Sevilla-Granada (G\u0131rnata) aras\u0131 yakla\u015f\u0131k 250 km. Ak\u015fam \u015fehre var\u0131yoruz. Otelin \u00f6nerdi\u011fi otoparka gidiyor yine Vefa. 2 g\u00fcn i\u00e7in 30 euro veriyoruz. Bu otopark paralar\u0131 bana a\u011f\u0131r geldi nedense. T\u00fcrkiye’de otellerin otopark\u0131 oldu\u011fundan pek al\u0131\u015fk\u0131n de\u011filiz ekstradan para vermeye.<\/p>\n
Otele yerle\u015ftikten sonra Albayz\u0131n Mahellesi’ne do\u011fru El Hamra’n\u0131n bulundu\u011fu tepeyi sa\u011f\u0131m\u0131za al\u0131p bir gece ke\u015ffi yap\u0131yoruz.<\/p>\n
D\u00f6n\u00fc\u015fte de dar, trafi\u011fe kapal\u0131, hareketli Navas caddesinde La Chicota’da kahve ve sangri i\u00e7iyoruz.<\/p>\n
<\/p>\n
3. G\u00fcn 4 Nisan 2017 Sal\u0131<\/strong><\/p>\n Granada co\u011frafi konumu nedeni ile ad\u0131n\u0131 nardan alm\u0131\u015f. En g\u00f6rkemli d\u00f6nemlerini 1238-1492 y\u0131llar\u0131 aras\u0131nda Nusayri (Nasri) Devleti zaman\u0131nda ya\u015fam\u0131\u015f. El Hamra Saray\u0131’n\u0131n g\u00f6lgesinde bug\u00fcn eski ihti\u015fam\u0131ndan uzak, m\u00fctevazi bir ya\u015fam i\u00e7inde olan \u015fehir, End\u00fcl\u00fcs’te kaybedilen son kale olmu\u015f.<\/p>\n Tarihi Granada \u015fehri; Albayz\u0131n, El Hamra ve Sakromonte adl\u0131 \u00fc\u00e7 tepe \u00fczerine kurulu.<\/p>\n \u00d6nemli iki meydan\u0131: Bib-Rambla ve Nueva.<\/p>\n Sabah kahvelerimizi otele yak\u0131n ve yolumuz \u00fczerinde bulunan La Chicota’da i\u00e7tikten sonra Granada Katedraline do\u011fru gidiyoruz.<\/p>\n 1. Bib Rambla Meydan\u0131<\/strong><\/p>\n \u015eehir merkezindeki Bib Rambla meydan\u0131. Katedral arkadan g\u00f6r\u00fcl\u00fcyor.<\/p>\n 2. Granada Katedrali ve Kraliyet \u015eapeli<\/strong><\/p>\n Reconquista’n\u0131n \u00a0ard\u0131ndan eski Granada Ulu Cami y\u0131k\u0131l\u0131yor. \u00d6nce Kraliyet \u015eapeli (Capilla Real), daha sonra hemen yan\u0131na b\u00fcy\u00fck \u015fehir katedrali (Capilla Mayor) in\u015fa ediliyor.<\/p>\n Kraliyet \u015eapeli<\/strong><\/p>\n \u0130spanya’da Gotik tarzda in\u015fa edilmi\u015f son dini yap\u0131. Kral Ferdinand, Krali\u00e7e \u0130sabel, k\u0131zlar\u0131 Deli Juana ve onun e\u015finin mezar\u0131 bulunuyor. Ayr\u0131ca Kraliyet ailesine ait baz\u0131 e\u015fyalar sergileniyor.<\/p>\n B\u00fcy\u00fck Katedral<\/strong><\/p>\n \u00d6n y\u00fcz\u00fc Barok, kubbesi R\u00f6nesans, g\u00f6vdesi Gotik tarzda in\u015fa edilmi\u015f. 45 metre y\u00fcksekli\u011findeki kubbesi ve geni\u015f hacmi ile heybetli bir kilise. Ancak yap\u0131lar\u0131n aras\u0131nda s\u0131k\u0131\u015f\u0131p kalm\u0131\u015f. Yap\u0131m\u0131na 1532’de ba\u015flan\u0131p 1704’te bitti\u011fi i\u00e7in bu s\u00fcre zarf\u0131nda ibadet yeri i\u00e7in kilisenin g\u00fcneydo\u011fu taraf\u0131ndaki El Sagrario Kilisesi kullan\u0131lm\u0131\u015f.<\/p>\n 3. Al – Caiceria<\/strong><\/p>\n Katedralin kar\u015f\u0131 soka\u011f\u0131nda, \u00e7ok say\u0131da d\u00fckkandan olu\u015fan\u00a0ince uzun bir \u00e7ar\u015f\u0131. End\u00fcl\u00fcs M\u00fcsl\u00fcmanlar\u0131 zaman\u0131ndan kalma. \u00a0\u0130smi ise Romal\u0131lar zaman\u0131ndan kalma. Roma imparatoru Justinian (Arap\u00e7ada Kayzer) Arap t\u00fcccarlara \u00fclkedeki pazarlarda ipek satma izni verdi\u011fi i\u00e7in bu t\u00fcr pazarlara El-Kayzeriyye (Kayzer’in Mekan\u0131) denilirmi\u015f. \u0130sim \u0130spanyolca’da Alcaiceria’ya d\u00f6n\u00fc\u015fm\u00fc\u015f. 1843’teki b\u00fcy\u00fck yang\u0131nda pazar\u0131n b\u00fcy\u00fck b\u00f6l\u00fcm\u00fc yanm\u0131\u015f. Yerine k\u00fc\u00e7\u00fck bir benzeri yap\u0131lm\u0131\u015f.<\/p>\n \u015eehrin merkez k\u0131sm\u0131nda End\u00fcl\u00fcs d\u00f6neminden kalan iki eser vard\u0131r. Biri Al-Madraza di\u011feri Corral del Carbon.<\/p>\n 4. Al-Madraza (Medrese)<\/strong><\/p>\n Yine M\u00fcsl\u00fcman d\u00f6neminden kalma eski bir medrese. Katedral’in kar\u015f\u0131s\u0131nda bulunuyor.<\/p>\n \u0130ki katl\u0131, ortas\u0131nda avlu bulunan ince uzun bir bina. 14. y\u00fczy\u0131lda Sultan 1. Yusuf taraf\u0131ndan yap\u0131ld\u0131\u011f\u0131 i\u00e7in Yusufiyye olarak da bilinirmi\u015f. \u0130\u015fgalden sonra \u015fehir kul\u00fcb\u00fc olarak kullan\u0131lan bina bir d\u00f6nem ku\u015fatmada kahramanl\u0131k g\u00f6steren 24 \u015f\u00f6valyenin hizmetine tahsis edilmi\u015f. 18. y\u00fczy\u0131lda d\u0131\u015f g\u00f6r\u00fcn\u00fcm\u00fc tamamen de\u011fi\u015ftirilip Barok desenlerle s\u00fcslenmi\u015f. Mescit k\u0131sm\u0131 ise hi\u00e7 ellenmeden muhafaza edilmi\u015f.<\/p>\n \u00dcst katta oyma i\u015fi ah\u015fap tavan.<\/p>\n Bir d\u00f6nem Belediye Binas\u0131 olarak da kullan\u0131lm\u0131\u015f olan yap\u0131, \u015fu anda Granada \u00dcniversitesi’ne ait.<\/p>\n Yol \u00fcst\u00fcnde bir meydanda Kristof Kolomb’un Krali\u00e7e \u0130sabel’den ke\u015fifleri i\u00e7in yard\u0131m istemesini temsil eden heykel.<\/p>\n 5. Corral del Carbon<\/strong><\/p>\n End\u00fcl\u00fcs d\u00f6neminden kalan yap\u0131 y\u0131k\u0131lmadan g\u00fcn\u00fcm\u00fcze ula\u015fan tek kervansaray \u00f6rne\u011fidir. M\u00fcsl\u00fcman egemenli\u011fi zaman\u0131nda t\u00fcccarlar\u0131n konaklad\u0131\u011f\u0131 kervansaray, Hristiyan d\u00f6neminde ise k\u00f6m\u00fcrc\u00fc deposu ve pazar\u0131 olarak kullan\u0131lm\u0131\u015f. Bir d\u00f6nem tiyatro g\u00f6sterileri i\u00e7in merkez olmu\u015f. \u015eimdilerde turizm bilgi b\u00fcrosu olarak hizmet veriyor. Yaz geceleri de Flamenko g\u00f6sterileri yap\u0131l\u0131yormu\u015f.<\/p>\n Buray\u0131 gezerken b\u00fcronun duvar\u0131na ast\u0131klar\u0131 yaz\u0131da may\u0131s ay\u0131na kadar El Hamra biletlerinin bitti\u011fi yaz\u0131l\u0131yd\u0131.<\/p>\n El Hamra i\u00e7in g\u00fcnl\u00fck kontenjan belirleniyor ve kontenjandan fazlas\u0131 sat\u0131lm\u0131yormu\u015f. Bir de sabah s\u0131raya girenlerden al\u0131nan bir kontenjan var. Ama bunun i\u00e7in sabah \u00e7ok erken saatte kalkmak gerekiyor. Riske atamazd\u0131k ve End\u00fcl\u00fcs’e gelip El Hamra’y\u0131 g\u00f6rmeden d\u00f6nmeyi istemezdik. O y\u00fczden T\u00fcrkiye’deyken biletleri al\u0131p ondan sonra program yap\u0131p u\u00e7ak biletlerimizi ald\u0131k.\u00a0Ki\u015fi ba\u015f\u0131 70 euro. Canl\u0131 rehber e\u015fli\u011finde. Bug\u00fcn 13:30’da El Hamra’da rehberle bulu\u015faca\u011f\u0131z.<\/p>\n 6. Albayz\u0131n<\/strong><\/p>\n El Hamra Saray\u0131’ndan Albayz\u0131n’\u0131n g\u00f6r\u00fcn\u00fc\u015f\u00fc<\/p>\n El Hamra tepesi ile aralar\u0131nda bir dere ve yolun ge\u00e7ti\u011fi, \u015fehrin di\u011fer tepesi \u00fczerine kurulu en iyi korunmu\u015f Ma\u011fribi mahallesi. \u0130ki tepe aras\u0131nda birbiriyle ba\u011flant\u0131y\u0131 sa\u011flayan birka\u00e7 k\u00f6pr\u00fc var.<\/p>\n Sa\u011f taraf Albayz\u0131n, sol taraf Elhamra’n\u0131n oldu\u011fu tepeye ba\u011flanan k\u00f6pr\u00fcler.<\/p>\n Bir d\u00f6nem m\u00fcsl\u00fcmanlar\u0131n yo\u011fun olarak ya\u015fad\u0131\u011f\u0131 dar sokakl\u0131 mahallede \u015fimdilerde pek m\u00fcsl\u00fcman kalmam\u0131\u015f. Ancak bir k\u00fclt\u00fcr\u00fc ya\u015fatan evler hala ayakta. \u0130\u00e7e d\u00f6n\u00fck bir toplum miras\u0131 olan evlerde avlu ortada. D\u0131\u015f cephelerde pencere yok veya az say\u0131da.<\/p>\n Albayz\u0131n’dan El Hamra’n\u0131n g\u00f6r\u00fcn\u00fc\u015f\u00fc<\/p>\n 7. San Juan M\u00fczesi (Pisa Evi)<\/strong><\/p>\n 15. y\u00fczy\u0131lda Ma\u011fribi tarzda yap\u0131lm\u0131\u015f bir yap\u0131.<\/p>\n Bu g\u00fczel mahallede tarih i\u00e7inde yapt\u0131\u011f\u0131m\u0131z gezintiden sonra kar\u015f\u0131 tepeye do\u011fru yola koyuluyoruz. Albayz\u0131n’la aras\u0131nda bulunan k\u00f6pr\u00fcden ge\u00e7iyoruz. Sur kap\u0131lar\u0131ndan sonra da yoku\u015f yukar\u0131 dik dar bir yoldan saraya varmak i\u00e7in t\u0131rman\u0131\u015fa ge\u00e7iyoruz. Arada durup Albayz\u0131n manzaras\u0131n\u0131 seyre dal\u0131p biraz da soluklan\u0131yoruz. Rehberimizle 13:30’da randevumuz var. 12 ki\u015filik bir grupla gezece\u011fiz. Tur boyunca rehberimiz son derece ak\u0131c\u0131 bir \u015fekilde \u0130ngilizce ve ard\u0131ndan Frans\u0131zca olarak saray\u0131 tan\u0131tt\u0131 bizlere.<\/p>\n Bir tarih ancak ayr\u0131nt\u0131lar\u0131 ile bilinirse anla\u015f\u0131labilir. O y\u00fczden El Hamra’n\u0131n fevkaladeli\u011fini anlatmak i\u00e7in bir giri\u015f yaz\u0131s\u0131 yazma ihtiyac\u0131 hissediyorum.<\/p>\n 8. El Hamra Saray\u0131<\/strong><\/p>\n 1232 y\u0131l\u0131nda G\u0131rnata Emiri, Beni Ahmer Devleti’nin kurucusu 1. Muhammed d\u00f6neminde temelleri at\u0131lm\u0131\u015f. Sonraki h\u00fck\u00fcmdarlar zaman\u0131nda da ilaveler ile geni\u015fletilmi\u015f. El Hamra’n\u0131n yap\u0131m\u0131na ba\u015fland\u0131\u011f\u0131 ve devam etti\u011fi d\u00f6nem \u0130spanya’daki M\u00fcsl\u00fcmanlar\u0131n Hristiyanlarca tehdit edildi\u011fi zamanlard\u0131r. Bu d\u00f6nemde iki \u00f6nemli \u015fehir Kurtuba ve Sevilla Hristiyanlar’\u0131n eline ge\u00e7mi\u015ftir.<\/p>\n Nasriler El Hamra’y\u0131 karargah, y\u00f6netim merkezi ve ikametgah olarak kullanm\u0131\u015ft\u0131r.<\/p>\n 13 hektar \u00fczerine kurulmu\u015ftur.<\/p>\n El Hamra k\u0131rm\u0131z\u0131 olan demek. Kapland\u0131\u011f\u0131 kara toprak ta\u015flara k\u0131rm\u0131z\u0131 g\u00f6r\u00fcnt\u00fc verdi\u011fi i\u00e7in bu isimle an\u0131lm\u0131\u015f.<\/p>\n \u0130spanya’da, g\u00fcn\u00fcm\u00fcze ula\u015fan az say\u0131da End\u00fcl\u00fcs k\u00fclt\u00fcr ve medeniyet eserinden biridir. \u0130slam Mimarisinin ula\u015fabilece\u011fi en y\u00fcksek noktalardan biri, zengin ve zekaca g\u00fc\u00e7l\u00fc bir medeniyetin eseridir. 1001 gece masallar\u0131ndaki r\u00fcya saraylar\u0131n b\u00fcy\u00fcleyici ger\u00e7ek kopyas\u0131d\u0131r adeta.<\/p>\n El Hamra’n\u0131n mucizesi onun gizemindedir. Katolikler, ya\u011fmalamalar\u0131 esnas\u0131nda kitaplar\u0131, ar\u015fivleri yok etmi\u015fler ama El Hamra’y\u0131 y\u0131kmaya g\u00f6n\u00fclleri el vermemi\u015f.<\/p>\n Orta \u00e7a\u011f harikalar\u0131ndan biri olan yap\u0131 \u0130slam medeniyetini anlamak i\u00e7in bir rehberdir. Nefes kesici bir mimariye sahip. Bu sarayda g\u00fczel bir yap\u0131dan daha fazlas\u0131 var. Bu ahengi hissetmemizi sa\u011flayan \u00f6zel bir neden. Profes\u00f6r Antonio Fernandez Puertas hayat\u0131n\u0131 El Hamra’y\u0131 inceleyerek ge\u00e7irmi\u015f. Ona g\u00f6re saray\u0131 in\u015fa edenlerin eski medeniyetlerden ba\u015flayan karma\u015f\u0131k geometri hakk\u0131nda bilgileri vard\u0131. Bu matematiksel prensipleri ilk olu\u015fturan ki\u015fi Pisagor. Profes\u00f6r Puertas yer plan\u0131ndan duvar dekorasyonuna kadar b\u00fct\u00fcn binan\u0131n tek bir oran etraf\u0131nda olu\u015fturuldu\u011funu ke\u015ffediyor.<\/p>\n Sultan yeni bir saray yap\u0131lmas\u0131n\u0131 emretmi\u015f. Saray\u0131n in\u015fas\u0131 i\u00e7in k\u0131s\u0131tl\u0131 bir alan mevcut. G\u0131rnata Emiri, mimarlar\u0131ndan saraydaki her bir bo\u015flu\u011fu tek bir oran k\u00fcmesine g\u00f6re d\u00fczenlemesini istiyor. Birbirleri ile ili\u015fkili dikd\u00f6rtgenlerin olu\u015fturdu\u011fu bir k\u00fcme kullan\u0131l\u0131yor. P\u00fcf noktas\u0131 bir karenin kenar\u0131 ve k\u00f6\u015fegeni aras\u0131ndaki basit ili\u015fki. Puertas bu inceleme ve ke\u015ffi sonras\u0131nda El Hamra’n\u0131n sadece estetik bir ba\u015far\u0131 de\u011fil ayn\u0131 zamanda matematiksel bir ba\u015far\u0131 oldu\u011funu ortaya koyuyor.<\/p>\n Sarayda belli ba\u015fl\u0131 4\u00a0b\u00f6lgeyi gezece\u011fiz:<\/p>\n 1-Arifler Bah\u00e7esi (Generalife)<\/p>\n 2-Nasriler Saray\u0131<\/p>\n 3-V. Carlos Saray\u0131<\/p>\n 4-Partal (S\u00fctunlu Giri\u015f)<\/p>\n Turumuza \u00f6nce, en az saray kadar me\u015fhur olan bah\u00e7elerini gezmekle ba\u015fl\u0131yoruz.<\/p>\n Arifler Bah\u00e7esi (Generalife)<\/strong><\/p>\n Bah\u00e7ecili\u011fi de bir sanat gibi bu topraklara getiren M\u00fcsl\u00fcmanlar geldikleri yerlerden de say\u0131s\u0131z a\u011fa\u00e7 getirip buralara dikmi\u015fler. Meyve bah\u00e7eleri de olu\u015fturmu\u015flar. Bug\u00fcn gezdi\u011fimiz bu bah\u00e7eler, eski ile harmanlanm\u0131\u015f de\u011fi\u015fiklikler de ihtiva ediyor.<\/p>\n Yazl\u0131k Saray k\u0131sm\u0131nda yer alan bu f\u0131skiyeli havuzlu alan erkekler i\u00e7in yap\u0131lm\u0131\u015f. Ayn\u0131s\u0131ndan bir de bayanlar i\u00e7in var.<\/p>\n K\u00fcndekari, mukarnas ve fresk sanat\u0131n\u0131n m\u00fckemmel harman\u0131n\u0131 izliyoruz.<\/p>\n Saray dekorasyonunun her detay\u0131 bir d\u00fczenin par\u00e7as\u0131 gibi duruyor. Duvarlar\u0131n ve pencerelerin ah\u015fap do\u011framalar\u0131na oyulmu\u015f grift geometrik motifler g\u00f6z al\u0131c\u0131.<\/p>\n Sultan Teras\u0131<\/p>\n Muhte\u015fem Saraydan muhte\u015fem \u015fehir manzaras\u0131.<\/p>\n Alt bah\u00e7eler.<\/p>\n Bah\u00e7eler bile kat kat kurulmu\u015f. \u00dcst bah\u00e7eleri ta\u015f\u0131yan uygun teknikler kullan\u0131lm\u0131\u015f.<\/p>\n Bu g\u00fczel bah\u00e7elerden ayr\u0131l\u0131p gezimize devam ediyoruz. Nasri Saray\u0131na kadar daha 15 dakikal\u0131k bir y\u00fcr\u00fcy\u00fc\u015f mesafemiz var.<\/p>\n Yolda giderken Saray alan\u0131 i\u00e7inde birka\u00e7 otel bulundu\u011funu g\u00f6r\u00fcyoruz. (San Francisco Pansiyonu)<\/p>\n V. Carlos Saray\u0131<\/strong><\/p>\n El Hamra Saray\u0131’n\u0131n mimarisinin bozulmas\u0131 ilk olarak Kastilya Kral\u0131 V. Carlos yani bizim bildi\u011fimiz ad\u0131 ile \u015earlken (Ayn\u0131 zamanda \u0130sabel’in torunu) zaman\u0131nda ba\u015flar. (Kanuni, \u015earlken’e esir d\u00fc\u015fen Fransa Kral\u0131 I. Fransuva’n\u0131n kendisinden yard\u0131m istemesi \u00fczerine \u015earlken’e konuyla ilgili bir mektup yaz\u0131yor. Neticesinde Fransuva serbest b\u0131rak\u0131l\u0131r.) 1526’da kendi ad\u0131n\u0131 ta\u015f\u0131yan saray\u0131n yap\u0131m\u0131 i\u00e7in El Hamra’n\u0131n bir k\u0131sm\u0131n\u0131 y\u0131kt\u0131r\u0131r. Niyeti Hristiyanl\u0131\u011f\u0131n M\u00fcsl\u00fcmanl\u0131k \u00fczerindeki zaferini g\u00f6stermektir. Ancak \u00e7evrede bulunan deha niteli\u011finde zengin bir mimarinin \u00fcr\u00fcn\u00fc El Hamra ile uyumsuz g\u00f6r\u00fcnt\u00fcs\u00fc, onu en az\u0131ndan bu alanda bir zafere ula\u015ft\u0131rmam\u0131\u015f g\u00f6r\u00fcn\u00fcyor. Ziyaret\u00e7ilerin iki saray\u0131 mukayese etme imkan\u0131 da oluyor.<\/p>\n R\u00f6nesans \u00a0mimarisine uygun olarak s\u00fctun direkler \u00fczerine in\u015fa edilmi\u015ftir. D\u0131\u015ftan kare planl\u0131 yap\u0131 i\u00e7te yuvarlak bir avluya sahip.<\/p>\n G\u00fcn\u00fcm\u00fczde G\u00fczel Sanatlar M\u00fczesi olarak hizmet veriyor.<\/p>\n El Hamra’n\u0131n tahribat\u0131 daha sonraki y\u0131llarda da devam etmi\u015f. Fransa \u0130spanya aras\u0131ndaki sava\u015fta Napolyon’un ordular\u0131 taraf\u0131ndan talan edilmi\u015f.<\/p>\n Daha sonralar\u0131 at\u0131l b\u0131rak\u0131lan Saray bir m\u00fcddet de fakir ve evsizlerin bar\u0131nd\u0131\u011f\u0131 bir mekan olmu\u015f.<\/p>\n 1923-1936 y\u0131llar\u0131 aras\u0131nda bir restorasyona girmi\u015f. Yapt\u0131klar\u0131 yanl\u0131\u015f\u0131 anlayan \u0130spanyollar restorasyon s\u0131ras\u0131nda olabildi\u011fince orjinaline sad\u0131k kalarak \u00e7al\u0131\u015fm\u0131\u015flar.<\/p>\n 1984’te El Hamra ve Arifler Bah\u00e7esi Unesco D\u00fcnya Miras\u0131’na al\u0131nm\u0131\u015f.<\/p>\n Nasriler Saray\u0131<\/strong><\/p>\n Farkl\u0131 zamanlarda yap\u0131lm\u0131\u015f 3 saray yer al\u0131yor.<\/p>\n Mexuar Saray\u0131: \u0130smail (1314-1325), V. Muhammed (1362-1391)<\/p>\n Comares Saray\u0131: Yusuf (1333-1354), V. Muhammed (1362-1391)<\/p>\n Aslanlar Saray\u0131: V. Muhammed (1362-1391)<\/p>\n Saray\u0131n d\u0131\u015f cephesi olduk\u00e7a m\u00fctevazi. Do\u011fayla b\u00fcy\u00fck bir uyum i\u00e7inde. Ama i\u00e7ine girildi\u011finde zirveye ula\u015fm\u0131\u015f bir sanat\u0131n izleri her alanda g\u00f6r\u00fcl\u00fcyor.<\/p>\n \u0130lk oda Mexuar Salonu (Me\u015fveret Salonu): Adalet Divan\u0131 olarak Emirlerin ve devlet erkan\u0131n\u0131n me\u015fvere yaparak g\u00f6r\u00fc\u015f birli\u011fine vard\u0131\u011f\u0131, idari ve adli meselelerin konu\u015fuldu\u011fu b\u00f6l\u00fcm.<\/p>\n Saray\u0131n her bir duvar\u0131nda Kur’an’dan al\u0131nan ayetler ve M\u00fcsl\u00fcman \u015fairlerin m\u0131sralar\u0131n\u0131n kaz\u0131nm\u0131\u015f oldu\u011fu kitabeler duvarlar\u0131 s\u00fcsl\u00fcyor.<\/p>\n Saray i\u00e7inde t\u00fcm oda ve salonlar\u0131 \u00e7epe\u00e7evre dola\u015fan bir s\u00f6zc\u00fck, d\u00fcnyan\u0131n bu en nazenin, Orta \u00e7a\u011f\u0131n en \u00fcnl\u00fc, \u00f6nemli \u00a0saray\u0131n\u0131n s\u0131rr\u0131n\u0131 adeta \u00f6zetler. “Allah’tan ba\u015fka galip yoktur”. Bu bak\u0131mdan El Hamra Allah’\u0131n tek galip oldu\u011funu t\u00fcm d\u00fcnyaya hayk\u0131ran bir sarayd\u0131r ve d\u00fcnyan\u0131n hi\u00e7bir yerinde Allah ad\u0131n\u0131 bu kadar g\u00fczel zikreden s\u00fctun, kemer, kubbe, tavan, kap\u0131 ve duvara sahip bir saray bulmak m\u00fcmk\u00fcn de\u011fildir.<\/p>\n Rivayete g\u00f6re bir sava\u015ftan galibiyetle d\u00f6nen Sultan’\u0131n, halk\u0131n tezah\u00fcratlar\u0131na, “galip sensin” nidalar\u0131na kar\u015f\u0131 duvarlara\u00a0 bu s\u00f6z\u00fc yazd\u0131rm\u0131\u015f.<\/p>\n \u015earlken bu salonda da sakil duran bir de\u011fi\u015fikli\u011fe imza atm\u0131\u015f. Mexuar Salonunda hatlar\u0131n \u00fczerine iki ta\u00e7 otutturmu\u015f. Biri Kutsal Roma Germen \u0130mparatorlu\u011fu tac\u0131 di\u011feri Cennetin Krall\u0131\u011f\u0131 tac\u0131. Hristiyanl\u0131k ve Musevilikte cennetin krall\u0131\u011f\u0131 Kud\u00fcs’t\u00fcr. Ancak o d\u00f6nemde \u015earlken’in hayallerinde yer alan Kud\u00fcs, M\u00fcsl\u00fcmanlar taraf\u0131ndan y\u00f6netiliyordu. \u015earlken kendi egemenli\u011fi alt\u0131nda birle\u015fmi\u015f b\u00fcy\u00fck Katolik bir imparatorluk kurmak istemi\u015f bunun i\u00e7in y\u0131llarca Protestan ve Osmanl\u0131larla sava\u015fm\u0131\u015f ancak bunu ba\u015faramam\u0131\u015ft\u0131r.<\/p>\n Comares Saray\u0131<\/strong><\/p>\n Comares Saray\u0131’n\u0131n \u00f6n y\u00fcz\u00fc.<\/p>\n Arrayanes Avlusu (Mersin A\u011fac\u0131 Avlusu):\u00a0Devlet el\u00e7i ve konuklar\u0131n\u0131n Sultan huzuruna \u00e7\u0131kmadan \u00f6nce bekletildikleri \u00f6n kabul yeri.<\/p>\n Yer seviyesine inilince havuz ayna g\u00f6revi g\u00f6r\u00fcyor ve binalar suda as\u0131l\u0131ym\u0131\u015f gibi g\u00f6r\u00fcn\u00fcyor. El Hamra’ya suya yans\u0131yan saray<\/strong> da deniliyor.<\/p>\n Arkada g\u00f6r\u00fclen de Comares Kulesi. Comares’in el-kamer yani g\u00f6zlem evinden geldi\u011fi de s\u00f6ylenmekte.<\/p>\n Ayn\u0131 avlunun di\u011fer cephesinde g\u00f6r\u00fcnen iki katl\u0131 bina \u015earlken taraf\u0131ndan y\u0131k\u0131lan saraydan kalan sadece cephe g\u00f6r\u00fcnt\u00fcs\u00fcd\u00fcr. Arkada ad\u0131na yapt\u0131rd\u0131\u011f\u0131 uyumsuz g\u00f6r\u00fcnt\u00fcdeki saray\u0131 g\u00f6r\u00fclmekte.<\/p>\n El\u00e7iler Salonu ( (Taht Odas\u0131): Saray\u0131n sembolik merkezi.<\/p>\n Kulenin i\u00e7inde yer alan, saray\u0131n en g\u00f6rkemli alanlar\u0131ndan biri. Tavan\u0131 18 metre y\u00fcksekli\u011finde, kenar\u0131 da 11 metre olan geni\u015f bir mekan. Duvarlar alt\u0131n varaklarla s\u00fcsl\u00fc.<\/p>\n Arkadaki kafes \u015feklinde pencerelerde eskiden renkli parlak cam kullan\u0131lm\u0131\u015f. \u00d6n\u00fcnde Sultan oturur arkadan gelen \u0131\u015f\u0131k onun etraf\u0131nda renkli hareler olu\u015ftururmu\u015f. Kurulan bu psikolojik \u00fcst\u00fcnl\u00fckle, gelen devlet adamlar\u0131, el\u00e7iler a\u011f\u0131rlan\u0131rm\u0131\u015f.<\/p>\n (19. y\u00fczy\u0131l yazar\u0131 Washington Irving der ki: “Bu do\u011fulu tarzdaki mekan\u0131, eski Arap romantizmiyle ili\u015fkisini hissetmeden d\u00fc\u015f\u00fcnmek imkans\u0131zd\u0131r. \u0130nsan neredeyse kafesin ard\u0131ndan kara g\u00f6zlerin \u0131\u015f\u0131ldamas\u0131n\u0131 bekliyor. Bu g\u00fczellik, mekan\u0131 sanki daha d\u00fcn mesken tutmu\u015f gibi duruyor. El Hamra’ya gelip buradan \u00e7ok etkilenen yazar “El Hamra Efsaneleri” adl\u0131 eseri yazm\u0131\u015ft\u0131r.)<\/p>\n Tavan yedi kat g\u00f6\u011f\u00fc sembolize eden 8017 grift y\u0131ld\u0131z s\u00fcslemeli, mukarnas i\u015f\u00e7ilikli sedir a\u011fac\u0131ndan yap\u0131lm\u0131\u015f.<\/p>\n Aslanl\u0131 Avlu<\/p>\n Paris’teki Arap D\u00fcnyas\u0131 Enstit\u00fcs\u00fc ba\u015fkan\u0131 Edgar Pisani der ki: “El Hamra in\u015fa edilirken hi\u00e7bir \u015fey tesad\u00fcfe b\u0131rak\u0131lmam\u0131\u015f, her detay itina ile hesaplanm\u0131\u015ft\u0131r. Kavislerin b\u00f6l\u00fcn\u00fc\u015f\u00fcnde, tek ve \u00e7ift s\u00fctunlar\u0131n ho\u015fa giden bir tarzda yerle\u015ftirilmelerinde, kap\u0131 ve pencere yerlerinin tespitinde bunu anlamak m\u00fcmk\u00fcnd\u00fcr. \u0130\u015fte bu sayede harikulade bir perspektif ortaya \u00e7\u0131kar, avlular ile a\u00e7\u0131k salon aras\u0131nda g\u00fcne\u015f \u0131\u015f\u0131\u011f\u0131, sular\u0131n ak\u0131\u015f\u0131 ve g\u00f6lgelerin oyunu bulu\u015ftu\u011funda d\u0131\u015f alemle inan\u0131lmaz bir uyum ve zarafet sa\u011flam\u0131\u015ft\u0131r. Bu, sanki el de\u011fince k\u0131r\u0131l\u0131p d\u00f6k\u00fclecek hissi veren y\u00fcksek bir zarafettir.”<\/p>\n El\u00e7iler salonuna a\u00e7\u0131lan 12 s\u00fctunlu, f\u0131skiyeli havuzlu bir avludur. Beyaz mermer havuz 12 adet aslan fig\u00fcr\u00fc taraf\u0131ndan ta\u015f\u0131n\u0131r. Bu aslanlar\u0131n Yahudilikte 12 kavmi temsil etti\u011fi ve Sultana hediye edildi\u011fi d\u00fc\u015f\u00fcn\u00fclmekte.<\/p>\n Abencerrajes Salonu: K\u0131\u015flar\u0131 resmi \u015f\u00f6lenler ve \u00f6nemli konuklar\u0131n kabul\u00fc i\u00e7in kullan\u0131l\u0131yormu\u015f. G\u0131rnata’n\u0131n son Emiri kar\u0131s\u0131 ile ilgili bir k\u0131skan\u00e7l\u0131k krizi neticesinde soylu Abencerrajes ailesinden 12 ki\u015fiyi \u015f\u00f6len s\u0131ras\u0131nda burada \u00f6ld\u00fcrm\u00fc\u015f.<\/p>\n Krallar Salonu: \u00d6zellikle hayvan tasvirleri, Hristiyan ve M\u00fcsl\u00fcman sava\u015f\u00e7\u0131lar\u0131 avlan\u0131rken ve sava\u015f\u0131rken g\u00f6steren resimler bu salonun Hristiyan sanat\u00e7\u0131lar taraf\u0131ndan yap\u0131ld\u0131\u011f\u0131n d\u00fc\u015f\u00fcnd\u00fcr\u00fcyor.<\/p>\n \u0130kiz K\u0131z Karde\u015f Salonu: H\u00fck\u00fcmdar\u0131n \u00f6zel malikanesine ayr\u0131lm\u0131\u015f b\u00f6l\u00fcmlerden.<\/p>\n Tahttan indirildikten sonra Granada’ya s\u0131\u011f\u0131nan Malaga Emiri’nin k\u0131z\u0131yla Sultan’\u0131n evlenmesiyle bu salon g\u00fczel gelin Lindaraja’ya ayr\u0131lm\u0131\u015f.<\/p>\n Lindaraja Balkonu: Avlu manzaras\u0131na sahip balkondan portakal, limon a\u011fa\u00e7lar\u0131 ve f\u0131skiyeli havuzu g\u00f6rmek m\u00fcmk\u00fcn.<\/p>\n Partal (S\u00fctunlu Giri\u015f, S\u00fctunlu Saray)<\/strong><\/p>\n Muhtemelen 14. y\u00fczy\u0131lda yap\u0131m\u0131na ba\u015flanan El Hamra’n\u0131n en eski saray\u0131d\u0131r. Orjinalinden g\u00fcn\u00fcm\u00fcze kalan B\u00fcy\u00fck havuz ve saraya ad\u0131n\u0131 veren be\u015f kemerli s\u00fctundur.<\/p>\n Burada rehberden ayr\u0131l\u0131p Al Kazaba’y\u0131 geziyoruz.<\/p>\n Al Kazaba<\/strong><\/p>\n Saray\u0131n bat\u0131 ucunda bulunan, 1248’de yap\u0131lm\u0131\u015f saray\u0131n en eski b\u00f6l\u00fcm\u00fc. Nasri Hanedan\u0131’n\u0131n kurucusu Ebu Abdullah’\u0131n ikamet etti\u011fi yer. Askeri bir alan \u00f6zelli\u011findeymi\u015f ayn\u0131 zamanda.<\/p>\n Art\u0131k bu \u015fahesere veda zaman\u0131 geldi. \u00c7\u0131kt\u0131\u011f\u0131m\u0131z yollardan inerek \u015fehre d\u00f6n\u00fcyoruz. Plaza Nueva’da tango yapan bir ikiliye denk geliyoruz.<\/p>\n Muhte\u015fem g\u00f6steriyi izliyor ve ac\u0131km\u0131\u015f bir \u015fekilde kendimizi burada yeme mekan\u0131 olarak se\u00e7ti\u011fimiz La Chicota’ya at\u0131yoruz.<\/p>\n Ve tapas s\u00f6yl\u00fcyoruz. Et, bal\u0131k veya sebzelerden olu\u015fan mezelerinin ad\u0131 tapas. Sunum ve servis de harika olunca yeme\u011fe doyum olmuyor. 10 \u00e7e\u015fit mezeden olu\u015fan bu tapas taba\u011f\u0131 19 euro idi. Sangria i\u00e7meyi de ihmal etmedim.<\/p>\n Ak\u015fam saat 10 i\u00e7in Flamenko g\u00f6sterisine rezervasyon yapt\u0131rd\u0131k. 30 euro idi. \u015eirket belli ba\u015fl\u0131 otellerin \u00f6n\u00fcnden (biz Melia otelin \u00f6n\u00fcnden 9:20’de bindik) m\u00fc\u015fterileri al\u0131yor. Giderken Sacromonte’nin i\u00e7inden gezdirerek Flamenko g\u00f6sterisinin yap\u0131ld\u0131\u011f\u0131 “Cueva de la Rocio’ya getiriyor. Clinton geldi\u011finde de buraya gelmi\u015f. Granada’da en me\u015fhuru buras\u0131 imi\u015f. Bizim Clinton’dan ne eksi\u011fimiz var deyip buray\u0131 tercih ettik:).<\/p>\n 9. Sacromonte<\/strong><\/p>\n Albayz\u0131n’\u0131n kuzey do\u011fusunda bulunan kom\u015fu mahallesi. Kom\u015fu olmakla birlikte ev tipleri burada farkl\u0131. \u0130\u00e7 avlulu eski M\u00fcsl\u00fcman evleri yerine \u00e7ingene k\u00fclt\u00fcr\u00fcn\u00fcn do\u011fdu\u011fu, ma\u011fara misali kayalara oyulan evlerden olu\u015fur. Hala \u00e7ingene k\u00fclt\u00fcr\u00fcn\u00fcn devam etti\u011fi mahallede bu ma\u011fara evlerde art\u0131k turistleri buraya \u00e7eken flamenko g\u00f6sterileri yap\u0131l\u0131yor. Gitti\u011fimiz yerde ayn\u0131 anda birka\u00e7 odada g\u00f6steri vard\u0131.<\/p>\n \u0130zledi\u011fimiz Flamenko, Sevilla’da izledi\u011fimiz g\u00f6steri ile mukayese edilemezdi. Sevilla’da sanat\u0131n\u0131n doru\u011funa \u00e7\u0131km\u0131\u015f, sizi i\u00e7ine alan flamenkonun yan\u0131nda buradaki turistik amat\u00f6r bir dans g\u00f6sterisi havas\u0131nda idi. Flamenkoyu Sevilla’da izlemek laz\u0131m.<\/p>\n G\u00f6steri \u00e7\u0131k\u0131\u015f\u0131nda minib\u00fcsle dar Sacromonte ve Albayz\u0131n sokaklar\u0131nda\u00a0gezinti yapt\u0131k. \u00a0Albayz\u0131n’da San Nicolas Kilisesi \u00f6n\u00fcndeki terasta indik. Burada El Hamra’n\u0131n nefis gece manzaras\u0131n\u0131 seyrettik ve foto\u011fraf \u00e7ektik.<\/p>\n <\/p>\n <\/p>\n <\/p>\n <\/p>\n <\/p>\n <\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":" Granada 2. G\u00fcn 3 Nisan 2017 Pazartesi (devam) Sevilla-Granada (G\u0131rnata) aras\u0131 yakla\u015f\u0131k 250 km. Ak\u015fam \u015fehre var\u0131yoruz. Otelin \u00f6nerdi\u011fi otoparka gidiyor yine Vefa. 2 g\u00fcn i\u00e7in 30 euro veriyoruz. Bu otopark paralar\u0131 bana a\u011f\u0131r geldi nedense. T\u00fcrkiye’de otellerin otopark\u0131 oldu\u011fundan pek al\u0131\u015fk\u0131n de\u011filiz ekstradan para vermeye. Otele yerle\u015ftikten sonra Albayz\u0131n Mahellesi’ne do\u011fru El Hamra’n\u0131n bulundu\u011fu […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":1800,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[168],"tags":[172,171,173,306,170,169,308,305,307],"class_list":["post-1675","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-granada","tag-al-caiceria","tag-al-madraza","tag-albayzin","tag-bib-rambla","tag-corral-del-carbon","tag-el-hamra","tag-generalife","tag-granada","tag-kristof-kolomb"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.yeryuzundebirkacadim.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1675","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.yeryuzundebirkacadim.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.yeryuzundebirkacadim.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.yeryuzundebirkacadim.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.yeryuzundebirkacadim.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=1675"}],"version-history":[{"count":32,"href":"https:\/\/www.yeryuzundebirkacadim.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1675\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":5622,"href":"https:\/\/www.yeryuzundebirkacadim.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1675\/revisions\/5622"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.yeryuzundebirkacadim.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/1800"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.yeryuzundebirkacadim.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=1675"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.yeryuzundebirkacadim.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=1675"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.yeryuzundebirkacadim.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=1675"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}![\"\"](\"https:\/\/www.yeryuzundebirkacadim.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/06\/DSC00310.jpg\")
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