{"id":3127,"date":"2020-04-13T17:13:00","date_gmt":"2020-04-13T14:13:00","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.yeryuzundebirkacadim.com\/?p=3127"},"modified":"2024-08-19T13:56:26","modified_gmt":"2024-08-19T10:56:26","slug":"siraz","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.yeryuzundebirkacadim.com\/index.php\/2020\/04\/13\/siraz\/","title":{"rendered":"\u015eiraz"},"content":{"rendered":"

5. G\u00fcn: 30 Nisan 2019 Sal\u0131<\/strong><\/p>\n

Bug\u00fcn Yezd’den \u015eiraz’a do\u011fru yol alaca\u011f\u0131z.<\/p>\n

Yezd gibi \u00e7\u00f6l \u015fehirlerinde suyun de\u011feri, ba\u015fka yerlerden daha fazla hissediliyor haliyle. Bu \u015fehirde bir\u00e7ok su deposu<\/strong> bulunuyor. Yolda bunlardan birine u\u011fruyoruz.<\/p>\n

<\/p>\n

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Pasargad Antik \u015eehri<\/strong><\/p>\n

Yezd’e 313 km, \u015eiraz’a 140 km mesafededir.<\/p>\n

UNESCO D\u00fcnya K\u00fclt\u00fcr Miras\u0131 Listesi\u2019nde yer al\u0131yor.<\/p>\n

B\u00fcy\u00fck Kiros taraf\u0131ndan M.\u00d6. 6. y\u00fczy\u0131lda kurulan \u015fehir, Persepolis\u2019ten bile eski bir antik ba\u015fkent. Buras\u0131, I. Darius (Dara) Persepolis\u2019i kurana kadar Ahameni\u015f Hanedanl\u0131\u011f\u0131\u2019n\u0131n ilk ba\u015fkentiymi\u015f. Kurucusu B\u00fcy\u00fck Kiros\u2019un mezar\u0131 da burada bulunuyor.<\/p>\n

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Pasargad Mezar An\u0131t\u0131’n\u0131n bir benzeri Fo\u00e7a yolu \u00fczerinde bir Pers y\u00f6neticisine ait oldu\u011fu d\u00fc\u015f\u00fcn\u00fclen “Ta\u015f Kule” imi\u015f. En k\u0131sa zamanda gideriz in\u015fallah.<\/p>\n

B\u00fcy\u00fck Kiros\u2019un ad\u0131 g\u00fcne\u015fe benzeyen anlam\u0131na geliyor. Medleri yenip Persler’i iktidara ta\u015f\u0131yan B\u00fcy\u00fck Kiros, bir yandan askeri zaferlerle \u00fclkesinin s\u0131n\u0131rlar\u0131n\u0131 b\u00fcy\u00fctm\u00fc\u015f, di\u011fer yandan da topraklar\u0131n\u0131 bir ho\u015fg\u00f6r\u00fc ve bar\u0131\u015f \u00fclkesi haline getirmi\u015f. B\u00fct\u00fcn dinlere sayg\u0131 g\u00f6stermi\u015f. Musevi tap\u0131naklar\u0131na izin vermi\u015f. \u0130lk \u0130nsan Haklar\u0131 Bildirgesi’ni yay\u0131nlanm\u0131\u015f. Ba\u015fta Babilliler olmak \u00fczere t\u00fcm kom\u015fularla uzun bir bar\u0131\u015f d\u00f6nemi ba\u015flam\u0131\u015ft\u0131r. Bu imparatorluk i\u00e7in filmlerde \u00e7izilen k\u00f6t\u00fc tablo yalan yani \ud83d\ude42<\/p>\n

Tanah’ta (Tevrat ve Zebur’u da kapsayan, Musevilik dininin kutsal kitab\u0131) Yahudi k\u00f6leleri serbest b\u0131rakt\u0131\u011f\u0131 i\u00e7in bir mesih olarak an\u0131l\u0131yor.<\/p>\n

Bir T\u00fcrk Devleti olan Saka’larla yapt\u0131\u011f\u0131 sava\u015fta Saka Krali\u00e7esi Tomris taraf\u0131ndan \u00f6ld\u00fcr\u00fclm\u00fc\u015ft\u00fcr.<\/p>\n

Nak\u015f-\u0131 R\u00fcstem\u00a0<\/strong><\/p>\n

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Pasargad’dan 74 km sonra Nak\u015f-\u0131 R\u00fcstem’e var\u0131yoruz. Burada kayalara oyularak yap\u0131lan Ahameni\u015f d\u00f6nemi ve \u00f6ncesine ait kaya kral mezarlar\u0131 bulunuyor. Bat\u0131 Anadolu\u2019daki Frigyal\u0131lar’dan kalma\u00a0 kaya mezarlar\u0131na benziyorlar.\u00a0 Sasani d\u00f6nemine ait \u00e7ok say\u0131da da kabartma var.<\/p>\n

Fars mitolojisi kahraman\u0131 R\u00fcstem tasvirleri nedeniyle buras\u0131 “Nak\u015f-\u0131 R\u00fcstem<\/strong>\u201d ad\u0131 ile an\u0131l\u0131yor.<\/p>\n

Persepolis\u2019in kurucusu I. Darius’un mezar\u0131 ba\u015fta olmak \u00fczere bir\u00e7ok kral\u0131n mezar\u0131 burada bulunuyormu\u015f. \u0130skender buray\u0131 ya\u011fmalad\u0131ktan sonra selefi sayd\u0131\u011f\u0131 Darius\u2019un cesedinin Nak\u015f-i R\u00fcstem\u2019e getirilip di\u011fer Ahameni\u015f h\u00fck\u00fcmdarlar\u0131n yan\u0131na defnedilmesini emrediyor.<\/p>\n

Sasani kabartmalar\u0131nda farkl\u0131 egemenlerin ola\u011fan\u00fcst\u00fc sava\u015f sahneleri temsil edilmi\u015ftir.<\/p>\n

\u015eah I. \u015eapur’un Romal\u0131lar’a kar\u015f\u0131 kazand\u0131\u011f\u0131 zafer resmedilmi\u015f. Bu kabartmada I. \u015eapur at \u00fczerindeyken Valerianus diz \u00e7\u00f6km\u00fc\u015f bir vaziyette, etraflar\u0131nda ise \u00e7ok kanl\u0131 bir sava\u015f\u0131n ge\u00e7ti\u011fi resmedilmi\u015ftir.<\/p>\n

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Ba\u015fka bir kabartmada I. \u015eapur, Anahita’dan (bir \u0130ran tanr\u0131\u00e7as\u0131) kraliyet halkas\u0131n\u0131 al\u0131rken resmedilmi\u015f.<\/p>\n

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Zerd\u00fc\u015ft K\u00fcp\u00fc<\/strong><\/p>\n

\n
<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/section>\n

Kaya mezarlar\u0131n\u0131n yakla\u015f\u0131k 45 metre uza\u011f\u0131nda ve Pers \u0130mparatorlu\u011fu’nun alt\u0131n \u00e7a\u011f\u0131 olan 5. y\u00fczy\u0131lda in\u015fa edilen k\u00fcp \u015feklinde k\u00fc\u00e7\u00fck bir yap\u0131d\u0131r. Zerd\u00fc\u015ftl\u00fc\u011fe ait bir sunak olan bu yap\u0131da devaml\u0131 ate\u015f yak\u0131l\u0131r ve yak\u0131n\u0131nda mezarlar\u0131 bulunan imparatorlar bu \u015fekilde onurland\u0131r\u0131l\u0131rd\u0131.<\/p>\n

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Persepolis\u00a0<\/strong><\/p>\n

UNESCO D\u00fcnya K\u00fclt\u00fcr Miras\u0131 Listesinde yer almaktad\u0131r.<\/p>\n

<\/p>\n

Persepolis panoramik g\u00f6r\u00fcnt\u00fcs\u00fc (Wikipedia’den)<\/p>\n

Persepolis’e Taht-\u0131 Cem\u015fid<\/strong> de deniliyor. Cem\u015fid, \u0130ran k\u00fclt\u00fcr\u00fcn\u00fcn ve gelene\u011finin mitolojik fig\u00fcr\u00fcd\u00fcr. Firdevsi’nin \u015eehname’sinin karakterlerinden biridir. Pi\u015fdadiler s\u00fclalesinin d\u00f6rd\u00fcnc\u00fc ve en b\u00fcy\u00fck kral\u0131 olarak tan\u0131mlanmaktad\u0131r. Ger\u00e7ek ad\u0131 Cem’<\/b>dir. G\u00fczel y\u00fczl\u00fc olmas\u0131ndan \u00f6t\u00fcr\u00fc “\u0131\u015f\u0131k” manas\u0131na gelen \u015eid lakab\u0131 verilmi\u015f ve bundan sonra Cem\u015fid olarak an\u0131lm\u0131\u015ft\u0131r. \u0130nsanlar, cinler, devler, ku\u015flar ve periler \u00fczerinde egemenlik kurar. Terzilik, gemicilik, tabiplik gibi meslekleri insanlara ilk \u00f6\u011freten ki\u015fidir. \u015earab\u0131n ortaya \u00e7\u0131k\u0131\u015f\u0131 da onun zaman\u0131nda olur. Tahta \u00e7\u0131kt\u0131\u011f\u0131 g\u00fcn, Nevruz ilk kez bayram olarak kutlan\u0131r.<\/p>\n

Pers \u0130mparatorlu\u011fu\u2019nun ba\u015fkenti olan Persepolis, M.\u00d6. 6. y\u00fczy\u0131l sonlar\u0131na do\u011fru I. Darius<\/strong> taraf\u0131ndan kurulmu\u015f. Yap\u0131m\u0131 185 y\u0131l s\u00fcrm\u00fc\u015f. Darius’un \u015fehri denilebilir. Bir\u00e7ok k\u00fc\u00e7\u00fck krall\u0131\u011f\u0131 kendine ba\u011flayan Darius “Krallar Kral\u0131” \u00fcnvan\u0131n\u0131 alm\u0131\u015f. Darius ba\u015far\u0131l\u0131 bir idareci. \u0130mparatorlu\u011fun bu en ihti\u015faml\u0131 d\u00f6neminde \u00fclke topraklar\u0131 Hindistan’dan Bulgaristan’a uzanan geni\u015f bir alan\u0131 kapl\u0131yordu.<\/p>\n

Para basan ilk Ahameni\u015f h\u00fck\u00fcmdar\u0131 ayn\u0131 zamanda. Susa\u2019dan Sardes\u2019e kadar uzanan “Kral Yolu”nu in\u015fa ettiren de o.<\/p>\n

D\u00fcnya tarihinde ilklerden biri olarak I. Darius, Persepolis\u2019te \u00e7al\u0131\u015fan i\u015f\u00e7ileri sigorta ettirmi\u015fti. 1. Darius d\u00f6neminde \u00fclkede sigorta, posta ve sulama i\u00e7in kanal sistemleri olu\u015fturulmu\u015ftu. Kanallarla \u00e7ok de\u011ferli olan ya\u011fmur sular\u0131, gerek tar\u0131mda gerekse i\u00e7me suyu olarak de\u011ferlendiriliyordu.<\/p>\n

I. Darius buray\u0131 ba\u015fkent olarak de\u011fil hazine ve ar\u015fiv merkezi<\/strong> olarak d\u00fc\u015f\u00fcnm\u00fc\u015f. Kutlama ve t\u00f6renleri<\/strong> burada yapmay\u0131 planlam\u0131\u015f. Yani “B\u00fcy\u00fck Ahameni\u015f \u0130mparatorlu\u011fu”nu olu\u015fturan halklar\u0131n, senelik bulu\u015fmalar\u0131 s\u0131ras\u0131nda bir araya geldikleri, sembolik bir ba\u015fkentmi\u015f buras\u0131.<\/p>\n

M.\u00d6. 331’de B\u00fcy\u00fck \u0130skender Persler’i yenerek \u015fehri yakm\u0131\u015f.<\/p>\n

Sava\u015ftan sonra saraya girdi\u011finde b\u00fcy\u00fck bir \u015fok ya\u015fad\u0131\u011f\u0131 s\u00f6ylenir. G\u00f6z\u00fcn\u00fcn g\u00f6rd\u00fc\u011f\u00fc ne varsa hepsinin ilahi bir m\u00fckemmellikte oldu\u011funu g\u00f6r\u00fcnce \u201cCennet art\u0131k benim oldu\u201d dedi\u011fi rivayet edilir.<\/p>\n

\u015eehri yakma nedeninin, Pers imparatorlar\u0131ndan birinin Akropol\u2019\u00fc ve Athena tap\u0131na\u011f\u0131n\u0131 yak\u0131p yakmas\u0131 veya Darius’u ve \u015fehrini k\u0131skanmas\u0131 oldu\u011fu d\u00fc\u015f\u00fcn\u00fcl\u00fcyor.<\/p>\n

Bundan sonra \u015fehir, toprak y\u0131\u011f\u0131nlar\u0131 alt\u0131nda kendi haline terkedilmi\u015f, 1930’larda ba\u015flayan arkeolojik \u00e7al\u0131\u015fmalarla yeniden ortaya \u00e7\u0131kar\u0131lm\u0131\u015ft\u0131r.<\/p>\n

\u015eehir; g\u00f6rkemli saray kal\u0131nt\u0131lar\u0131, duvar s\u00fcslemeleri ve heykelleri ile Pers sanat\u0131n\u0131 ve g\u00fcc\u00fcn\u00fc sunuyor.<\/p>\n

Saray\u0131n bulundu\u011fu alana iki geni\u015f merdiven<\/strong>le \u00e7\u0131k\u0131l\u0131yor. Merdivenlerin yan duvarlar\u0131 kral Darius\u2019un rakiplerine g\u00f6zda\u011f\u0131 vermek ve g\u00fcc\u00fcn\u00fc g\u00f6stermek i\u00e7in yapt\u0131rd\u0131\u011f\u0131 devasa b\u00fcy\u00fckl\u00fckteki\u00a0 kabartma heykellerle doldurulmu\u015f.<\/p>\n

Merdivenlerden \u00e7\u0131k\u0131nca Milletler Kap\u0131s\u0131<\/strong>na geliniyor. \u00a0Bu me\u015fhur kap\u0131y\u0131 Kserkes<\/strong> yapt\u0131rm\u0131\u015f.<\/p>\n

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Kap\u0131n\u0131n her iki yan\u0131nda Lamussu (Asurlular\u2019\u0131n koruyucu Tanr\u0131s\u0131) benzeri, y\u00fczleri insan \u015feklinde olan iki bo\u011fa heykeli yer al\u0131yor.<\/p>\n

Milletler Kap\u0131s\u0131ndaki s\u00fctunlardan birinin \u00fczerinde I. Kserkhes taraf\u0131ndan 3 dilde \u00e7ivi yaz\u0131s\u0131 ile \u201cAhura Mazda (Zerd\u00fc\u015ftlerin tanr\u0131s\u0131) her \u015feyi yaratt\u0131. Kserkhes\u2019i de her \u015feyi y\u00f6netmesi ve halk\u0131 mutlu etmesi i\u00e7in kral yapt\u0131\u201d yazd\u0131r\u0131lm\u0131\u015f.<\/p>\n

Biraz ilerde efsanevi Huma ku\u015fu (Simurg) fig\u00fcr\u00fcyle s\u00fcslenmi\u015f s\u00fctun ba\u015fl\u0131klar\u0131 g\u00f6r\u00fcl\u00fcyor.<\/p>\n

Apadana (T\u00f6ren Salonu)<\/strong><\/p>\n

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72 s\u00fctunlu Apadana Saray\u0131 Persepolis\u2019in en b\u00fcy\u00fck saray\u0131 idi. 10000 ki\u015fiyi a\u011f\u0131rlayabilen b\u00fcy\u00fck salonun ta\u015flar\u0131n\u0131 I. Darius M\u0131s\u0131r’dan getirtmi\u015fti.<\/p>\n

Bu salonda krallar taraf\u0131ndan bayramlarda, kabul t\u00f6renlerinde ve Nevruz \u015fenliklerinde Pers krall\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131n d\u00f6rt bir yan\u0131ndan gelenler kabul edilirdi.<\/p>\n

Apadana\u2019n\u0131n do\u011fu cephesi, Fars ve Med askerlerinin s\u0131ral\u0131 bir \u015fekilde simetrik d\u00fczenini g\u00f6steren g\u00fczel oyma ta\u015f i\u015f\u00e7ili\u011fi ile dekore edilmi\u015ftir.<\/p>\n

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Persler’den sonraki en se\u00e7kin ulus olarak kabul edildikleri i\u00e7in Pers ve Med subaylar\u0131 birlikte elele, di\u011fer \u00fclkelerin el\u00e7ilerini Pers Kral\u0131’na takdim etmektedir. Ahameni\u015f \u0130mparatorlu\u011fu\u2019nun halk\u0131n\u0131 temsil eden, her biri geleneksel k\u0131yafetler giyen ve krala hediyeler ta\u015f\u0131yan oyma fig\u00fcrler g\u00f6r\u00fcl\u00fcyor. \u00dcnl\u00fc \u015faraplar\u0131 krala getiren Ermeniler tasvir edilmi\u015f. Arkada da at hediyeleri ile Kapadokyal\u0131lar.<\/p>\n

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R\u00f6lyeflerin di\u011fer ucunda, k\u00fcpeler, torklar ve kol\u00e7aklar giyen Pers ve Med k\u0131yafetlerindeki erkeklerin de\u011fi\u015fik fig\u00fcrleri yer almaktad\u0131r. Bir el lotus \u00e7i\u00e7e\u011fi tutarken, di\u011fer el bir sonraki askerin omzuna veya \u00e7antas\u0131na dokunmaktad\u0131r. Bu, y\u00fczy\u0131llarca ayakta kalan Persler ve Medler aras\u0131ndaki dostluk, nezaket ve birli\u011fin g\u00fczel bir temsilidir.<\/span>\"\"<\/p>\n

Zerd\u00fc\u015ft geleneklerine uygun olan bu fig\u00fcrlerde bo\u011fa; ay\u0131, aslan; g\u00fcne\u015fi ve g\u00fcnebakanlar da; y\u00fczlerini ibadetleri s\u0131ras\u0131nda g\u00fcne\u015fe d\u00f6nen inananlar\u0131 simgeliyor.<\/p>\n

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Ayr\u0131ca imparatorlu\u011fun se\u00e7kin muhaf\u0131zlar\u0131 \u00d6l\u00fcms\u00fczler de, bu kabartmalarda \u00f6zel giysileri sayesinde fark ediliyorlar.<\/p>\n

Toprak alt\u0131nda kald\u0131\u011f\u0131 i\u00e7in bug\u00fcne kadar gelmi\u015f olan Apadama\u2019n\u0131n duvarlar\u0131ndaki kabartmalar Pers sanat\u00e7\u0131lar\u0131n\u0131n eri\u015fti\u011fi g\u00fcc\u00fc ve detaylara verdikleri \u00f6nemi g\u00f6steriyor.<\/p>\n

Tachara (B\u00fcy\u00fck Darius Saray\u0131)<\/strong><\/p>\n

Darius’un k\u0131\u015fl\u0131k saray\u0131d\u0131r. Tachara\u2019n\u0131n iyi korunmu\u015f olmas\u0131 buray\u0131 daha be\u011fenilir k\u0131lmaktad\u0131r.<\/p>\n

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100 S\u00fctunlu Saray (Taht Binas\u0131, Ar\u015fiv ve Hazine Dairesi)\u00a0<\/strong><\/p>\n

Apadana’n\u0131n yan\u0131nda, Persepolis Teras\u0131’n\u0131n en b\u00fcy\u00fck ikinci binas\u0131d\u0131r.\u00a0 Se<\/span>kiz ta\u015f kap\u0131s\u0131, g\u00fcney ve kuzeyde taht sahneleri kabartmalar\u0131yla, do\u011fu ve bat\u0131da, kral\u0131 canavarlarla sava\u015f halinde g\u00f6steren sahnelerle s\u00fcslenmi\u015ftir.<\/span> Kserkes saltanat\u0131n\u0131n ba\u015flang\u0131c\u0131nda Taht Salonu, esas olarak imparatorlu\u011fun t\u00fcm ilgili uluslar\u0131n\u0131n temsilcileri i\u00e7in resepsiyonlar i\u00e7in kullan\u0131ld\u0131.<\/span>\u00a0Daha sonra, Hazine \u00e7ok k\u00fc\u00e7\u00fck oldu\u011fu kan\u0131tland\u0131\u011f\u0131nda, Taht Salonu ayr\u0131ca bir depo olarak ve kraliyet hazinesini sergilemek i\u00e7in kullan\u0131ld\u0131.<\/span><\/p>\n

R\u0131za \u015eah d\u00f6neminde<\/strong>, Pers \u0130mparatorlu\u011fu\u2019nun 2500. kurulu\u015f y\u0131l d\u00f6n\u00fcm\u00fcn\u00fc Persepolis\u2019te g\u00f6rkemli t\u00f6renlerle kutlanm\u0131\u015f. Pehlevi Hanedan\u0131\u2019n\u0131 mensuplar\u0131n\u0131n, \u0130slam \u00f6ncesi k\u00fclt\u00fcre ne kadar \u00f6nem verdi\u011finin g\u00f6stergesi bu t\u00f6renler. Ekim 1971’de, f\u00fctursuzca para harcayarak yap\u0131lan bu kutlamalar d\u00fcnya bas\u0131n\u0131nda b\u00fcy\u00fck bir yank\u0131 uyand\u0131r\u0131yor. T\u00fcm \u00fclkelerden, krallar, devlet ba\u015fkanlar\u0131, prens ve prensesler davet ediliyor. Bu t\u00f6renlerin ihti\u015fam\u0131 dillerden dillere dola\u015f\u0131yor. Kutlamalar i\u00e7in a\u011fa\u00e7land\u0131r\u0131l\u0131p ormana d\u00f6n\u00fc\u015ft\u00fcr\u00fclen alana, d\u00fcnya sosyetesine haz\u0131rlanan \u00e7ad\u0131rlar kuruluyor. Konuklar i\u00e7in helikopterler haz\u0131rlan\u0131yor. K\u0131sacas\u0131 hi\u00e7bir masraftan ka\u00e7\u0131n\u0131lm\u0131yor. T\u00f6ren g\u00fcn\u00fc, \u015eah bir Pers Kral\u0131 ve Farah Diba da bir Pers Krali\u00e7esi kost\u00fcm\u00fcyle \u00e7\u0131k\u0131yor meydana. Hayli kalabal\u0131k bir asker toplulu\u011fuyla birlikte m\u00fcthi\u015f bir ge\u00e7it t\u00f6reni yap\u0131l\u0131yor.<\/p>\n

\u015eah, B\u00fcy\u00fck Cyrus\u2019a \u015f\u00f6yle sesleniyor: “Ey Kiros, B\u00fcy\u00fck Kral, Krallar Kral\u0131, Ahameni\u015f Kral\u0131, \u0130ran \u00fclkesinin kral\u0131! Ben \u0130ran \u015fah\u0131, sana kendimin ve \u00fclkemin selam\u0131n\u0131 getirdim. \u0130ran tarihinin bu y\u00fcce an\u0131nda, senin 2500 y\u0131l \u00f6nce kurdu\u011fun imparatorlu\u011fun \u00e7ocu\u011fu olan ben ve b\u00fct\u00fcn \u0130ranl\u0131lar, senin kabrin \u00f6n\u00fcnde sayg\u0131yla e\u011filiyoruz. Senin \u00f6l\u00fcms\u00fcz hat\u0131ranla ve yeni \u0130ran\u2019\u0131n \u015fanl\u0131 ge\u00e7mi\u015fiyle ba\u011f\u0131n\u0131 yeniden kurdu\u011fu bu anda i\u00e7imizi co\u015fku kapl\u0131yor. Kiros! B\u00fcy\u00fck Kral, Krallar Kral\u0131, soylular\u0131n en soylusu, \u0130ran ve d\u00fcnya tarihinin kahraman\u0131! Huzur i\u00e7inde yat, \u00e7\u00fcnk\u00fc biz uyumuyoruz ve daima uyan\u0131k kalaca\u011f\u0131z”.<\/p>\n

Bu kutlama ve hitap c\u00fcmleleri \u00e7o\u011fu \u0130ranl\u0131’ya fazla iddial\u0131 geliyor. 100 milyon dolar\u0131 bulan kutlamalar\u0131n, halk aras\u0131nda b\u00fcy\u00fck bir tepkiye yol a\u00e7t\u0131\u011f\u0131, bir anlamda Pehlevi\u2019nin kendi ipini \u00e7ektiren \u0130ran rejiminin de\u011fi\u015fmesi i\u00e7in ilk k\u0131v\u0131lc\u0131m\u0131 ba\u015flatt\u0131\u011f\u0131 s\u00f6yleniyor.<\/p>\n

Mollalar iktidara geldiklerinde<\/strong> Persepolis b\u00fcy\u00fck bir sessizli\u011fe g\u00f6m\u00fclm\u00fc\u015f, hatta baz\u0131 s\u00fctunlar\u0131n y\u00fczleri bizzat tahrip edilmi\u015f, gezilmesi yasaklanarak askeri b\u00f6lge ilan edilmi\u015f. Ancak son y\u0131llarda turizmin \u00f6nemini anlamaya ba\u015flayan \u0130ran y\u00f6netimi UNESCO ile i\u015fbirli\u011fi yapmaya raz\u0131 olarak bir dizi ortak projeyle Persepolis\u2019in korunmas\u0131 ve restorasyonu i\u00e7in \u00e7al\u0131\u015fmalara ba\u015flam\u0131\u015f.<\/p>\n

Evet ak\u015fam \u015eiraz’da Chamran otelde kal\u0131yoruz.<\/p>\n

6. G\u00fcn: 1 May\u0131s 2019 \u00c7ar\u015famba<\/strong><\/p>\n

\u015eiraz<\/strong><\/p>\n

\u015eiir, \u015farap, Persepolis, hal\u0131 denilince akla gelen \u015fehir.<\/p>\n

Bir bu\u00e7uk milyona yak\u0131n n\u00fcfusuyla \u0130ran\u2019\u0131n be\u015finci b\u00fcy\u00fck kenti. Persepolis’e 73 km mesafede.<\/p>\n

Persepolis\u2019te bulunan bir tablette M.\u00d6. 2000 y\u0131llar\u0131nda ya\u015fayan bir Elam prensinin ad\u0131n\u0131n \u015eiraz oldu\u011fu \u00f6\u011frenilmi\u015f.<\/p>\n

\u015eiraz, Ahameni\u015f \u0130mparatorlu\u011fu d\u00f6neminde kurulmu\u015f, Sasani Devleti devrinde de \u00f6nemli bir merkez olmu\u015f.<\/p>\n

Orta\u00e7a\u011f \u0130slam d\u00fcnyas\u0131n\u0131n en \u00f6nemli \u015fehirlerinden biri olan \u015eiraz, Zend Hanedanl\u0131\u011f\u0131 (MS 1747-1779) s\u0131ras\u0131nda \u0130ran\u2019\u0131n ba\u015fkenti olmu\u015f. Kendisine Hz. Muhammed\u2019in vekil<\/strong>i \u00fcnvan\u0131n\u0131 lay\u0131k g\u00f6ren Zend Hanedan\u0131 Kerim Han<\/strong>, \u015eiraz\u2019da g\u00f6steri\u015fli eserler yapt\u0131rmay\u0131 istemi\u015f ve bu d\u00f6nemde \u015fehir yeni ba\u015ftan in\u015fa edilmi\u015f. Kerim Han\u2019\u0131n \u015fehri<\/strong> diye an\u0131l\u0131yor.<\/p>\n

\u015earab\u0131n anavatan\u0131<\/strong><\/p>\n

\u015earab\u0131n ana vatan\u0131n\u0131n Mezopotamya oldu\u011fu hakim g\u00f6r\u00fc\u015ft\u00fcr. Buras\u0131 7000 y\u0131ll\u0131k orijinal kil kaplar\u0131yla birlikte \u015faraba dair d\u00fcnyan\u0131n en eski kal\u0131nt\u0131lar\u0131n\u0131n ke\u015ffedilmi\u015f oldu\u011fu \u015fehirdir.<\/p>\n

Efsaneye g\u00f6re<\/strong> Pers Kral\u0131 Cem\u015fid \u00fcz\u00fcm\u00fc \u00e7ok severmi\u015f. \u00dclkenin bir\u00e7ok yerine \u00fcz\u00fcm ba\u011flar\u0131 ektirmi\u015f. Bir sene \u00fcr\u00fcn \u00e7ok fazla olunca t\u00fcketilememi\u015f ve kalanlar saray\u0131n ambar\u0131na indirilmi\u015f. \u00dcz\u00fcmler sular\u0131n\u0131 salarak de\u011fi\u015fik bir tada b\u00fcr\u00fcnm\u00fc\u015fler. Zehirli oldu\u011fu d\u00fc\u015f\u00fcn\u00fclerek el s\u00fcr\u00fclmemi\u015f. Sultan\u2019\u0131n cariyelerinden birinin ge\u00e7meyen ba\u015f a\u011fr\u0131s\u0131 olunca bu suyu i\u00e7erek intihar etmek istemi\u015f. Ama \u00f6lece\u011fi yerde daha canlan\u0131nca bu durum Sultan\u2019a anlat\u0131lm\u0131\u015f. Cem\u015fid de tatm\u0131\u015f ve be\u011fenmi\u015f. Bundan sonra \u00fcr\u00fcn\u00fcn en az yar\u0131s\u0131 \u015farap yap\u0131lmaya ba\u015flanm\u0131\u015f.<\/p>\n

Ve \u015farap rubailerde, \u015fiirlerde, a\u015fklarda, d\u00fc\u011f\u00fcnlerde yerini alm\u0131\u015f.<\/p>\n

Halifeler d\u00f6neminde \u015eiraz\u2019dan Ba\u011fdat\u2019a \u015farap yollan\u0131yormu\u015f. 1398\u2019de Delhi\u2019yi ele ge\u00e7iren Timur, kendisine ikram edilen \u015farab\u0131 \u00e7ok sever ve bu \u015farab\u0131n nerden geldi\u011fini \u00f6\u011frenir. Daha sonraki y\u0131llarda \u015eiraz\u2019\u0131 ele ge\u00e7iren Timur ba\u011flardan tek dal koparan\u0131n ellerinin kesilece\u011fini ilan eder. Ve Mo\u011follar \u015eiraz\u2019\u0131n an\u0131tlar\u0131na da, \u015farap ba\u011flar\u0131na da dokunmazlar.<\/p>\n

Daha sonraki y\u0131llarda \u015farap i\u00e7in makbul olan \u015eiraz k\u00f6kleri Avrupa\u2019ya yay\u0131lm\u0131\u015ft\u0131r.<\/p>\n

Ama \u0130slam Devrimi sonras\u0131 \u0130ran\u2019da \u015farap yap\u0131m\u0131 yasaklanm\u0131\u015ft\u0131r.<\/p>\n

Firuzabad<\/strong><\/p>\n

Sabah ilk i\u015f olarak Firuzabad (G\u00fcr) kasabas\u0131na (\u015eiraz’a 111 km) gidiyoruz. Burada Ka\u015fgai T\u00fcrkleri’nin bulundu\u011fu bir k\u00f6ye u\u011fray\u0131p hal\u0131 bak\u0131yoruz.<\/p>\n

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Ard\u0131ndan Arda\u015fir Saray<\/strong> kal\u0131nt\u0131lar\u0131n\u0131 g\u00f6rmeye gidiyoruz. Sasani \u0130mparatorlu\u011fu’nun kurucusu Kral I. Arda\u015fir taraf\u0131ndan yap\u0131lm\u0131\u015ft\u0131r. Saray \u00fc\u00e7 kubbeli g\u00f6rkemli bir yap\u0131. Bat\u0131l\u0131 modellere esinlenmi\u015f. Ancak, bu \u00e7a\u011fdaki \u00e7o\u011fu Roma kubbesinin aksine, Firuzabad saray\u0131ndaki kubbeler betondan de\u011fil tu\u011fladan yap\u0131lm\u0131\u015ft\u0131r. Mimarl\u0131k tarihi a\u00e7\u0131s\u0131ndan, \u00f6rne\u011fin Roma’daki Panteon’dan daha ileri imi\u015fler.<\/p>\n

Yap\u0131da bulunan mahkeme binas\u0131.<\/p>\n

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\u015eah \u00c7era\u011f<\/strong> T\u00fcrbesi (I\u015f\u0131klar\u0131n \u015eah\u0131)<\/strong><\/p>\n

\u015eiiler’in 8. \u0130mam\u0131 olan \u0130mam Reza’n\u0131n 835 y\u0131l\u0131nda \u00f6ld\u00fcr\u00fclen karde\u015fi Seyyid Emir Ahmed g\u00f6m\u00fcl\u00fcd\u00fcr. Abbasi halifesi Memun taraf\u0131ndan \u00f6ld\u00fcr\u00fclm\u00fc\u015ft\u00fcr. Bu olay, \u0130ran\u2019da \u015eiili\u011fin yay\u0131lmaya ba\u015flad\u0131\u011f\u0131 tarih olarak kabul edilir. Halifeler, \u0130mamlar\u0131 sevmezler ve ellerine f\u0131rsat ge\u00e7erse \u00f6ld\u00fcrt\u00fcrlerdi. Seyid Mir Ahmad, Halife olmamas\u0131na ra\u011fmen halk taraf\u0131ndan \u00e7ok sevildi\u011fi i\u00e7in \u00f6ld\u00fcr\u00fclmesinden sonra, insanlar aralar\u0131nda para toplayarak bu t\u00fcrbeyi finanse etmi\u015flerdi. T\u00fcrbenin in\u015faat\u0131 50 y\u0131l s\u00fcrm\u00fc\u015ft\u00fcr. \u015eah \u00c7era\u011f T\u00fcrbesi ilk olarak 12. y\u00fczy\u0131lda yap\u0131lm\u0131\u015f. Ka\u00e7ar d\u00f6neminde geni\u015fletilen t\u00fcrbe, \u0130slam Cumhuriyeti d\u00f6neminde de b\u00fcy\u00fct\u00fclm\u00fc\u015f.<\/p>\n

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\u015eiili\u011fin en \u00f6nemli kutsal ziyaret yerlerinden birisi olan t\u00fcrbe kompleksindeki binada bulunan kubbe, minarede ve duvarlarda yer alan m\u00fckemmel \u00e7ini ve mozaikler olduk\u00e7a zevkli ve incelikli. Adete dantel gibi i\u015flenmi\u015fler.\u00a0Bu \u00e7inili kubbesi ve minareleri ile\u00a0 gece dev bir \u015famdan g\u00f6r\u00fcn\u00fcm\u00fcnde oluyormu\u015f.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

T\u00fcrbeye girmeden \u00f6nce giyinmeleri i\u00e7in bayanlara \u00e7ar\u015faf da\u011f\u0131t\u0131l\u0131yor. Nas\u0131l\u0131z \ud83d\ude42<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

T\u00fcrbeye girenler \u00f6nce g\u00fcm\u00fc\u015ften parmakl\u0131kl\u0131 kabri ziyaret ediyor.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

T\u00fcrbenin i\u00e7i rengarenk camlar, k\u0131r\u0131k ayna par\u00e7alar\u0131, g\u00f6rkemli avizeler, alt\u0131n kaplamal\u0131 pencere ve vitraylar ile \u0131\u015f\u0131\u011f\u0131 yans\u0131tarak g\u00fc\u00e7l\u00fc bir \u0131\u015f\u0131k oyunu yarat\u0131yor.<\/p>\n

Biraz abart\u0131l\u0131 buldum ben. Ruhaniyetten d\u00fcnyevili\u011fe ge\u00e7ilmi\u015f gibi geldi.<\/p>\n

Kerim Han Kalesi<\/strong><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

Kaleyi 1766 tarihinde Kraliyet alan\u0131 olarak yapt\u0131rm\u0131\u015ft\u0131r.<\/p>\n

\u015eiraz<\/strong>\u00a0\u015fehrinin \u00f6nemli tarihi eserlerinden olan\u00a0Kerim Han Kalesi<\/strong>, \u0130sfahan’da \u015eah Abbas\u2019\u0131n yapt\u0131rd\u0131\u011f\u0131 \u00fcnl\u00fc eserleriyle boy \u00f6l\u00e7\u00fc\u015fmek \u00fczere, 12 bin i\u015f\u00e7i \u00e7al\u0131\u015ft\u0131r\u0131larak, 4000 metrekare alan \u00fczerinde in\u015fa edilmi\u015f.<\/p>\n

Surlar\u0131n d\u00f6rt k\u00f6\u015fesinde, y\u00fcksekli\u011fi 14 metre olan d\u00f6rt bur\u00e7 bulunuyor. Bu bur\u00e7lardan birisi e\u011fiktir. Kulenin hamam\u0131ndan s\u0131zan sular kalenin kulelerinden birinin temellerine zarar vermi\u015f ve kule e\u011frilmi\u015ftir.<\/p>\n

Kale giri\u015finde Fars\u00e7a olarak \u201c\u015eiraz\u2019a yeni gelen bir gezgin, uzun s\u00fcre Kerim Han saray\u0131n\u0131n endam\u0131n\u0131 \u00f6vmekten geri duramayacakt\u0131r\u201d yazmaktad\u0131r.<\/p>\n

Kalenin giri\u015f kap\u0131lar\u0131ndan birinin \u00fczerinde Zalo\u011flu R\u00fcstem\u2019in i\u015flerinden biri olan canavar\u0131 \u00f6ld\u00fcrmesi canland\u0131r\u0131lm\u0131\u015ft\u0131r.<\/p>\n

Geni\u015f bah\u00e7esi, \u00f6zel dua alan\u0131 ve hamam\u0131 ile \u00f6ne \u00e7\u0131kan kale, havuzlar\u0131, i\u00e7 mekandaki vitraylar\u0131, ah\u015fap i\u015flemeleri ve minyat\u00fcrleri ile dikkati \u00e7ekiyor.<\/p>\n

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Vekil \u00c7ar\u015f\u0131s\u0131<\/strong><\/p>\n

Biraz \u00e7ar\u015f\u0131da geziyoruz.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

Vekil Cami (Kerim Han Cami)<\/strong><\/p>\n

Zend Hanedan\u0131 Kerim Han taraf\u0131ndan 1773’de yapt\u0131r\u0131lan bir camidir.<\/p>\n

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Bir cafe’de oturup falude yeme\u011fe karar veriyoruz. Felude; ni\u015fasta, buz, \u015feker, g\u00fcl suyu ile yap\u0131lan serinletici bir geleneksel \u0130ran tatl\u0131s\u0131. Genellikle limon suyu ile servis ediliyor. Be\u011fendik mi? hay\u0131r. Ama denemeden bilemezdik \ud83d\ude42<\/p>\n

Ak\u015fam yeme\u011finde, m\u00fczik e\u015fli\u011finde geleneksel dans g\u00f6sterilerinin de oldu\u011fu Haft Khan isimli l\u00fcks bir restorana gidiyoruz.<\/p>\n

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7. G\u00fcn: 2 May\u0131s 2019 Per\u015fembe<\/strong><\/p>\n

Sabahleyin \u00e7oook g\u00fczel bir yere gidiyoruz.<\/p>\n

\u0130rem (Eram) Ba\u011flar\u0131<\/strong><\/p>\n

UNESCO D\u00fcnya Miras\u0131 Listesi\u2019nde ve koruma alt\u0131nda.<\/p>\n

Kur’an’da ge\u00e7en cennet bah\u00e7elerinden birine atfen bu isim verilmi\u015f. Tarihi, Sel\u00e7uklu hanedan\u0131na (yakla\u015f\u0131k 400 y\u0131l \u00f6nce) kadar uzan\u0131rken, bah\u00e7edeki eski bina Ka\u00e7ar d\u00f6nemine aittir. 19. y\u00fczy\u0131lda yap\u0131lm\u0131\u015f binan\u0131n \u00f6n cephesindeki \u00e7iniler olduk\u00e7a etkileyici. Haf\u0131z ve Sadi gibi b\u00fcy\u00fck \u015fairlerin \u015fiirleri taraf\u0131ndan tasarlanan karolarla s\u00fcslenmi\u015f ayr\u0131nt\u0131l\u0131 bir mimariye sahiptir.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

Bah\u00e7e; selvi a\u011fa\u00e7lar\u0131, kokulu \u00e7i\u00e7ekler ve portakal a\u011fa\u00e7lar\u0131yla \u00e7evrili harika bir atmosfere sahiptir. Hep burada kalas\u0131m\u0131z var. Yoksa cennette miyiz \ud83d\ude42<\/span><\/p>\n

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A\u015fk\u0131n ve \u015eiirin \u015eehri: \u015eiraz<\/strong><\/p>\n

\u015eiraz\u2019\u0131n i\u00e7inden \u00e7\u0131kan,\u00a0\u0130ran\u00a0\u015fiirinin en g\u00fc\u00e7l\u00fc 2 \u015fairi\u00a0Haf\u0131z\u00a0<\/strong>ve\u00a0Sadi<\/strong>,\u00a0halk\u0131 taraf\u0131ndan \u00e7ok b\u00fcy\u00fck sayg\u0131 g\u00f6r\u00fcyor. \u0130ran\u2019\u0131n di\u011fer b\u00fcy\u00fck \u015fairleri\u00a0ise Nesimi<\/strong>,\u00a0Hayyam<\/strong>\u00a0ve\u00a0Firdevsi\u2019dir. <\/strong><\/p>\n

\u0130ran\u2019da her evde bulunan 4 kitaptan s\u00f6z ediyorlar: \u201cKur\u2019an, Haf\u0131z\u2019\u0131n Divan\u2019\u0131, Sadi\u2019nin Bostan ve G\u00fclistan\u2019\u0131 ve Firdevsi\u2019nin \u015eehnamesi<\/strong>\u201d.<\/strong><\/p>\n

\u015eiir; \u0130ran\u2019da herkesin hayat\u0131nda olan, Pers k\u00fclt\u00fcr\u00fcnden g\u00fcn\u00fcm\u00fcze \u00f6nemi nesilden nesile aktar\u0131lan bir k\u00fclt\u00fcr. \u015eairler, y\u00fczy\u0131llarca sultanlar ve varl\u0131kl\u0131, entellekt\u00fcel aileler taraf\u0131ndan de\u011fer verilip kollanm\u0131\u015f.<\/p>\n

Haf\u0131z-\u0131 \u015eirazi (1315 – 1390) ve T\u00fcrbesi<\/strong><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

\u015eiraz’da do\u011fmu\u015ftur. Kur\u2019an-\u0131 Kerim\u2019i ezberledi\u011fi i\u00e7in \u201cHaf\u0131z\u201d, memleketinden dolay\u0131 da \u201c\u015eirazi\u201d lakab\u0131yla an\u0131l\u0131yor.<\/p>\n

O, kendi \u00e7a\u011f\u0131nda bile b\u00fcy\u00fck \u00fcne kavu\u015fan \u0130ran\u2019\u0131n ender \u015fairlerinden birisiydi. Sadi’nin aksine ya\u015fam\u0131 boyunca \u015eiraz’dan hi\u00e7 ayr\u0131lmam\u0131\u015f. Bir kere niyetlenmi\u015f ama yar\u0131 yoldan “D\u00fcnyay\u0131 neden g\u00f6rmeye gideyim ki, b\u00fct\u00fcn d\u00fcnya \u015eiraz’da” diyerek geri d\u00f6nm\u00fc\u015f.<\/p>\n

Haf\u0131z, \u0130ran s\u0131n\u0131rlar\u0131n\u0131 a\u015fan bir \u00fcne sahip.\u00a0\u015eiirlerinden yola \u00e7\u0131karak iyi bir medrese e\u011fitiminden ge\u00e7ti\u011fi ve \u00f6zellikle tasavvuf k\u00fclt\u00fcr\u00fcne a\u015fina oldu\u011fu d\u00fc\u015f\u00fcn\u00fcl\u00fcyor.<\/p>\n

\u015eair, \u015fiirinde a\u011f\u0131rl\u0131kl\u0131 tema olarak \u201csevgi, \u0130slam, \u015farap\u201d \u00f6\u011felerini i\u015flemi\u015f. Divan\u2019\u0131 do\u011fuda hatta d\u00fcnyada en \u00e7ok okunan birka\u00e7 eserden birisi.<\/p>\n

Zevk-\u00fc safa ve i\u015fret fidan\u0131 yeti\u015fiyor, g\u00fcl yanakl\u0131 saki nerede?<\/em><\/p>\n

Bahar r\u00fczgar\u0131 esiyor, lezzetli \u015faraplar nerede?<\/em><\/p>\n

Her taze g\u00fcl daima bir g\u00fcl yanakl\u0131y\u0131 hat\u0131rlatmakta<\/em><\/p>\n

Fakat s\u00f6z dinleyecek kulak, ibret alacak g\u00f6z nerede? (Haf\u0131z-\u0131 \u015eirazi)<\/em><\/p>\n

T\u00fcrbeye girince grubumuzun rehberi Rana han\u0131m ve grubumuzdaki Kamil Bey kar\u015f\u0131l\u0131kl\u0131 Haf\u0131z’\u0131n Divan’\u0131ndan okudular ve \u015fu hikayeyi anlatt\u0131lar.<\/p>\n

Timur Han,\u00a0\u015eiraz<\/strong> halk\u0131na alt\u0131ndan kalkamayacaklar\u0131 yeni vergiler koyuyor. \u015eirazl\u0131lar da, Haf\u0131z-\u0131 \u015eirazi\u2019yi vergilerin azalt\u0131lmas\u0131 konusunda g\u00f6r\u00fc\u015fmek i\u00e7in Timur Han’a g\u00f6nderiyorlar.<\/p>\n

Haf\u0131z-\u0131 \u015eirazi\u2019yi kabul eden Timur Han, Haf\u0131z\u2019\u0131n \u015fu beytini okur:<\/p>\n

E\u011fer an T\u00fcrk-i \u015eir\u00e2z\u00ee bedest \u00e2red dil-i m\u00e2r\u00e2\/Beh\u00e2l-i hind\u00fbye\u015f bah\u015fem, Semerkand \u00fc Buh\u00e2r\u00e2-r\u00e2\u2026<\/em><\/p>\n

(E\u011fer o \u015eirazl\u0131 g\u00fczel bize iltifat eder, g\u00f6nl\u00fcm\u00fcz\u00fc al\u0131r, a\u015fk\u0131m\u0131z\u0131 kabul eylerse; yana\u011f\u0131ndaki siyah ben i\u00e7in Semerkand ve Buhara\u2019y\u0131 ba\u011f\u0131\u015flard\u0131m\u2026)<\/em><\/p>\n

Sonra der ki;<\/p>\n

\u201cSen ki sevgilisinin y\u00fcz\u00fcndeki bir ben i\u00e7in Semerkand ve Buhara\u2019y\u0131 ba\u011f\u0131\u015flayacak kadar zenginsin de\u00a0<\/em>ya nice yoksulluktan s\u00f6z eder ve sald\u0131\u011f\u0131m\u0131z vergiyi \u00f6demezsin?!\u201d<\/em><\/p>\n

Haf\u0131z\u2019\u0131n Timur Han\u2019a cevab\u0131 dikkat \u00e7ekicidir:<\/p>\n

\u201cHan\u2019\u0131m, size yanl\u0131\u015f demi\u015fler” diyerek kelimelerle oynar. “Semerkant yerine semen gent, yani 3 kilo \u015feker, Buhara yerine du hurma yani 2 hurma dedim” der:)<\/em><\/p>\n

Bir\u00e7ok b\u00fcy\u00fck d\u00fc\u015f\u00fcn\u00fcr, \u015eair Haf\u0131z\u2019\u0131n etkisinde kalarak, d\u00fcnya edebiyat\u0131na y\u00f6n veren \u00e7ok de\u011ferli eserlere imza atm\u0131\u015flard\u0131r.<\/p>\n

Hammer’\u0131n yazd\u0131\u011f\u0131 \u201cOsmanl\u0131 Tarihi\u201d adl\u0131 eseri okuyan Alman \u015fairi Goethe, onun sayesinde Haf\u0131z\u2019\u0131n \u015fiirlerine ula\u015fm\u0131\u015f, ondan etkilenmi\u015f ve “Do\u011fu-Bat\u0131 \u00a0Divan\u0131” adl\u0131 eseri kaleme alm\u0131\u015ft\u0131r.<\/p>\n

D\u00fcnya yar\u0131n batacak da olsa,
\nSeninle Haf\u0131z, sadece seninle
\nGirmek isterim m\u00fcsabakaya!
\nTasada ve k\u0131van\u00e7ta
\n\u0130kiz karde\u015f olal\u0131m! (Goethe,\u00a0Do\u011fu-Bat\u0131 Divan\u0131)<\/em><\/p>\n

\u015eairimiz Yahya Kemal Beyatl\u0131 ise Rind\u2019lerin \u00d6l\u00fcm\u00fc<\/strong> \u015fiirinde Haf\u0131z\u2019dan bahseder:<\/p>\n

Haf\u0131z\u2019\u0131n kabri olan bah\u00e7ede bir g\u00fcl varm\u0131\u015f.\u00a0 <\/em><\/p>\n

Yeniden her g\u00fcn a\u00e7arm\u0131\u015f kanayan rengiyle,<\/em><\/p>\n

Gece b\u00fclb\u00fcl a\u011faran vakte kadar a\u011flarm\u0131\u015f.<\/em><\/p>\n

Eski \u015eiraz\u2019\u0131 hayal ettiren ahengiyle.<\/em><\/p>\n

\u00d6l\u00fcm asude bahar \u00fclkesidir bir rinde.<\/em><\/p>\n

G\u00f6nl\u00fc her yerde buhurdan gibi y\u0131llarca t\u00fcter<\/em><\/p>\n

Ve serin serviler alt\u0131nda kalan kabrinde<\/em><\/p>\n

Her seher bir g\u00fcl a\u00e7ar, her gece bir b\u00fclb\u00fcl \u00f6ter. (Y. Kemal Beyatl\u0131)<\/em><\/p>\n

\u00d6ld\u00fc\u011f\u00fcnde de t\u00fcm \u00f6mr\u00fcn\u00fc ge\u00e7irdi\u011fi \u015eiraz\u2019a g\u00f6m\u00fclmek isteyen Haf\u0131z\u2019\u0131n dile\u011fi yerine getirilmi\u015f.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

Nasir El-M\u00fclk Cami\u00a0<\/strong><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

Pembe \u00e7inili i\u00e7 dekoru nedeniyle Pembe Cami olarak da bilinir.<\/p>\n

Ka\u00e7ar hanedan\u0131 Nasir el-M\u00fclk taraf\u0131ndan 1876\u20131888 y\u0131llar\u0131 aras\u0131nda yap\u0131lm\u0131\u015f. Be\u015f i\u00e7 b\u00fckeyli dizayn\u0131 ve g\u00f6kku\u015fa\u011f\u0131 gibi renkli vitraylar\u0131yla t\u00fcm \u0130ran\u2019\u0131n en renkli camisi. Renk c\u00fcmb\u00fc\u015f\u00fc \u00f6\u011flene kadar izlenebiliyor.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

Son dura\u011f\u0131m\u0131z olan \u0130sfahan’a do\u011fru yola revan oluyoruz. 5,5-6 saatlik bir yolumuz var. Gece \u0130sfahan’da Avin hotelde kal\u0131yoruz.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

5. G\u00fcn: 30 Nisan 2019 Sal\u0131 Bug\u00fcn Yezd’den \u015eiraz’a do\u011fru yol alaca\u011f\u0131z. Yezd gibi \u00e7\u00f6l \u015fehirlerinde suyun de\u011feri, ba\u015fka yerlerden daha fazla hissediliyor haliyle. Bu \u015fehirde bir\u00e7ok su deposu bulunuyor. Yolda bunlardan birine u\u011fruyoruz.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":3251,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[332,364],"tags":[369,368,333,365,367,366,338,334,370],"class_list":["post-3127","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-iran","category-siraz","tag-ardasir","tag-firuzabad","tag-iran","tag-kerimhankalesi","tag-naks-i-rustem","tag-pasargad","tag-persepolis","tag-persler","tag-sah-cerag"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.yeryuzundebirkacadim.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/3127","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.yeryuzundebirkacadim.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.yeryuzundebirkacadim.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.yeryuzundebirkacadim.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.yeryuzundebirkacadim.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=3127"}],"version-history":[{"count":55,"href":"https:\/\/www.yeryuzundebirkacadim.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/3127\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":3424,"href":"https:\/\/www.yeryuzundebirkacadim.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/3127\/revisions\/3424"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.yeryuzundebirkacadim.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/3251"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.yeryuzundebirkacadim.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=3127"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.yeryuzundebirkacadim.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=3127"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.yeryuzundebirkacadim.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=3127"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}