Hali\u00e7 \u00fczerindeki Atat\u00fcrk K\u00f6pr\u00fcs\u00fc\u2019n\u00fcn bat\u0131 aya\u011f\u0131na do\u011fru gelip sa\u011fa yani kuzeye d\u00f6nd\u00fc\u011f\u00fcm\u00fczde solda kalan semtin ad\u0131 Cibali.<\/p>\n
\u0130smiyle ilgili bir efsanesi var. Fatih\u2019in ordusunda Cebe Ali isminde bir dervi\u015f varm\u0131\u015f. Sava\u015fta ku\u015fatma s\u0131ras\u0131nda postunu denize yaym\u0131\u015f. Yan\u0131ndaki \u00fc\u00e7 y\u00fcz m\u00fcridi de ayn\u0131 \u015feyi yapm\u0131\u015f. Postlar\u0131n \u00fcst\u00fcnden ge\u00e7ip kar\u015f\u0131 k\u0131y\u0131ya ula\u015fm\u0131\u015f ve sava\u015fm\u0131\u015flar. Surlardaki Bizans askerleri \u00e7ok korkmu\u015f.<\/p>\n
Cebe Ali\u2019nin mezar\u0131 Cibali Karakolu\u2019nun i\u00e7indeymi\u015f.<\/p>\n
Muammer Karaca\u2019n\u0131n yabanc\u0131 bir eserden uyarlad\u0131\u011f\u0131 Cibali Karakolu tiyatrosu, bu semti ve karakolu me\u015fhur etmi\u015f. Oyun yirmi y\u0131l kadar oynanm\u0131\u015f.<\/p>\n
Cibali, \u0130stanbul\u2019un \u00e7ok katl\u0131 yap\u0131la\u015fmas\u0131na daha ba\u015flamam\u0131\u015f, iki-\u00fc\u00e7 katl\u0131 ah\u015fap ve betondan yap\u0131lm\u0131\u015f eski evleri, dar sokaklar\u0131 ile ayr\u0131 bir d\u00fcnya.<\/p>\n
Cibali T\u00fct\u00fcn Fabrikas\u0131 (Kadir Has \u00dcniversitesi)<\/strong><\/p>\n Sahil boyunca ilerledi\u011fimizde Abd\u00fclezel Pa\u015fa Caddesi \u00fczerinde a\u00e7\u0131k renkli tarihi binas\u0131nda Kadir Has \u00dcniversitesi<\/strong>ni g\u00f6r\u00fcyoruz. Buras\u0131 eskiden t\u00fct\u00fcn fabrikas\u0131 imi\u015f. Bu b\u00f6lge, ula\u015f\u0131m kolayl\u0131\u011f\u0131 nedeni ile Osmanl\u0131\u2019da sanayile\u015fmenin ba\u015flad\u0131\u011f\u0131 yerlerden olmu\u015f. Cibali T\u00fct\u00fcn fabrikas\u0131<\/strong> 1880\u2019lerde Frans\u0131z sermayesi ile Reji idaresi taraf\u0131ndan kurulmu\u015f. 1925\u2019te millile\u015ftirilen fabrikada 1994\u2019e kadar \u00fcretim devam etmi\u015f. 1995\u2019te bo\u015falt\u0131lan yap\u0131 daha sonra e\u011fitim kurumu olarak de\u011ferlendirilmek \u00fczere Kadir Has \u00dcniversitesi’ne tahsis edilmi\u015f. 2002\u2019de yap\u0131lan restorasyon ile bug\u00fcnk\u00fc halini alm\u0131\u015f.<\/p>\n Cibali t\u00fct\u00fcn fabrikas\u0131nda erkek ve kad\u0131n i\u015f\u00e7iler birlikte \u00e7al\u0131\u015fm\u0131\u015flar. Alpay\u2019\u0131n Fabrika K\u0131z\u0131 \u015fark\u0131s\u0131 buradaki an\u0131lardan ilhamla yaz\u0131lm\u0131\u015f.<\/p>\n Bu tarihi binan\u0131n alt k\u0131sm\u0131nda yer alan Osmanl\u0131 D\u00f6nemi hamam kal\u0131nt\u0131s\u0131n\u0131n ve Bizans D\u00f6nemi Seferikos Su Sarn\u0131c\u0131\u2019n\u0131n (Karanl\u0131k \u00c7e\u015fme) g\u00fcn y\u00fcz\u00fcne \u00e7\u0131kmas\u0131 ile buras\u0131 \u00dcniversite\u2019nin yan\u0131nda Rezan Has M\u00fczesi<\/strong> olarak ziyarete a\u00e7\u0131lm\u0131\u015f. Sarn\u0131\u00e7 ge\u00e7mi\u015fte i\u015flevini yitirdikten sonra t\u00fct\u00fcn fabrikas\u0131n\u0131n deposu ve ard\u0131ndan II. D\u00fcnya Sava\u015f\u0131 y\u0131llar\u0131nda erzak deposu olarak kullan\u0131lm\u0131\u015f.<\/p>\n M\u00fczede Urartu eserleri sergileniyordu.<\/p>\n M\u00fczenin \u00f6n\u00fcnden devam edip \u015eerefiye caddesine ula\u015f\u0131nca \u00f6nce sol sonra sa\u011fa d\u00f6nd\u00fc\u011f\u00fcm\u00fczde yani yakla\u015f\u0131k 450 metre sonra G\u00fcl Camisi’ne geliyoruz.<\/p>\n G\u00fcl Camisi<\/strong><\/p>\n 9. y\u00fczy\u0131lda Bizans d\u00f6neminde Aya Theodosia Kilisesi olarak yap\u0131lm\u0131\u015f. 1499\u2019da camiye \u00e7evrilmi\u015f. (\u0130stanbul\u2019da kiliseden camiye \u00e7evrilen yakla\u015f\u0131k 20 k\u00fcs\u00fcr yap\u0131 var.)<\/p>\n Rivayet odur ki; Azize Theodosia\u2019n\u0131n isim g\u00fcn\u00fcnde kalabal\u0131k, kilisede toplanm\u0131\u015f. G\u00fcllerle s\u00fcsledikleri kilisede Osmanl\u0131lar\u2019\u0131n \u015fehri almamas\u0131 i\u00e7in dua etmi\u015fler. \u015eehri alan Osmanl\u0131 askerleri buraya geldiklerinde g\u00fclleri g\u00f6rm\u00fc\u015f ve \u015fa\u015f\u0131rm\u0131\u015f.<\/p>\n Di\u011fer rivayet de G\u00fcl Baba ad\u0131ndaki evliyan\u0131n burada g\u00f6m\u00fcl\u00fc olabilece\u011fi hakk\u0131nda.<\/p>\n Di\u011fer rivayet de \u015fehri korurken \u00f6ld\u00fc\u011f\u00fc s\u00f6ylenen son Bizans imparatoru Konstantin Drageses\u2019in burada g\u00f6m\u00fcl\u00fc oldu\u011fu.<\/p>\n Cami, sokak aras\u0131nda s\u0131k\u0131\u015f\u0131p kalm\u0131\u015f, etraf\u0131na yap\u0131lan eklemeler ile tarihi benli\u011finden uzakla\u015fm\u0131\u015f ac\u0131nas\u0131 bir g\u00f6r\u00fcn\u00fcmdeydi. Anahtar\u0131n\u0131 bulmak da biraz zaman ald\u0131.<\/p>\n Ha\u00e7 \u015feklinde ta\u015f ve tu\u011fladan yap\u0131lm\u0131\u015f bir binan\u0131n i\u00e7 duvarlar\u0131nda 6 k\u00f6\u015feli Davut y\u0131ld\u0131z\u0131 bulunuyor.<\/p>\n K\u00fc\u00e7\u00fck Mustafa Pa\u015fa Hamam\u0131<\/strong><\/p>\n Caminin yan duvar\u0131n\u0131n bulundu\u011fu soka\u011f\u0131n kar\u015f\u0131s\u0131nda K\u00fc\u00e7\u00fck Mustafa Pa\u015fa Hamam\u0131\u2019n\u0131 ziyaret etmek istiyor ancak restorasyonda oldu\u011funu \u00f6\u011freniyoruz. II. Beyaz\u0131t\u2019\u0131n sadrazam\u0131 Mustafa Pa\u015fa\u2019n\u0131n yapt\u0131rd\u0131\u011f\u0131 hamam \u015fehrin en eski hamamlar\u0131ndan. D\u0131\u015far\u0131dan foto\u011frafl\u0131yoruz.<\/p>\n Fatih Sultan Mehmet\u00a0Cami<\/strong><\/p>\n Fatih Sultan Mehmet taraf\u0131ndan 1462-1470 tarihleri aras\u0131nda Atik Ali’ye yapt\u0131r\u0131lan Fatih K\u00fclliyesi eski bir Bizans kilisesinin bulundu\u011fu alana in\u015fa edilmi\u015f. \u0130stanbul’un d\u00f6rd\u00fcnc\u00fc tepesinde bulunuyor.<\/p>\n Kuzeyden girildi\u011finde ortas\u0131nda \u015fad\u0131rvan\u0131 olan g\u00fczel bir avlusu var.<\/p>\n B\u00fcy\u00fck bir kubbesi bulunuyor.<\/p>\n Yak\u0131nlarda b\u00fcy\u00fck bir restorasyon ge\u00e7irdi. Baz\u0131 sanat tarih\u00e7ileri taraf\u0131ndan orijinaline uygun olmad\u0131\u011f\u0131 konusunda da ele\u015ftiriler alm\u0131\u015ft\u0131.<\/p>\n Avlusunda Fatih Sultan Mehmet\u2019in t\u00fcrbesi bulunmaktad\u0131r.<\/p>\n <\/p>\n FENER<\/strong><\/p>\n Bu semtte yer alan dik yoku\u015f \u0130stanbul\u2019un yedi tepesinden birinde Yavuz Selim Camisi’ne kadar devam eder. Bizansl\u0131lar bu yoku\u015fa Petrion (kaya) demi\u015fler. Burada surlardan ba\u015fka i\u00e7 kale de bulunuyormu\u015f. Bizans\u2019\u0131 yerle bir eden 1204 Ha\u00e7l\u0131 Seferi\u2019nde Petrion\u2019dan \u015fehre girmi\u015fler. \u00c7\u00fcnk\u00fc ba\u015fta d\u00fc\u015fman gibi g\u00f6r\u00fclmeyen Ha\u00e7l\u0131 donanmas\u0131 Hali\u00e7\u2019in me\u015fhur zincirlerinden ge\u00e7mi\u015f. Buradan surlara sald\u0131rabilmi\u015f.<\/p>\n Fatih\u2019in fethinden \u00f6nce Ege adalar\u0131 ve Mora\u2019ya ka\u00e7an b\u00f6lge sakinleri, fetihten sonra Fatih\u2019in adil ve \u00f6zg\u00fcr y\u00f6netimi neticesinde adalardaki baz\u0131 aristokrat aileler ile birlikte geri d\u00f6nm\u00fc\u015f. Bu soylu ve varl\u0131kl\u0131 Bizans aileleri Osmanl\u0131 d\u00f6neminde uzun s\u00fcre terc\u00fcmanl\u0131k, Eflak Bo\u011fdan voyvodal\u0131klar\u0131, sadrazaml\u0131k vb. g\u00f6revlerde bulunmu\u015flar.<\/p>\n 1601 y\u0131l\u0131nda Patrikhane\u2019nin buraya ta\u015f\u0131nmas\u0131 nedeniyle Rum Ortodoks cemaatinin dini merkezi olmu\u015f.<\/p>\n 1821\u2019deki Mora ayaklanmas\u0131ndan sonra ise b\u00f6lge halk\u0131 Avrupa\u2019ya g\u00f6\u00e7 etmi\u015f.<\/p>\n \u0130nternetten bir harita: 1-Kanl\u0131 Kilise 2-Fener Rum Patrikhanesi 3- Bulgar Kilisesi 4-Fener Rum Lisesi 5-Kantemir Evi 6-Kad\u0131n Eserleri K\u00fct\u00fcphanesi 7-Aya Yorgi Metokion Kilisesi<\/p>\n Bir d\u00f6nem aristokratlar\u0131n ya\u015fad\u0131\u011f\u0131 semt bu tarihlerden sonra Anadolu\u2019dan gelen insanlara mekan olmu\u015f. Ancak kendini yenileyemeyen semtte ah\u015fap evler bir hayli y\u0131pranm\u0131\u015f. 1985 y\u0131l\u0131nda \u0130stanbul\u2019un Unesco D\u00fcnya K\u00fclt\u00fcr ve Do\u011fa Miras\u0131n\u0131 Koruma S\u00f6zle\u015fmesi\u2019ne dahil edilmesinden sonra ise Fener-Balat rehabilitasyon projesi ba\u015flam\u0131\u015f. Bir \u00e7ok evin bu kapsamda restore edildi\u011fini g\u00f6r\u00fcyoruz.\u00a0Evler; 3 katl\u0131, cumbal\u0131 ve rengarenk g\u00f6r\u00fcn\u00fcmleri ile g\u00fcn\u00fcm\u00fczde instagram sayfalar\u0131n\u0131 s\u00fcsl\u00fcyor.<\/p>\n Evet art\u0131k Fener Balat aras\u0131ndaki dar sokaklarda eski d\u00f6nemi canland\u0131ran bir semtte gezintideyiz.<\/p>\n BALAT<\/strong><\/p>\n Balat; Rumca “saray” anlam\u0131na gelen “palation” kelimesinden geliyor. Surlardaki Blaherna Saray\u0131’na yak\u0131nl\u0131\u011f\u0131ndan \u00f6t\u00fcr\u00fc semt bu ad ile an\u0131lm\u0131\u015f. Zamanla bu isim de\u011fi\u015ferek Balat olmu\u015f.<\/p>\n II. Beyaz\u0131t zaman\u0131nda \u0130spanya’dan gelen Yahudiler buraya yerle\u015ftirilmi\u015f ve yak\u0131n zamana kadar bir Yahudi mahallesi olmu\u015f.<\/p>\n Y\u0131ld\u0131r\u0131m Sokak ve \u00f6zellikle Vodina Caddesinde \u00e7ok say\u0131da rengarenk eski ev bulunuyor.<\/p>\n Fener Rum Patrikhanesi<\/strong><\/p>\n 1601\u2019de Patrikhane bug\u00fcn i\u00e7inde bulundu\u011fu Aya Yorgi Manast\u0131r\u0131’na yerle\u015fmi\u015f.<\/p>\n Sad\u0131k Ahmet Caddesi \u00fczerindeki Patrikane\u2019ye \u00fc\u00e7l\u00fc bir kap\u0131dan giriliyor. Bir yan kap\u0131dan kiliseye girerken, di\u011fer yan kap\u0131dan Patrikhane\u2019ye ge\u00e7iliyor. Siyah renkli ana kap\u0131 ise kapal\u0131 ve ho\u015f olmayan bir an\u0131s\u0131 var.<\/p>\n 1821\u2019de II. Mahmut d\u00f6neminde Yunanistan\u2019da Mora isyan\u0131 ba\u015fl\u0131yor. Rumlar binlerce M\u00fcsl\u00fcman\u0131 katlediyorlar. M\u00fccadelenin ba\u015f\u0131n\u0131 kilise ve papazlar \u00e7ekiyor. Eskiden beri Yunanistan y\u00f6netiminde kilisenin rol\u00fc inkar edilemez. Padi\u015fah emriyle Patrikhane bas\u0131l\u0131yor.<\/p>\n Mora isyan\u0131na ait belgeler ve patrik 5. Gregoryus\u2019un Rus \u00e7ar\u0131na yazd\u0131\u011f\u0131 ihanet mektubu ele ge\u00e7iriliyor. Bunun \u00fczerine patrik su\u00e7lu bulunarak bu kap\u0131n\u0131n \u00f6n\u00fcnde as\u0131l\u0131yor. Gregoryus\u2019tan sonra gizlice toplanan patrikhane y\u00f6netimi, ayn\u0131 yerde bir T\u00fcrk devlet veya din adam\u0131 as\u0131lana kadar kap\u0131n\u0131n kap\u0131l\u0131 tutulmas\u0131na karar veriyor. Buran\u0131n ad\u0131 Kin Kap\u0131s\u0131 olarak kalm\u0131\u015ft\u0131r.<\/p>\n Patrikhane, milli m\u00fccadele esnas\u0131ndaki yetkisini k\u00f6t\u00fcye kullanmas\u0131ndan dolay\u0131 Atat\u00fcrk\u2019\u00fcn tepkisini \u00e7ekmi\u015f ve bu nedenle Lozan g\u00f6r\u00fc\u015fmeleri s\u0131ras\u0131nda verdi\u011fi deme\u00e7te Patrikhane\u2019nin Yunanistan\u2019a g\u00f6nderilmesini istemi\u015ftir. Ancak ba\u015fta \u0130ngilizler olmak \u00fczere bat\u0131l\u0131 g\u00fc\u00e7lerin de talebiyle art\u0131k Patrikhane\u2019nin siyasi i\u015flere bula\u015fmayaca\u011f\u0131 sadece \u201cT\u00fcrkiye\u2019deki Ortodoks az\u0131nl\u0131klar\u0131n dini vecibelerini yerine getiren bir T\u00fcrk kurumu\u201d haline getirilmesi garantisiyle T\u00fcrkiye\u2019de kalmas\u0131na izin verilmi\u015f. B\u00f6ylelikle eski imtiyazlar\u0131 ortadan kald\u0131r\u0131lm\u0131\u015f ve Lozan’da bu \u015fekilde anla\u015fma metninde yer alm\u0131\u015f. \u015eu anda Fatih Kaymakaml\u0131\u011f\u0131na ba\u011fl\u0131 bir T\u00fcrk Kurumu stat\u00fcs\u00fcndedir.<\/p>\n Yan kap\u0131dan Patrikhane Kilisesi\u2019nin oldu\u011fu avluya giriyoruz.<\/p>\n Avluda Patrikhane binas\u0131 ve k\u00fct\u00fcphane binalar\u0131 da bulunuyor.<\/p>\n 1901\u2019de yang\u0131ndan hasar g\u00f6ren yap\u0131lar\u0131n restorasyonu 1991\u2019de yap\u0131lm\u0131\u015f. Hala baz\u0131 b\u00f6l\u00fcmlerde restorasyon \u00e7al\u0131\u015fmalar\u0131 devam ediyordu.<\/p>\n Patrikhane Kilisesi (Aya Yorgi) 1720\u2019lerde yap\u0131lm\u0131\u015f. Aya Yorgi Kapadokya\u2019da do\u011fmu\u015f bir aziz. Saint George olarak da biliniyor.<\/p>\n Kilise giri\u015f kap\u0131s\u0131n\u0131n \u00fczerinde \u00e7ift ba\u015fl\u0131 Bizans Kartal\u0131 var.<\/p>\n Giri\u015fte narteks (koridor) bulunuyor.<\/p>\n Roma ve \u0130stanbul\u2019da bulunan bat\u0131 ve do\u011fu kiliseleri 1054\u2019te \u201cB\u00fcy\u00fck \u015e\u00fcphe\u201d denilerek ayr\u0131l\u0131yor. 1204\u2019de ise 4. Ha\u00e7l\u0131 Seferi \u0130stanbul\u2019a gelip \u015fehri tamamen ya\u011fmal\u0131yor. \u00d6nemli azizlerin kemikleri Vatikan\u2019a g\u00f6t\u00fcr\u00fcl\u00fcyor. 2005\u2019de ise iade ediliyor. Burada bulunan \u00fc\u00e7 tanesi \u00f6nemli. 1.Vasilis 2. Gregoryus 3. Yuhanna<\/p>\n Kilise alt\u0131n i\u015f\u00e7ili\u011fi, fildi\u015fi sedef ve mermerden yap\u0131lan g\u00f6r\u00fcnt\u00fcs\u00fc ile eski Bizans Kilise ihti\u015fam\u0131n\u0131 yans\u0131tmas\u0131 a\u00e7\u0131s\u0131ndan g\u00fczel bir \u00f6rnek.<\/p>\n Solda g\u00f6r\u00fclen alt\u0131n i\u015f\u00e7ilikli ikonastasis (Do\u011fu Kiliseleri\u2019nde kutsal b\u00f6lmeyi dinleyici salonundan ay\u0131ran ve \u00fczerinde kutsal resimler bulunan duvar) 17. y\u00fczy\u0131lda Barok ve Osmanl\u0131 mimari tarz\u0131nda yap\u0131lm\u0131\u015f. \u00dczerinde Hz. \u0130sa\u2019n\u0131n hayat\u0131 resmedilmi\u015f.<\/p>\n M\u00fcsl\u00fcmanl\u0131ktaki minbere benzer dua k\u00fcrs\u00fcs\u00fcnde \u00f6zel g\u00fcnlerde dua yap\u0131l\u0131yormu\u015f.<\/p>\n Fener Rum Lisesi<\/strong><\/p>\n Benim \u00e7ok be\u011fendi\u011fim, eski evlerin aras\u0131nda ve bir yoku\u015fun bitiminde y\u00fckselen k\u0131rm\u0131z\u0131 muhte\u015fem yap\u0131. Daha \u00f6nce uzaktan g\u00f6rd\u00fc\u011f\u00fcmde Patrikhane zannetti\u011fin bina.<\/p>\n Giri\u015finde bir tan\u0131t\u0131m yaz\u0131s\u0131 var:<\/p>\n K\u0131rm\u0131z\u0131 Mektep veya Mekteb-i Kebir olarak an\u0131lan \u00d6zel Fener Rum Lisesi ve \u0130lk\u00f6\u011fretim Okulu Fransa\u2019dan getirilen k\u0131rm\u0131z\u0131 tu\u011flalar ile \u015fimdiki binas\u0131 in\u015fa edildi\u011fi i\u00e7in halk aras\u0131nda K\u0131rm\u0131z\u0131 Mektep olarak an\u0131lmaktad\u0131r. \u0130stanbul\u2019un 1453 y\u0131l\u0131nda fethinden sonra Fatih Sultan Mehmet\u2019in 1454 y\u0131l\u0131nda Ortodokslar\u0131n e\u011fitimlerini kendi dillerinde yapabileceklerine dair bir ferman vermesinden sonra Fener semtinde bir okul kurularak e\u011fitim ve \u00f6\u011fretime ba\u015fland\u0131. Zaman i\u00e7inde Patrikhane Akademisi ve Rum Mekteb-i ad\u0131n\u0131 alan okula Osmanl\u0131lar geni\u015f imkanlar sa\u011flad\u0131lar. 1861\u2019de klasik e\u011fitim veren bir liseye d\u00f6n\u00fc\u015ft\u00fc. \u015eimdiki binas\u0131 1881\u2019de Mimar Konstantin Dimadis taraf\u0131ndan in\u015fa edildi. Okulun arkas\u0131 yine bu okul mezunu Moldovya Prensi Dimitri Kantemir taraf\u0131ndan ba\u011f\u0131\u015flanm\u0131\u015ft\u0131r. Okul \u00fc\u00e7 kattan olu\u015fan bir yap\u0131ya sahiptir. Kubbesi yerden 40 metre y\u00fcksekli\u011fe sahip olup 3020 metrekare kullan\u0131labilir alana sahiptir. Ku\u015fbak\u0131\u015f\u0131 g\u00f6r\u00fcn\u00fc\u015f\u00fcn\u00fcn ise kartal\u0131 and\u0131rd\u0131\u011f\u0131 s\u00f6ylenmektedir.<\/p>\n Rum Lisesi 1980\u2019lere kadar erkek lisesiymi\u015f. Yak\u0131ndaki k\u0131z lisesinde 3 \u00f6\u011frenci kal\u0131nca birle\u015ftirilmi\u015f.\u00a0Burada d\u00fcnyevi, Heybeli Ruhban Okulu\u2019nda ise dini e\u011fitim verilirmi\u015f.<\/p>\n G\u00fcn\u00fcm\u00fczde \u0130stanbul\u2019da yakla\u015f\u0131k 1250 Rum ya\u015f\u0131yormu\u015f. Eskiden 800 \u00f6\u011frenci varken \u015fimdilerde 50 \u00f6\u011frenci varm\u0131\u015f.<\/p>\n Kantemir Evi<\/strong><\/p>\n \u00dcnl\u00fc tarih\u00e7i Romen Prensi Dimitri Kantemir gen\u00e7li\u011finde g\u00f6nderildi\u011fi Enderun\u2019da do\u011fu k\u00fclt\u00fcr\u00fcn\u00fc \u00f6\u011frenmi\u015f. 1710\u2019da Bo\u011fdan voyvodal\u0131\u011f\u0131na atanm\u0131\u015f. Aral\u0131klarla ya\u015fad\u0131\u011f\u0131 \u0130stanbul\u2019da \u201cOsmanl\u0131 \u0130mparatorlu\u011funun Y\u00fckseli\u015fi ve \u00c7\u00f6k\u00fc\u015f\u00fc\u201d adl\u0131 bir eser yazm\u0131\u015f. Kendi icad\u0131 olan nota sistemi ile bir\u00e7ok klasik besteyi yok olmaktan kurtarm\u0131\u015f. Osmanl\u0131 k\u00fclt\u00fcr\u00fcn\u00fc bat\u0131ya tan\u0131tm\u0131\u015f.<\/p>\n Kantemir Rusya\u2019ya gittikten sonra da yazarl\u0131\u011fa devam etmi\u015ftir. Kantemir\u2019in, Osmanl\u0131 tarihi ile ilgili yazd\u0131\u011f\u0131 kitab\u0131n bat\u0131da Osmanl\u0131\u2019ya \u00f6n yarg\u0131 olu\u015fturdu\u011fu \u00f6ne s\u00fcr\u00fclm\u00fc\u015f. Kitap, Avrupa Devletleri\u2019ne T\u00fcrkler\u2019i yenilgiye u\u011fratmak i\u00e7in hayati \u00f6nem ta\u015f\u0131yan siyasi ve askeri \u00f6\u011f\u00fctler i\u00e7ermekteymi\u015f. Bu nedenle hain ilan edenler de bulunmaktaym\u0131\u015f.<\/p>\n Kantemir\u2019in Balat\u2019ta oturdu\u011fu harap olmu\u015f ev, Avrupa Birli\u011fi ve Fatih Belediyesi\u2019nin ortakla\u015fa y\u00fcr\u00fctt\u00fc\u011f\u00fc proje kapsam\u0131nda restore edilip 2010 y\u0131l\u0131nda hizmete a\u00e7\u0131lm\u0131\u015f. \u00dcst kat m\u00fcze, alt kat Fatih Belediyesi\u2019ne ait sosyal merkez olarak hayata ge\u00e7irilmi\u015f. Geldi\u011fimizde alt katta bir kafe vard\u0131. Ama m\u00fcze a\u00e7\u0131k de\u011fildi.<\/p>\n Evin yan\u0131ndan yoku\u015f yukar\u0131 \u00e7\u0131kan merdivenli sokaktan \u00e7\u0131k\u0131yoruz. Ad\u0131 da Merdivenli Sokak.<\/p>\n \u00c7\u0131kt\u0131k\u00e7a deniz manzaral\u0131 bir hal al\u0131yor.<\/p>\n Yoku\u015f bitiminde \u015firin pembe bir k\u00f6\u015fkle kar\u015f\u0131la\u015f\u0131yoruz. Sahibi de sokak ba\u015f\u0131na taburesini atm\u0131\u015f gelen ge\u00e7eni seyreden, konu\u015fkan g\u00fcler y\u00fczl\u00fc bir amca. Buras\u0131 bir\u00e7ok dizinin \u00e7ekildi\u011fi bir mekanm\u0131\u015f.<\/p>\n Buradan Rum Lisesi taraf\u0131na do\u011fru sola d\u00f6n\u00fcyoruz.<\/p>\n Yol bizi bir kiliseye g\u00f6t\u00fcr\u00fcyor. Rum Lisesi\u2019nin hemen arkas\u0131nda bulunuyor.<\/p>\n Meryem Ana Rum Ortodoks Kilisesi (Kanl\u0131 Kilise, Mo\u011follar\u2019\u0131n Meryem\u2019i Kilisesi, Panayia Muhliotissa Kilisesi)<\/strong><\/p>\n Hi\u00e7bir d\u00f6nemde camiye d\u00f6n\u00fc\u015fmemi\u015f \u0130stanbul\u2019daki tek kilise. 13. y\u00fczy\u0131lda k\u0131rm\u0131z\u0131 tu\u011fladan yap\u0131lm\u0131\u015f.<\/p>\n Fatih Camisi’ni yapan Rum as\u0131ll\u0131 Mimar Atik Ali, Fatih’e ricada bulundu\u011fu i\u00e7in kiliseye \u00e7evrilmiyor.<\/p>\n \u0130\u00e7eride foto\u011fraf \u00e7ekmek yasakm\u0131\u015f. Bir tane \u00e7ekmi\u015f bulundum.<\/p>\n Duvarda Fatih\u2019in ferman\u0131 (Orjinali Fener Rum Patrikhanesinde) var.<\/p>\n Ferman\u0131n \u00fcst\u00fcnde Noel Baba olarak bilinen Aya Nikola\u2019n\u0131n freski bulunuyor. Ayn\u0131 zamanda gemicilerin azizi.<\/p>\n Kanl\u0131 Kilise denmesinin nedeni fetih s\u0131ras\u0131nda Balat kap\u0131s\u0131ndan giren T\u00fcrk askerleri ile Bizansl\u0131lar aras\u0131nda en kanl\u0131 \u00e7arp\u0131\u015fmalar\u0131n bu kilisenin yak\u0131nlar\u0131nda ger\u00e7ekle\u015fmesi. \u0130lk yap\u0131ld\u0131\u011f\u0131nda \u00fcst\u00fc kubbe ile \u00f6rt\u00fcl\u00fc merkezi \u00e7evreleyen yar\u0131m kubbelerin olu\u015fturdu\u011fu bir yonca yapra\u011f\u0131 olarak tasarlanan kilise ge\u00e7irdi\u011fi \u00e7ok say\u0131da onar\u0131m sonucunda asimetrik hale gelmi\u015f.<\/p>\n Mo\u011follar\u2019\u0131n Meryem\u2019i denen asl\u0131nda Bizansl\u0131lar\u2019\u0131n Maria isimli bir prensesi. Diplomatik olaylarda kullan\u0131lm\u0131\u015f bir prenses. Mo\u011follar b\u00fcy\u00fck tehlike olunca Mo\u011fol Han\u0131 H\u00fclag\u00fc ile evlenmek \u00fczere g\u00f6nderilmi\u015f. Deve \u00fcst\u00fcnde ge\u00e7en uzun bir yolculu\u011fun ard\u0131ndan vard\u0131\u011f\u0131nda Han\u2019\u0131n \u00f6lm\u00fc\u015f oldu\u011funu \u00f6\u011freniyor. O\u011flu Abag\u00fc Han\u2019la evleniyor. 15 y\u0131l sonra sava\u015fta O da \u00f6l\u00fcnce ba\u015fkas\u0131 ile evlendirilmek istenmi\u015f. O geri d\u00f6nmeyi tercih etmi\u015f. Bu kilise-manast\u0131rda hayat\u0131n\u0131 tamamlam\u0131\u015f.<\/p>\n Gezi rotas\u0131n\u0131n \u00e7o\u011funu tamamlam\u0131\u015f idik ki ye\u011fenler biraz m\u0131z\u0131kland\u0131lar. Yine de olduk\u00e7a iyi dayand\u0131klar\u0131n\u0131 s\u00f6yleyebilirim.<\/p>\n Bu nedenle Bulgar Kilisesi ve tarihi agora meyhanesini bir dahaki sefere b\u0131rakarak gezimizi noktal\u0131yoruz. Esen kal\u0131n.<\/p>\n Aral\u0131k 2021’de Bulgar Kilisesi’ni gezme f\u0131rsat\u0131 bulduk.<\/p>\n Bulgar Kilisesi (Demir Kilise, Sveti Stefan Kilisesi)<\/strong><\/p>\n Osmanl\u0131 d\u00f6neminde b\u00f6lgede ciddi bir Bulgar n\u00fcfus bulunuyordu ve 19. y\u00fczy\u0131l ortas\u0131na kadar Fener\u2019deki Rum Ortodoks Patrikhanesi\u2019ne ba\u011fl\u0131 kiliselerde ibadet ediyorlard\u0131.\u00a018. y\u00fczy\u0131l\u0131n ikinci yar\u0131s\u0131nda Balkanlar\u2019da ba\u015flayan milliyet\u00e7ilik ak\u0131mlar\u0131ndan etkilenen Bulgarlar kendi kiliselerini kurma \u00e7abas\u0131na giri\u015fmi\u015flerdi.<\/p>\n Prens Stefan Bogoridi\u2019nin Fener ve Balat semtleri aras\u0131nda ba\u011f\u0131\u015flad\u0131\u011f\u0131 arazi \u00fczerindeki ah\u015fap hane, \u0130stanbul\u2019daki Bulgarlar’\u0131n g\u00f6n\u00fcll\u00fc yard\u0131mlar\u0131 ile 1848 y\u0131l\u0131nda kiliseye d\u00f6n\u00fc\u015ft\u00fcr\u00fclm\u00fc\u015f. 1898 y\u0131l\u0131nda ise ah\u015fap olan bu kilise yanm\u0131\u015f, \u00a0Hali\u00e7 k\u0131y\u0131s\u0131ndaki zeminin betonarme in\u015faata uygun olmamas\u0131 sebebiyle yerine bug\u00fcn hala ayakta olan Demir Kilise in\u015fa edilmi\u015f. Projenin mimar\u0131 \u00fcnl\u00fc Ermeni mimar Aznavur.<\/p>\n Kilise 7 y\u0131l s\u00fcren restorasyonun ard\u0131ndan 7 Ocak 2018\u2019de yeniden ibadete ve ziyarete a\u00e7\u0131ld\u0131.<\/p>\n 500 ton demirden yap\u0131lan kilise, d\u00fcnyada yap\u0131lm\u0131\u015f 3 demir kiliseden (Arjantin, Avusturya) ayakta kalan tek kilise.<\/p>\n Neobarok ve neogotik mimari tarz\u0131n\u0131n en iyi \u00f6rneklerinden biri olan Sveti Stefan Kilisesi d\u00f6nemin en \u00fcnl\u00fc kiliseleri aras\u0131nda yer almaktayd\u0131.<\/p>\n 3 kubbeli, Ha\u00e7 planl\u0131 kilisenin mihrab\u0131 Hali\u00e7\u2019e d\u00f6n\u00fck. \u00c7an kulesi 40 metre y\u00fckseklikte. \u00c7anlar\u0131n hepsi Rusya\u2019da d\u00f6k\u00fclm\u00fc\u015f.<\/p>\n Alt\u0131n yald\u0131zl\u0131, g\u00f6rkemli ah\u015fap ikonastas b\u00f6l\u00fcm\u00fc yap\u0131daki demirden olmayan tek yap\u0131 eleman\u0131. Bu b\u00f6l\u00fcmde Rus ressamlar\u0131n yapt\u0131\u011f\u0131 orijinal resimler yer al\u0131yor.<\/p>\n Perispri Restaurant<\/strong><\/p>\n Balat\u2019ta seramik ve cam sanat\u00e7\u0131s\u0131 Cahide Erel taraf\u0131ndan a\u00e7\u0131lm\u0131\u015f bir restoran. Do\u011fu Roma, Bizans ve Osmanl\u0131 mutfa\u011f\u0131 ile geleneksel T\u00fcrk mutfa\u011f\u0131 lezzetlerinin 1850-1950 d\u00f6nemlerine ait antikalarla servis edildi\u011fi, harikulade atmosfere sahip bir mekan. Her k\u00f6\u015fesi antika e\u015fyalarla dolu.<\/p>\n Perispri; ruhun bedenle ba\u011f kurmas\u0131n\u0131 sa\u011flayan yar\u0131 maddi, ak\u0131\u015fkan bir madde. Kimine g\u00f6re varl\u0131\u011f\u0131n \u00f6z\u00fc, kimine g\u00f6re \u2018varolan\u2019\u0131n kendisi. Perispri hi\u00e7bir zaman yok olmaz, bedenler de\u011fi\u015fse de ezeli ruhu yeni bedenlerle ebediyete ta\u015f\u0131r. \u2018Perispri\u2019 hep vard\u0131r; bazen sezgi, bazen deja vu, bazen de an\u0131msama san\u0131l\u0131r.<\/p>\n <\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":" Hemen her sene \u0130stanbul’a geliriz. Kay\u0131nbiraderim burada oturuyor. O\u011fullar\u0131m da yine bu g\u00fczel \u015fehirde okuyorlar. Geldi\u011fimde ufac\u0131k bir zaman aral\u0131\u011f\u0131 bulsam -yaln\u0131z veya ailece- daha \u00f6nce haz\u0131rl\u0131k yapt\u0131\u011f\u0131m hatta rotas\u0131n\u0131 \u00e7izdi\u011fim tarihi semtleri gezerim.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":1444,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[124,123],"tags":[140,127,137,501,128,138,135,129,130,126,133,132,125,139,136,131],"class_list":["post-1424","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-fener-balat-cibali","category-istanbul","tag-aya-nikola-kilisesi","tag-balat","tag-bizans","tag-bulgar-kilisesi","tag-cibali","tag-dimitri-kantemir","tag-fatih-sultan-mehmet","tag-fener-rum-lisesi","tag-fener-rum-patrikhanesi","tag-fenre","tag-gul-camisi","tag-halic","tag-istanbul","tag-kanli-kilise","tag-ortodoks","tag-rezan-has-muzesi"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.yeryuzundebirkacadim.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1424","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.yeryuzundebirkacadim.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.yeryuzundebirkacadim.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.yeryuzundebirkacadim.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.yeryuzundebirkacadim.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=1424"}],"version-history":[{"count":17,"href":"https:\/\/www.yeryuzundebirkacadim.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1424\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":4520,"href":"https:\/\/www.yeryuzundebirkacadim.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1424\/revisions\/4520"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.yeryuzundebirkacadim.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/1444"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.yeryuzundebirkacadim.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=1424"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.yeryuzundebirkacadim.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=1424"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.yeryuzundebirkacadim.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=1424"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}![\"D:\\2016-04-24-Ayla\\album-2016\\ist.](\"https:\/\/www.yeryuzundebirkacadim.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/03\/d-2016-04-24-ayla-album-2016-ist-fener-20160910_.jpeg\")
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<\/strong><\/p>\n![\"D:\\2016-04-24-Ayla\\album-2016\\ist.](\"https:\/\/www.yeryuzundebirkacadim.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/03\/d-2016-04-24-ayla-album-2016-ist-fener-20160910_-5.jpeg\")
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