/span><\/p><\/div>\n

Meydan\u0131n ortas\u0131ndaki havuzu \u015eah R\u0131za Pehlevi yapt\u0131rm\u0131\u015f. Ak\u015fam \u0131\u015f\u0131kland\u0131r\u0131ld\u0131\u011f\u0131nda meydan masals\u0131 bir atmosfere b\u00fcr\u00fcn\u00fcyor.<\/p>\n

Her ne kadar aralar\u0131nda b\u00fcy\u00fckl\u00fck fark\u0131 olsa da, \u00e7evresindeki cami mimarisinin benzerli\u011fi nedeniyle buras\u0131 bana Semerkant’\u0131n Registan Meydan\u0131’n\u0131 hat\u0131rlat\u0131yor. Bize a\u015fina olan, zerafeti doruklarda, T\u00fcrk elinin de\u011fdi\u011fini g\u00f6steren eserler bunlar.<\/p>\n

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Meydan\u0131n orta yerinde ve k\u00fc\u00e7\u00fck bir b\u00f6l\u00fcm\u00fcn\u00fc kaplayan havuzu hesaba katmazsak orta alan tamamen park olarak d\u00fczenlenmi\u015f. Ge\u00e7mi\u015fte, bu havuzun olmad\u0131\u011f\u0131 devirde bu alanda polo oynan\u0131rm\u0131\u015f. \u0130ran\u2019da \u00e7ok eski zamanlardan beri bilinen bu spor daha sonra \u0130ngilizler taraf\u0131ndan \u0130ran d\u0131\u015f\u0131na ta\u015f\u0131nm\u0131\u015f.<\/p>\n

Meydan\u0131n etraf\u0131ndaki binalar\u0131n aras\u0131ndaki bo\u015fluklar, tamam\u0131 tek tip tasar\u0131ml\u0131 kemerli, iki katl\u0131 binalar ile doldurulmu\u015ftur. Buralarda d\u00fckkanlar bulunuyor.<\/p>\n

Meydan\u0131n i\u00e7erisindeyken, d\u0131\u015far\u0131dan herhangi bir bina g\u00f6r\u00fclemiyor. B\u00f6ylece b\u00f6l\u00fcnmeden tarihi hissetme f\u0131rsat\u0131 buluyorsunuz.<\/p>\n

\u0130mam Cami (Mescid-i \u0130mam, \u015eah Cami)<\/strong><\/p>\n

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\u0130ran mimarisinin ba\u015fyap\u0131tlar\u0131ndan biri kabul edilen cami meydanla birlikte UNESCO listesinde.<\/p>\n

Bu cami ayn\u0131 zamanda \u0130ran’daki en g\u00fczel cami olarak kabul ediliyor.<\/p>\n

Yap\u0131m\u0131na Ali Akbar \u0130sfahani taraf\u0131ndan 1611 y\u0131l\u0131nda ba\u015flanan caminin 1629’da bitmesine aylar kala \u015eah \u00f6lm\u00fc\u015f. \u015eah burada hi\u00e7 ibadet etme f\u0131rsat\u0131 bulamam\u0131\u015f.<\/p>\n

Cuma namaz\u0131 \u015eah Camisi’nde k\u0131ld\u0131r\u0131l\u0131yor. Cami tamamlanana kadar cuma namazlar\u0131 Sel\u00e7uklu Camisi’nde (Cuma Cami) k\u0131l\u0131n\u0131yordu. \u015eah Abbas \u015eiiler’in bu camiyi tercih etmeleri i\u00e7in Necef’deki Hz. Ali T\u00fcrbesi’nin kap\u0131lar\u0131n\u0131 buraya ta\u015f\u0131tm\u0131\u015f. Oraya da alt\u0131n kap\u0131lar takt\u0131rm\u0131\u015f. G\u00f6rmek i\u00e7in gelen \u015eiiler’in sonraki tercihi de buras\u0131 olmu\u015f.<\/p>\n

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Caminin k\u0131ble y\u00f6n\u00fc avlunun k\u00f6\u015fesine geldi\u011finden, meydan\u0131n simetrik yap\u0131s\u0131n\u0131 bozmamak i\u00e7in giri\u015ften sonra mihrab\u0131 kayd\u0131rm\u0131\u015flar. Meydandan girince camiye y\u00f6nelmek i\u00e7in sa\u011fa d\u00f6n\u00fcl\u00fcyor.<\/p>\n

Cami, 27 metre y\u00fcksekli\u011findeki eyvan yan\u0131nda, 42 metre y\u00fcksekli\u011finde 2 minare ile ta\u00e7land\u0131r\u0131lm\u0131\u015f.<\/p>\n

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Caminin en \u00f6nemli \u00f6zellikleri; turkuaz \u00e7inileri, hatlar\u0131, ah\u015fap \u015ferefeli minareleri ve akusti\u011fi.<\/p>\n

Renkli mozaik \u00e7iniler Yezd’den getirilmi\u015f. Hatlar\u0131n sanatkar\u0131 ise \u00fcnl\u00fc R\u0131za Abbasi.<\/p>\n

Giri\u015fteki mermer kazandan \u00f6zel g\u00fcnlerde \u015ferbet da\u011f\u0131t\u0131lmaktad\u0131r.<\/p>\n

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Merkez kubbenin i\u00e7i ve d\u0131\u015f\u0131 seramik.<\/p>\n

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Caminin akusti\u011fi m\u00fckemmelmi\u015f. G\u00fcner abi sa\u011folsun akusti\u011fin en uygun noktas\u0131nda durup bir ezan okudu ve an\u0131n ruhaniyeti ile sarmaland\u0131k.<\/p>\n

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Canl\u0131 renkli \u00e7iniler bizi bizden ald\u0131. D\u00fc\u015f\u00fck nem sayesinde renkler bozulmadan kalabiliyormu\u015f.<\/p>\n

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Ekip biraz yoruldu \ud83d\ude42<\/p>\n

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Bir kahve molas\u0131 verelim.<\/p>\n

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\u015eeyh L\u00fctfullah Cami<\/strong><\/p>\n

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(Ali Kapu Saray\u0131’ndan \u015eeyh L\u00fctfullah Cami)<\/span><\/p><\/div>\n

Meydandaki d\u00f6rt \u00f6nemli yap\u0131dan ilk in\u015fa edileni. \u015eah I. Abbas zaman\u0131nda, 1602-1619 y\u0131llar\u0131 aras\u0131nda tamamlanm\u0131\u015f.<\/p>\n

\u015eah’\u0131n kay\u0131npederi ve ayn\u0131 zamanda \u00fclkenin dini lideri konumunda olan L\u00fcbnanl\u0131 din alimi, felsefeci \u015eeyh L\u00fctfullah\u2019a adanan bir cami.<\/p>\n

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Halka a\u00e7\u0131k olan \u0130mam Cami’nin aksine buras\u0131 sadece saray ahalisine \u00f6zelmi\u015f. \u015eeyh L\u00fctfullah burada din adamlar\u0131na ders verirmi\u015f. Bu nedenle de hem di\u011fer camilere oranla daha k\u00fc\u00e7\u00fck hem de halk\u0131 namaza \u00e7a\u011f\u0131rmaya yarayan minareler olmadan tasarlanm\u0131\u015f. Ayr\u0131ca \u015eah ve ailesinin, Ali Kap\u0131 Saray\u0131\u2019ndan camiye gitmek i\u00e7in meydandan ge\u00e7memesi i\u00e7in ikisini birbirine ba\u011flayan bir t\u00fcnel de varm\u0131\u015f. B\u00f6ylece Cami y\u0131llarca halka kapal\u0131 oldu\u011fundan ancak y\u00fczy\u0131llar sonra bu g\u00fczel camiyi g\u00f6rme \u015fans\u0131na sahip olabilmi\u015fler.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/strong><\/p>\n

\u015eah Cami ile kar\u015f\u0131la\u015ft\u0131r\u0131ld\u0131\u011f\u0131nda \u00e7ok k\u00fc\u00e7\u00fckt\u00fcr. Avlu ve i\u00e7 mekan yoktur.<\/span>\u00a0Binan\u0131n kendisi, kare bir kubbe odas\u0131na oturan d\u00fczle\u015ftirilmi\u015f bir kubbeden olu\u015fmaktad\u0131r.<\/span>\u00a0Bununla birlikte, basit yap\u0131s\u0131n\u0131n aksine, hem i\u00e7 hem de d\u0131\u015f dekorasyonu \u00e7ok zengin ve inceliklidir. Yap\u0131m\u0131nda en iyi malzemeler kullan\u0131lm\u0131\u015f ve en yetenekli ustalar \u00e7al\u0131\u015ft\u0131r\u0131lm\u0131\u015ft\u0131r.<\/span><\/p>\n

\u0130mam Cami gibi \u015eeyh L\u00fctfullah Cami de giri\u015fteki kavisli yol ile ziyaret\u00e7ileri k\u0131bleye do\u011fru y\u00f6nlendiriyor. Bu lo\u015f giri\u015f yolunun bir amac\u0131 da d\u0131\u015far\u0131daki g\u00fc\u00e7l\u00fc \u0131\u015f\u0131ktan lo\u015f camiye ge\u00e7i\u015fi kolayla\u015ft\u0131rmakt\u0131r.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

Bir \u00e7ok bat\u0131l\u0131 seyahat yazar\u0131 buradaki s\u00fcsleme sanat\u0131ndan daha g\u00f6rkemlisini g\u00f6rmediklerini s\u00f6yler. Yap\u0131, heybetli g\u00f6r\u00fcn\u00fc\u015f\u00fc, duvar ve kubbe s\u00fcslemeleri ile \u015fah\u0131n g\u00fcc\u00fcn\u00fc ve ihti\u015fam\u0131n\u0131 anlatmak \u00fczere tasarlanm\u0131\u015f.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

\u00c7inilerin mavi, sar\u0131 ve krem renkleri t\u00fcm d\u00fcnyada benzersizdir. \u0130\u015flemeler ve hatlar\u0131n bir k\u0131sm\u0131 R\u0131za Abbasi taraf\u0131ndan yap\u0131lm\u0131\u015ft\u0131r. S\u00fcslemelerinde, \u00e7i\u00e7ekler, ku\u015flar ve hayvan fig\u00fcrleri g\u00f6ze \u00e7arp\u0131yor.<\/p>\n

Kubbenin i\u00e7 taraf\u0131n\u0131n ortas\u0131ndaki “tavus ku\u015fu” caminin e\u015fsiz \u00f6zelliklerinden biridir.<\/span> Salonun giri\u015f kap\u0131s\u0131nda durup kubbenin merkezine bakarsan\u0131z, kuyru\u011fu tavandaki delikten gelen g\u00fcne\u015f \u0131\u015f\u0131nlar\u0131 olan bir tavus ku\u015fu g\u00f6r\u00fclebilir.<\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

Ali Kapu Saray\u0131<\/strong><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

I. \u015eah Abbas taraf\u0131ndan 16. y\u00fczy\u0131l\u0131n sonunda in\u015fa edilmi\u015f, bizdeki Bab-\u0131 Ali\u2019nin (Y\u00fcce kap\u0131, Devlet kap\u0131s\u0131) kar\u015f\u0131l\u0131\u011f\u0131 olan Ali Kapu Saray\u0131, ilk yap\u0131ld\u0131\u011f\u0131nda 4 katl\u0131yken, II. \u015eah Abbas zaman\u0131nda geni\u015fletilmi\u015f ve \u00fcst kata m\u00fczik odas\u0131 in\u015fa edilmi\u015ftir.\u00a017. y\u00fczy\u0131l\u0131n en g\u00fczel ve en y\u00fcksek binas\u0131d\u0131r.<\/p>\n

Bat\u0131 cephesinde \u00c7ehel S\u00fctun ve He\u015ft Behe\u015ft Saray\u0131 ile kom\u015fudur.<\/p>\n

\u015eah dahil herkes \u0130mam Ali’ye sayg\u0131s\u0131ndan saraya girdiklerinde atlar\u0131ndan inerlermi\u015f.<\/p>\n

Kabul salonunun al\u00e7\u0131 \u00fczerine yap\u0131lm\u0131\u015f duvar s\u00fcslemeleri g\u00f6z al\u0131c\u0131d\u0131r.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

Alt\u0131 katl\u0131 sarayda en ilgi \u00e7eken yeri, ince ve zarif s\u00fctunlar \u00fczerinde konumlanan teras. \u015eah, meydana hakim konumdaki terastan polo ma\u00e7lar\u0131n\u0131, g\u00f6sterileri, kutlamalar\u0131, t\u00f6renleri ve at yar\u0131\u015flar\u0131n\u0131 seyredermi\u015f.<\/p>\n

Al\u00e7\u0131 i\u015flemeler ve minyat\u00fcrlerin bir k\u0131sm\u0131 R\u0131za Abbasi’ye ait. Duvar ve tavanda, \u00e7i\u00e7ek ve hayvan motiflerinin a\u011f\u0131rl\u0131kl\u0131 oldu\u011fu\u00a0 resimler g\u00f6r\u00fcl\u00fcyor.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

Merdivenler biraz dar ancak \u00e7inileri ile g\u00f6z al\u0131c\u0131.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

Alt\u0131nc\u0131 kata “M\u00fczik Salonu” bulunuyor. <\/span>Odan\u0131n i\u00e7inde ah\u015fap oyma i\u015f\u00e7ili\u011fi sadece dekoratif ama\u00e7l\u0131 de\u011fil ayn\u0131 zamanda akusti\u011fi sa\u011flamak i\u00e7in yap\u0131lm\u0131\u015f. B<\/span>u salon \u00f6zel partiler, m\u00fczik toplulu\u011fu ve \u015fark\u0131c\u0131lar\u0131n konserleri i\u00e7in kullan\u0131lm\u0131\u015f.<\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

B\u00fcy\u00fck \u00c7ar\u015f\u0131 (Kayseri \u00c7ar\u015f\u0131s\u0131)<\/strong><\/p>\n

B\u00fcy\u00fck \u00c7ar\u015f\u0131’n\u0131n Nak\u015f-\u0131 Cihan Meydan\u0131\u2019na a\u00e7\u0131lan ana kap\u0131s\u0131, dekoratif\u00a0 mozaiklerle s\u00fcsl\u00fc Kayseri Kap\u0131s\u0131’d\u0131r. Bu nedenle pazar\u0131n bir di\u011fer ismi de Kayseri \u00c7ar\u015f\u0131s\u0131. \u0130ran\u2019\u0131n en \u00f6nemli ve en tarihi pazarlar\u0131ndan biri. Tarihi 11. Y\u00fczy\u0131la kadar giden B\u00fcy\u00fck \u00c7ar\u015f\u0131 Ortado\u011fu\u2019daki en eski ve b\u00fcy\u00fck \u00e7ar\u015f\u0131lar aras\u0131nda yer al\u0131yor.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

\u0130ran\u2019\u0131n en g\u00fczel ve en \u00fcnl\u00fc \u0130sfahan hal\u0131lar\u0131 burada sat\u0131l\u0131yor. Y\u00f6resel el i\u015fleri, her \u00e7e\u015fit baharat, sebze, meyve, hediyelik e\u015fyalar vb. ne ararsan var.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/strong><\/p>\n

Evet \u00e7oook g\u00fczel bir geziydi.<\/p>\n

Daha \u00f6nce birlikte seyahat de etti\u011fimiz eski dostlar\u0131m\u0131z\u0131n bu gezide bizimle olmas\u0131, \u0130ran’da \u00e7ok say\u0131da Azeri T\u00fcrk’\u00fcn\u00fcn olmas\u0131, her yerde g\u00fcler y\u00fczl\u00fc, cana yak\u0131n \u0130ranl\u0131lar’\u0131n varl\u0131\u011f\u0131, iyi bir turla seyahat ve m\u00fckemmel bir rehbere sahip olmak gezi memnuniyetimizi artt\u0131rd\u0131.<\/p>\n

\u0130n\u015fallah Azeri T\u00fcrkler’inin yo\u011fun oldu\u011fu Tebriz ba\u015fta olmak \u00fczere kuzey \u0130ran’a da bir tur yapar\u0131z.<\/p>\n

\u015eimdi sizleri Nak\u015f-\u0131 Cihan’\u0131n gece ayd\u0131nlatmas\u0131 ile masals\u0131 bir aleme b\u00fcr\u00fcnm\u00fc\u015f foto\u011fraflar\u0131yla ba\u015f ba\u015fa b\u0131rak\u0131yorum.<\/p>\n

Ba\u015fka gezilerde tekrar bulu\u015fmak \u00fcmidiyle.<\/p>\n

Sa\u011fl\u0131kl\u0131 kal\u0131n.<\/p>\n

Gezisiz kalmay\u0131n…<\/p>\n

\"\"

Kayseri Kap\u0131s\u0131 taraf\u0131nda \u00fcst katta, meydana hakim bir kafe var. \u0130sfahan’a yolunuz d\u00fc\u015ferse muhakkak girip \u00e7ay ve tatl\u0131 e\u015fli\u011finde bu harika manzaray\u0131 seyredin.<\/span><\/p><\/div>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

\"\"\"\"<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

8. G\u00fcn 3 May\u0131s 2019 Cuma \u015eah Abbas\u2019\u0131n \u015fehri denilen,\u00a0\u0130pek Yolu \u00fczerinde bulunan bu eski \u0130ran ba\u015fkenti do\u011funun en b\u00fcy\u00fck \u015fehriydi. Tarih boyunca sanat, edebiyat ve felsefenin merkezi olmu\u015f bir \u015fehir buras\u0131. G\u00fczelli\u011finin d\u00fcnyaya bedel oldu\u011funu ona \u201cNefse Cihan\u201d yani d\u00fcnyan\u0131n yar\u0131s\u0131 diyerek ifade etmi\u015fler.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":3345,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[332,371],"tags":[376,378,373,372,377,375,333,379,374],"class_list":["post-3260","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-iran","category-isfahan","tag-ali-kapu-sarayi","tag-cehel-sutun","tag-esfahan","tag-geziblogu","tag-hest-behest","tag-imam-meydani","tag-iran","tag-isfahan-muzik-muzesi","tag-seyh-lutfullah-cami"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.yeryuzundebirkacadim.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/3260","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.yeryuzundebirkacadim.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.yeryuzundebirkacadim.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.yeryuzundebirkacadim.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.yeryuzundebirkacadim.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=3260"}],"version-history":[{"count":53,"href":"https:\/\/www.yeryuzundebirkacadim.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/3260\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":3419,"href":"https:\/\/www.yeryuzundebirkacadim.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/3260\/revisions\/3419"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.yeryuzundebirkacadim.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/3345"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.yeryuzundebirkacadim.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=3260"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.yeryuzundebirkacadim.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=3260"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.yeryuzundebirkacadim.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=3260"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}