{"id":1,"date":"2016-05-04T22:42:18","date_gmt":"2016-05-04T19:42:18","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.yeryuzundebirkacadim.com\/?p=1"},"modified":"2024-08-19T13:57:09","modified_gmt":"2024-08-19T10:57:09","slug":"hiva","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.yeryuzundebirkacadim.com\/index.php\/2016\/05\/04\/hiva\/","title":{"rendered":"Hiva"},"content":{"rendered":"
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\u00d6zbekistan gezimizde \u00f6nce Ta\u015fkenti gezmi\u015ftik. Gezimizin 2. g\u00fcn\u00fc gecesi ge\u00e7 saatlerde Hiva’ya var\u0131yoruz. Urgen\u00e7 ve Hiva;\u00a0Harezm<\/strong> vilayetinin \u015fehirleridir. Harezm; s\u0131cak \u00fclke demek. Gece otob\u00fcsle \u015fehrin kap\u0131s\u0131ndan i\u00e7 kaleye giriyor ve \u0131\u015f\u0131ks\u0131z bir ortamda ilerleyerek otelimize var\u0131yoruz.<\/div>\n

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Aman Allah\u2019\u0131m. Buras\u0131 tarihi bir medrese. Yani biz, \u015fu anda otel olan tarihi bir medresede, eskiden \u00f6\u011frencilerin kald\u0131\u011f\u0131 odalarda, yani tarihin i\u00e7inde kal\u0131yoruz. R\u00fcya gibi. Yatmadan \u00f6nce 2. kattaki odam\u0131z\u0131n \u00f6n\u00fcndeki terastan i\u00e7 avluyu seyrederek oturuyoruz biraz. (Hiva\u2019n\u0131n masals\u0131, mistik ruhunu ertesi g\u00fcn, g\u00fcn a\u011far\u0131nca daha iyi anlayaca\u011f\u0131z).<\/p>\n

3. G\u00fcn: 26 Temmuz 2015 Pazar: Hiva<\/strong><\/p>\n

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Hiva; Harezm k\u00fclt\u00fcr\u00fcn\u00fcn varisi, eski bir \u015fehir. Onuncu\u00a0y\u00fczy\u0131lda ipek yolu \u00fczerinde \u00f6nemli bir ticaret noktas\u0131 olmu\u015f. \u00c7in\u2019den yola \u00e7\u0131kan b\u00fct\u00fcn kervanlar, bir zamanlar bu \u015fehirde konakl\u0131yormu\u015f.<\/p>\n

Persler, Araplar, Harezm Hanl\u0131\u011f\u0131, Mo\u011follar, Timuriler, \u015eeybaniler, \u00d6zbekler, \u0130ranl\u0131lar, T\u00fcrkmenler, Kazaklar, Ruslar d\u00f6nem d\u00f6nem Hiva’n\u0131n kaderinde h\u00fck\u00fcm s\u00fcrm\u00fc\u015f, s\u00f6z sahibi olmu\u015flard\u0131r.<\/p>\n

1920’de son han Abdullah tasviye edilmi\u015f ve\u00a0\u015fehir Sovyet Harezm Cumhuriyetinin ba\u015fkenti olmu\u015ftur.<\/p>\n

1924 y\u0131l\u0131nda ise modern \u00d6zbekistan ve T\u00fcrkmenistan\u2019\u0131n bir par\u00e7as\u0131 haline gelmi\u015f.<\/p>\n

Efsaneye g\u00f6re \u00e7\u00f6lde su arayan bitkin ya\u015fl\u0131 adam, sopayla yere vurur ve orada bir kuyu bulur. Bunun \u00fczerine sevin\u00e7le ba\u011f\u0131r\u0131r ve sonraki s\u00f6zleri \u201cHey Vah\u201d olur. Sonra bu kelimeler Hiva halini al\u0131r. Ve \u015fehir kurulur.<\/p>\n

Ba\u015fka bir efsaneye g\u00f6re Zerd\u00fc\u015ftl\u00fc\u011f\u00fcn kurucusu olan Zerd\u00fc\u015ft burada do\u011fmu\u015ftur.<\/p>\n

Hiva bug\u00fcn hala orta \u00e7a\u011fda kalm\u0131\u015f bir \u015fehir. De\u011fi\u015ftirilmemi\u015f. \u00a0\u201cD\u00fcnyan\u0131n yedi harikas\u0131\u201dndan biri olarak kabul ediliyor. \u0130\u00e7 kalede yeni hi\u00e7bir yap\u0131 yok. \u015eehir bu \u00f6zelli\u011fi ile 1990 y\u0131l\u0131nda UNESCO taraf\u0131ndan \u201cD\u00fcnya K\u00fclt\u00fcr Miras\u0131 Listesi\u201dne dahil edilerek koruma alt\u0131na al\u0131nm\u0131\u015f. Foto\u011fraf\u00e7\u0131lar i\u00e7in bir cennet. \u0130yi restore edilmi\u015f eski eserler, \u0131\u015f\u0131\u011f\u0131n b\u00fcy\u00fcl\u00fc g\u00fcc\u00fc ile g\u00fczel foto\u011fraflar \u00e7ekebilmenizi sa\u011fl\u0131yor.<\/p>\n

\u015eehrin n\u00fcfusu 50.000<\/p>\n

Evet sabahleyin bu tarihi mekanda uyanman\u0131n nas\u0131l bir \u015fey oldu\u011funu tarif etmek zor, hatta imkans\u0131z. Ya\u015famak laz\u0131m:)<\/p>\n

G\u00fcnd\u00fcz g\u00f6z\u00fcyle inceliyoruz kald\u0131\u011f\u0131m\u0131z oteli. Buras\u0131 Muhammed Emin Han Medresesi. (Orient Star Hiva Oteli).<\/p>\n

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\"\"\u00a0Otelimizin reklam bro\u015f\u00fcr\u00fc.<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n

Otelin \u00f6n\u00fcne \u00e7\u0131kt\u0131\u011f\u0131m\u0131zda bir foto\u011fraf\u00e7\u0131n\u0131n taht benzeri bir koltuk koyup kalpak ve k\u0131l\u0131\u00e7la, isteyenlerin foto\u011fraflar\u0131n\u0131 \u00e7ekti\u011fini g\u00f6r\u00fcyoruz. Arka planda otel bulunuyor. Film setinde gibiyiz. Orta\u00e7a\u011f tarihine al\u0131\u015ft\u0131rmaya \u00e7al\u0131\u015f\u0131yorum kendimi. Dedi\u011fim gibi tarihin i\u00e7indeyiz adeta.<\/p>\n

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Etraf\u0131 \u015fa\u015fk\u0131n ve hayran hayran seyrederken kafam\u0131 sa\u011fa \u00e7evirdi\u011fimde \u015fehrin simgesi Kalta Min\u00f6r\u00fcn otelimizin yan\u0131nda oldu\u011funu g\u00f6r\u00fcyorum. Bakmaya doyam\u0131yorum minareye. Otelin ikinci kat\u0131ndan minareye ge\u00e7i\u015f de g\u00f6r\u00fcl\u00fcyor.<\/div>\n
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Geziden d\u00f6nd\u00fckten sonra gazetede bir gezi yaz\u0131s\u0131nda bir yazar\u0131n \u00d6zbekistan yaz\u0131s\u0131n\u0131 okudum. Hiva\u2019dan bahsettikten sonra son olarak \u201cBir daha buraya gelmek isterim ama bu sefer Orient Star Hiva otelinde kalmak \u00fczere\u201d diyordu. Kendimi \u00e7ok \u015fansl\u0131 hissettim.<\/div>\n
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Kahvalt\u0131 ve yemeklerimizi otelin kar\u015f\u0131s\u0131ndaki medresede yiyece\u011fiz:\u00a0Metniyaz Divan Beyi Medresesi.<\/strong><\/p>\n

\u00a0Rehberimiz e\u015fli\u011finde topland\u0131ktan sonra \u00f6nce bize yak\u0131n olan bat\u0131 kap\u0131s\u0131ndan (Ata Dervoza)\u00a0 surlar\u0131n d\u0131\u015f\u0131na \u00e7\u0131k\u0131yoruz.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n

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Burada bir heykelin \u00f6n\u00fcne geliyoruz.<\/p>\n

El Harezmi Heykeli<\/strong><\/p>\n

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Cebrin (aritmetik) babalar\u0131ndan\u00a0El Harezmi\u2019nin heykeli\u00a0 i\u00e7 kaleye girmeden \u00f6nce kar\u015f\u0131l\u0131yor bizi. 9yy.da bu kentte ya\u015fam\u0131\u015f. O ve ondan sonra gelen El Biruni, \u0130bni Sina,\u00a0 \u00d6mer Hayyam ve di\u011ferleri bu topraklarda ya\u015fayan bilim ve sanat adamlar\u0131. Bir d\u00f6nem ilim do\u011fudaym\u0131\u015f.<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n
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\u0130pek yolu; \u00c7in’den ba\u015flayarak\u00a0Anadolu\u00a0ve Akdeniz arac\u0131l\u0131\u011f\u0131yla\u00a0Avrupa’ya kadar uzanan ve d\u00fcnyaca \u00fcnl\u00fc ticaret yolu.\u00a0\u0130pek Yolu sadece t\u00fcccarlar\u0131n de\u011fil, ayn\u0131 zamanda do\u011fudan bat\u0131ya ve bat\u0131dan do\u011fuya bilgelerin, ordular\u0131n, fikirlerin, dinlerin ve k\u00fclt\u00fcrlerin de yolu olmu\u015f.<\/div>\n
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\u015eehri gezerken yararland\u0131\u011f\u0131m harita buydu.<\/p>\n

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Itchan-Kala (\u0130\u00e7 kale): A\u00e7\u0131k Hava M\u00fczesi<\/strong><\/p>\n

Itchan-kala, \u0130ran\u2019a ula\u015fmak i\u00e7in \u00e7\u00f6l\u00fc ge\u00e7meden \u00f6nce kervanlar\u0131n son dinlenme yeriydi.<\/p>\n

Orta Asya\u2019n\u0131n M\u00fcsl\u00fcman mimarisinin korundu\u011fu yer bug\u00fcn “Devlet Tarih ve Arkeoloji M\u00fczesi\u201dne d\u00f6n\u00fc\u015ft\u00fcr\u00fclm\u00fc\u015f. Ge\u00e7mi\u015fte 40 bin n\u00fcfuslu Hiva\u2019da sadece soylular ve medreselerde e\u011fitim g\u00f6ren ki\u015filer i\u00e7 kalede ya\u015farm\u0131\u015f. Di\u011fer halk kale d\u0131\u015f\u0131nda ya\u015far, ticaret ve e\u011fitim i\u00e7in gelirmi\u015f.<\/p>\n

B\u00f6lgede yakla\u015f\u0131k 51 antik an\u0131tsal yap\u0131 ve 250 konut bulunuyor. Medreseler \u015fehri ayn\u0131 zamanda.<\/p>\n

Burada g\u00fcn\u00fcm\u00fczde\u00a0 el sanatlar\u0131 ile u\u011fra\u015fan 300 aile ya\u015f\u0131yormu\u015f.<\/p>\n

D\u0131\u015f kaleyi \u00e7eviren surlar\u0131n sadece kal\u0131nt\u0131lar\u0131 kalm\u0131\u015f.<\/p>\n

\u0130\u00e7 kale 10 metre y\u00fckseklikte 2 km uzunlukta kil-kerpi\u00e7 duvarlarla \u00e7evrili.<\/p>\n

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Kalenin 4 kap\u0131s\u0131 var.<\/p>\n

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Bat\u0131 y\u00f6n\u00fcndeki kap\u0131;\u00a0Ata Darwaza, G\u00fcneydeki;\u00a0Tosh Darvoza (Ta\u015f Kap\u0131), Kuzeydeki;\u00a0Bogcha Darvoza (Bah\u00e7e kap\u0131), Do\u011fu y\u00f6n\u00fcndeki kap\u0131;\u00a0Palvan Darvoza (Amu Derya, Pehlivan Kap\u0131)d\u0131r.<\/p>\n

\u0130\u00e7 kale do\u011fu bat\u0131 y\u00f6n\u00fcnde 600metre, kuzey g\u00fcney y\u00f6n\u00fcnde 450 metre. Bu alan\u0131n i\u00e7inde hi\u00e7 yeni bina yok, tamam\u0131 eski eser ve koruma alt\u0131nda.<\/p>\n

Turumuza Ata Darvoza\u2019dan (bat\u0131 kap\u0131s\u0131) ba\u015fl\u0131yoruz.<\/p>\n

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\u00a0Giri\u015fte sa\u011fda Kalta Minor g\u00f6z\u00fck\u00fcyor.<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n

Ata Darvoza’dan\u00a0girince sa\u011fda ilk yap\u0131 Muhammed Emin Medresesi.<\/p>\n

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Muhammed Emin Han Medresesi<\/strong><\/div>\n

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Kunya Ark’tan Muhammed Emin Medresesinin g\u00f6r\u00fcn\u00fcm\u00fc (Orient Star Hiva)<\/p>\n

Hiva\u2019n\u0131n en b\u00fcy\u00fck orta\u00e7a\u011f medresesi.\u00a0 O kadar geni\u015f alan ki in\u015faat s\u0131ras\u0131nda surlar y\u0131k\u0131lm\u0131\u015f ve ileri ta\u015f\u0131nm\u0131\u015f.<\/p>\n

Hiva Han\u0131 Muhammed Emin Han (1845-1855) Kunya Ark\u2019\u0131n kar\u015f\u0131s\u0131na bu yap\u0131y\u0131 1851-54 y\u0131llar\u0131nda yapt\u0131r\u0131yor.\u00a0 Emin Han; \u0130ran \u00fczerine ak\u0131nlar yapan, 40 bin atl\u0131 orduya sahip bir kumandan.<\/p>\n

Yapt\u0131rd\u0131\u011f\u0131 bu medresenin kitabesinde: \u201cBu m\u00fckemmel yap\u0131 sonsuza dek gelecek nesillerin mutlulu\u011fu i\u00e7in ayakta dikili kalacakt\u0131r\u201d yaz\u0131yormu\u015f.<\/p>\n

Yap\u0131larda en dikkati \u00e7eken mekanlar ta\u00e7 kap\u0131lar. Ta\u00e7 kap\u0131lar binalardan daha y\u00fcksek olarak in\u015fa ediliyor.\u00a0 Yap\u0131n\u0131n b\u00fct\u00fcn\u00fcne uygun bi\u00e7imde tu\u011fladan yap\u0131lmakta ve tu\u011flalar s\u0131rlanarak \u00e7inilerle bezenmektedir.<\/p>\n

Yap\u0131n\u0131n be\u015f kubbesi ve yan kuleleri bulunur. 125 h\u00fccresi ile 260 \u00fczerinde \u00f6\u011frenciyi bar\u0131nd\u0131r\u0131yormu\u015f. \u0130kinci kattaki h\u00fccrelerin d\u0131\u015f tarafa bakan k\u0131s\u0131mlar\u0131nda kemerli sundurmalar bulunuyor.<\/p>\n

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\u00a0Ruslar 20. yy.da \u00fcniversite olarak kullan\u0131yor. 2. D\u00fcnya sava\u015f\u0131ndan sonra hapishane olarak kullan\u0131l\u0131yor. 1977\u2019den sonra restoran, 1983\u2019den sonra otel olarak kullan\u0131l\u0131yor.<\/p>\n

Kalta Minor (K\u0131sa Minare, G\u00f6k Minare)<\/strong><\/p>\n

\u015eehrin sembol\u00fcd\u00fcr. Medresenin yan\u0131nda, tamamlanmam\u0131\u015f bu minare mavi renkli s\u0131rla kaplanm\u0131\u015f. Taban\u0131 14,2 metre \u00e7apta. Uzunlu\u011funun 80 metre ile Orta Asyan\u0131n en uzun minaresi olmas\u0131 planlanm\u0131\u015f. 1885\u2019de yap\u0131m\u0131na ba\u015flanan minare, Han\u0131n \u00f6l\u00fcm\u00fc ile meydana gelen kaos ve didi\u015fme nedeni ile 26 metrede kal\u0131yor. Rivayet odur ki: Minarenin mimar\u0131 bu minareyi bitirince Buhara Han\u0131 i\u00e7in Buhara\u2019da daha y\u00fcksek bir minare yapacakt\u0131r. Bunu \u00f6\u011frenen Han k\u0131z\u0131p \u00e7ileden \u00e7\u0131k\u0131yor ve mimar\u0131 kaleden atarak \u00f6ld\u00fcr\u00fcyor. Minare yar\u0131m kal\u0131yor.<\/p>\n

Burada minareler genellikle konik. Yukar\u0131ya do\u011fru inceliyor. Kalta minare askeri g\u00f6zlem evi olarak kullan\u0131m\u0131n\u0131n yan\u0131 s\u0131ra kervanlar\u0131n u\u011frak yeri oldu\u011fundan onlara yol g\u00f6steren fener olarak da kullan\u0131lm\u0131\u015ft\u0131r.<\/p>\n

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Kunya Ark \u00a0(Kohna Ark: Eski Kale)<\/strong><\/p>\n

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\u0130\u00e7 kalenin i\u00e7inde eski bir kale. 1,2 hektarl\u0131k bir alana kurulu. 8 metre y\u00fcksekli\u011finde bir kap\u0131 ile kaleye giriliyor. Giri\u015fte \u201cKadim (Eski) Harezm M\u00fczesi\u201d yaz\u0131yor. (\u00d6zbek rehberimiz \u00d6zbeklerin eski T\u00fcrk\u00e7eyi do\u011fru kulland\u0131klar\u0131n\u0131, bizim kulland\u0131\u011f\u0131m\u0131z dilin ise \u00f6zellikle \u0130ngilizceden al\u0131nan kelimelerle bozuldu\u011funu s\u00f6yl\u00fcyor).<\/p>\n

Kale kap\u0131s\u0131n\u0131n \u00f6n\u00fcnde eskiden k\u00f6le pazar\u0131 kurulurmu\u015f. Hivan\u0131n bir zenginlik kayna\u011f\u0131 da bu \u00fcnl\u00fc pazarm\u0131\u015f.<\/p>\n

Kale; Ebul Gazi Han\u0131n b\u00fcy\u00fck o\u011flu Muhammed Erenek Han taraf\u0131ndan 1687-1688 y\u0131l\u0131nda y\u00f6netim merkezi olarak yapt\u0131r\u0131lm\u0131\u015f. Bir y\u00fczy\u0131l sonra y\u00fcksek duvarlarla i\u00e7 kaleden ayr\u0131lm\u0131\u015f. \u015eehir i\u00e7inde \u015fehir olmu\u015f. Cami, konut, y\u00fcksek avlu, bekleme odas\u0131, barut fabrikas\u0131, tophane, darphane, sicil dairesi, harem, mutfak, ah\u0131r, muhaf\u0131z evi vb. yap\u0131lardan olu\u015fuyormu\u015f. Orijinal yap\u0131 \u0130ran askerleri taraf\u0131ndan 18. yy.da y\u0131k\u0131lm\u0131\u015f.\u00a0 Bug\u00fcnk\u00fc yap\u0131 \u0130ltuzar Han taraf\u0131ndan 1804-1806 y\u0131l\u0131nda yapt\u0131r\u0131lm\u0131\u015f. Kaleden g\u00fcn\u00fcm\u00fcze yaln\u0131zca 19. y\u00fczy\u0131l ve 20 y\u00fczy\u0131l ba\u015flar\u0131nda yap\u0131lan birka\u00e7 bina korunarak gelebilmi\u015f.<\/p>\n

Bunlar yazl\u0131k cami, kabul salonu, hamam, darphane, haremdir.<\/p>\n

Yazl\u0131k Cami<\/strong><\/p>\n

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\u00dc\u00e7 taraf\u0131 kapal\u0131, bir taraf\u0131 a\u00e7\u0131k \u015fekilde yap\u0131lm\u0131\u015f. Beyaz, a\u00e7\u0131k ve koyu mavi mozaiklerle d\u00f6\u015fenmi\u015f.<\/p>\n

Nefis \u00e7i\u00e7ek desenleri i\u015flenmi\u015f.<\/p>\n

(M\u00fcze ve tarihi eserler i\u00e7inde seyyar sat\u0131c\u0131lar s\u0131k kar\u015f\u0131la\u015f\u0131lan bir durum burada )<\/p>\n

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Caminin tavan\u0131, zarif alt\u0131n desenlerle s\u00fcslenerek boyanm\u0131\u015ft\u0131r.<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n
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Duvardaki \u00e7iniler ortalar\u0131ndaki \u00e7ivilerden duvara tutturulmu\u015f. Hepsinin \u00fczerinde nereye d\u00f6\u015fenece\u011fini g\u00f6sterir numaralar var (Arap harfleri ile).<\/p>\n

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Darphane<\/strong><\/p>\n

Alt\u0131n, g\u00fcm\u00fc\u015f, bak\u0131r, ka\u011f\u0131t\u00a0 paralar yan\u0131 s\u0131ra ipek para da basm\u0131\u015flar.<\/p>\n

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Bug\u00fcn 300\u2019den fazla Hiva paras\u0131 Hermitage\u2019da sergileniyormu\u015f.<\/p>\n

Bah\u00e7ede ufak bir m\u00fczeye giriyoruz. Burada d\u00f6rt\u00a0duvarda d\u00f6rt\u00a0alimin foto\u011fraflar\u0131 bulunuyor:<\/p>\n

Biruni \u2013 El Harezmi \u2013 Ulu\u011f Bey \u2013 \u0130bni Sina<\/p>\n

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Zindan<\/strong><\/p>\n

G\u00fcn\u00fcm\u00fczde zindan m\u00fczesi olarak kullan\u0131l\u0131yor. \u0130\u015fkence aletleri de sergilenmekte.<\/p>\n

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Kabul Salonu<\/strong><\/p>\n

Avlunun ortas\u0131ndaki yuvarlak platformun \u00fcst\u00fcne \u00e7ad\u0131r koyup kabul salonu olarak kullan\u0131yorlarm\u0131\u015f.<\/p>\n

Arkada seyir teras\u0131 g\u00f6r\u00fcl\u00fcyor. Hive Emirinin \u015fehrini seyretti\u011fi bu terasa tavsiye edildi\u011fi gibi g\u00fcn bat\u0131m\u0131nda tekrar geldik. Foto\u011fraf \u00e7ekimi i\u00e7in de \u00e7ok uygun bir zaman oldu. B\u00f6ylece\u00a0e\u015fim e\u015fsiz manzaray\u0131 foto\u011fraflad\u0131.<\/p>\n

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Kalede 19. y\u00fczy\u0131l\u0131n ikinci yar\u0131s\u0131nda Muhammed Rahim han taraf\u0131ndan yapt\u0131r\u0131lm\u0131\u015f bir harem bulunuyor.<\/p>\n

Muhammed Rahimhan II Medresesi (Hiva Hanl\u0131\u011f\u0131 Tarih M\u00fczesi)<\/strong><\/p>\n

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Kunya Ark\u0131n kar\u015f\u0131s\u0131nda bulunuyor. Hiva\u2019n\u0131n en b\u00fcy\u00fck medreselerinden biri. Seyid Muhammed Rahim Han II (1863-1910) taraf\u0131ndan yapt\u0131r\u0131lm\u0131\u015ft\u0131r. \u0130ki katl\u0131d\u0131r. D\u00f6rt eyvanl\u0131 avlu ve k\u00f6\u015felerde k\u00fc\u00e7\u00fck kuleler\u00a0 bulunur.<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n

Yaz ve k\u0131\u015f camileri, geni\u015f bir k\u00fct\u00fcphane ve 76 derslik bulunur.\u00a0Muhammed Rahim-han \u00d6zbek \u015eair Feruz \u015eah takma ad\u0131yla \u015fiirler yazm\u0131\u015ft\u0131r. Medresede g\u00fcnd\u00fcz e\u011fitim verilmi\u015f, ak\u015famlar\u0131 \u015fiirler okunup musiki meclisleri kurulmu\u015ftur. \u015eiir yar\u0131\u015fmalar\u0131 d\u00fczenlenirmi\u015f.<\/p>\n

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Rahim Han<\/p>\n

\u015eu anda m\u00fczede Rahim Han\u0131n ve \u00fcnl\u00fc veziri Hoca \u0130slam\u2019\u0131n foto\u011fraflar\u0131 var. Divan bey Rusya\u2019dan ilk foto\u011fraf makinas\u0131n\u0131 getirip onlar\u0131n foto\u011fraf\u0131n\u0131 \u00e7ekmi\u015f.<\/p>\n

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Allauddin T\u00fcrbesi<\/strong><\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n
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Seyid Allauddin do\u011funun \u00fcnl\u00fc\u00a0tasavvuf \u015feyhlerindendir. Arap olup 14 yy.da \u0130slamiyeti anlatmaya gelmi\u015f.<\/p>\n

T\u00fcrbenin yap\u0131m tarihi kesin olarak bilinmemektedir. Zaten bir\u00e7ok kez yenilenmi\u015f. Ancak tarih\u00e7ilere g\u00f6re ilk olarak 14. y\u00fczy\u0131l\u0131n ikinci yar\u0131s\u0131nda yap\u0131ld\u0131\u011f\u0131 d\u00fc\u015f\u00fcn\u00fclmektedir.
\n1825\u2019te t\u00fcrbe duvar\u0131na yaz\u0131lan kitabede: \u201cBaz\u0131 zamanlar Kabe\u2019de ya\u015fad\u0131. Son olarak buraya geldi. O ismi Alaaddin olan, bilim denizinin e\u015fsiz cevheridir\u201d yaz\u0131yor.<\/p>\n

O zamandan bu yana, t\u00fcrbe inananlar taraf\u0131ndan ziyaret edilmektedir.<\/p>\n

\u0130ki oda var. Ziyaret ve kabir odas\u0131.<\/p>\n

Burada kabirler yerin \u00fcst\u00fcnde. \u00c7\u00fcnk\u00fc 2 metreden su \u00e7\u0131k\u0131yormu\u015f. Mezarlar\u0131n yer alt\u0131 sular\u0131n\u0131 kirletmemesi i\u00e7in b\u00f6yle yap\u0131yorlarm\u0131\u015f.<\/p>\n

\u00d6zbekler, Rus d\u00f6neminde din yasak oldu\u011fundan Arap\u00e7a\u00a0 dua bilmiyorlar. Bu nedenle cami ve medreselerde dua okuyan din adamlar\u0131n\u0131n yan\u0131na oturuyorlar. Din adamlar\u0131 onlar\u0131n yerine dua okuyor. Biraz para veriyorlar.<\/p>\n

Buradan \u00e7\u0131k\u0131\u015fta a\u011fa\u00e7 i\u015f\u00e7ili\u011fi yapan bir at\u00f6lyeye gidiyoruz. \u00c7ok kademeli portatif rahle yap\u0131m\u0131n\u0131 g\u00f6steriyorlar.<\/p>\n

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\u00a0Yakup Hoca Medresesi de \u015fu an hal\u0131 dokuma ve sat\u0131\u015f yeri olmu\u015f. Oraya da k\u0131sa bir ziyaret yap\u0131yoruz.\u00a0Gruptan arkada\u015flar\u0131n hal\u0131 pazarl\u0131\u011f\u0131nda oldu\u011funu g\u00f6r\u00fcyoruz.<\/div>\n
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Pehlivan Mahmut T\u00fcrbesi<\/strong><\/p>\n

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Pehlivan Mahmud, Seyid Alauddin\u2019e e\u011fitim i\u00e7in gidiyor. Ayn\u0131 zamanda pehlivan, \u015fair, sava\u015f\u00e7\u0131 ve denizci. 1247-1326 y\u0131llar\u0131nda ya\u015fam\u0131\u015f. Mo\u011fol istilas\u0131 zaman\u0131nda Harezm \u015eahini denmi\u015f. Hindistan ve \u0130ran\u2019da g\u00fcre\u015flere kat\u0131lm\u0131\u015f. Hi\u00e7 yenilmemi\u015f. Hindistan\u2019dan d\u00f6nerken ald\u0131\u011f\u0131 k\u00f6leleri Hiva\u2019ya gelince azad ediyor. Kazand\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131n az bir k\u0131sm\u0131n\u0131 harcay\u0131p gerisini da\u011f\u0131t\u0131yor. Bekarm\u0131\u015f. \u00d6lece\u011fine yak\u0131n evlenmedi\u011fi i\u00e7in pi\u015fman olmu\u015f. Nesli yok olacak ve mezar\u0131n\u0131 kimse ziyarete gelemeyecek diye. Vasiyeti \u00fczerine \u00f6l\u00fcnce d\u00fckkan\u0131na g\u00f6m\u00fclm\u00fc\u015f. Buras\u0131 14.-15. yy.da kutsal bir mezarl\u0131\u011fa d\u00f6n\u00fc\u015fm\u00fc\u015f.<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n

18 yy.da Muhammed Rahim Han sayg\u0131 i\u00e7in mezar\u0131n \u00fczerine bir t\u00fcrbe yap\u0131yor. Hanl\u0131ktan \u00f6len insanlar da buraya defnedilmeye ba\u015flan\u0131yor. Giderek dini bir merkez haline geliyor.<\/p>\n

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\u00a0Do\u011fu mimarisinin sembol\u00fc olarak mavi kubbeler genellikle Semerkant ve Buhara \u015fehirlerinde g\u00f6r\u00fcl\u00fcrken, Hiva \u015fehrinde kubbeler kum renginde. Sadece Pehlivan Mahmud t\u00fcrbesi\u00a0mavi \u00e7ini ile s\u0131rlanm\u0131\u015f.<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n
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T\u00fcrbenin girince kar\u015f\u0131da Rahim Han\u0131n t\u00fcrbesinde Kur\u2019an okuyan gen\u00e7 din g\u00f6revlisi bizim T\u00fcrk oldu\u011fumuzu anl\u0131yor. K\u0131sa bir sohbet yap\u0131yoruz. G\u00f6revlinin \u00f6n\u00fcnde yine dua okumay\u0131 bilmeyen insanlar var. Masadaki ekmek hep dua masas\u0131nda oldu\u011fu i\u00e7in dual\u0131 diye gelen insanlar bir miktar kopar\u0131p al\u0131yor. Yerine yeni getirdikleri ekme\u011fi koyuyorlar. B\u00f6ylece bir sonraki duada o dual\u0131 oluyor. Biz de ekmekten bir par\u00e7a kopard\u0131k. Ayr\u0131ca yeni evlenen \u00e7iftler buraya gelir \u00e7ocuklu ve mutlu aile dileklerinde bulunurmu\u015f.<\/p>\n

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Soldaki odada Mahmut Pehlivan\u2019\u0131n t\u00fcrbesi yer al\u0131yor. T\u00fcrbe; \u00e7i\u00e7ek ve geometrik desenli \u00e7inilerle bezenmi\u015f.<\/p>\n

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T\u00fcrbenin avlusunda kutsal kabul edilen su (dilek p\u0131nar\u0131) var.<\/p>\n

T\u00fcrbedeki bir yaz\u0131, grubumuzdan baz\u0131 arkada\u015flar\u0131n dikkatini \u00e7ekmi\u015f. Bizdeki \u201cHak verilmez al\u0131n\u0131r\u201d s\u00f6z\u00fcn\u00fc akla getirtip d\u00fc\u015f\u00fcnd\u00fcrtecek bir s\u00f6z: \u201cHakk\u0131n\u0131 hak et\u201d.\u00a0 \u00c7ok do\u011fru ve manidar de\u011fil mi!<\/p>\n

\u00d6\u011flen yeme\u011fine gidiyoruz.<\/p>\n

\u015e\u0131k bir restoran. Her yemekte masada tabaklar\u0131n yan\u0131nda ufak \u00e7erez taba\u011f\u0131 benzeri porselen bir kap oluyor. Yemek sonunda 4-6 ki\u015fiye bir porselen \u00e7ay demli\u011fi getiriyorlar ve \u00e7aylar bu kaplarla i\u00e7iliyor. As\u0131l \u00e7aylar\u0131 ye\u015fil \u00e7ay. Bizim \u00e7ay (kara \u00e7ay diyorlar) istenirse getiriliyor. Ve \u00e7ok \u00e7ok a\u00e7\u0131k \u00e7aylar. Suyunun suyu gibi. Gelen \u00e7ay\u0131n kara \u00e7ay oldu\u011funu bile renginden anlayam\u0131yoruz. Yine sofrada f\u0131st\u0131k, siyah kuru \u00fcz\u00fcm gibi \u00e7erezler ve naneli s\u00fczme yo\u011furt haz\u0131r bulunuyor. Bu restoranda \u00f6nce b\u00f6rek dedikleri D \u015feklinde, i\u00e7inde yumurta olan ha\u015flanm\u0131\u015f bir yemek geldi. Ard\u0131ndan\u00a0 Harezm pilav\u0131n\u0131 afiyetle yiyiyoruz.<\/p>\n

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Yemek sonras\u0131 serbest zamanda tarihin i\u00e7indeki sokaklarda gezinirken gelin ve damata denk geldik. \u00c7evrelerinde gen\u00e7lerle bir sokakta m\u00fczik e\u015fli\u011finde oynuyorlard\u0131. Bir ara \u00c7erkez m\u00fczi\u011fine benzer bir \u015fark\u0131 \u00e7al\u0131nd\u0131\u011f\u0131nda ordaki gen\u00e7lerden biriyle \u00e7erkez oyunu oynamaya ba\u015flad\u0131m hemen. O da \u00e7ok benzer fig\u00fcrlerle kar\u015f\u0131l\u0131k verdi bana.<\/p>\n

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Turistlere merak ve hayranl\u0131kla bak\u0131yorlar. T\u00fcrk\u00e7e konu\u015fmam\u0131za ra\u011fmen sa\u00e7lar\u0131m\u0131 sar\u0131 g\u00f6r\u00fcnce T\u00fcrk oldu\u011fumuz ak\u0131llar\u0131na gelmiyor. Frans\u0131z turistleri \u00e7ok olsa gerek, Frans\u0131z san\u0131yorlar.<\/p>\n

Biraz al\u0131\u015fveri\u015f yap\u0131p Vefa\u2019ya y\u00f6resel \u015fapkalar\u0131 olan doppi al\u0131yoruz.<\/p>\n

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Djuma Cami (Cuma Cami)<\/strong><\/p>\n

Grupla bulu\u015fup geziye devam ediyoruz.<\/p>\n

\u00d6zbekistan’da Cuma namaz\u0131 sadece \u00e7ok b\u00fcy\u00fck belli camilerde k\u0131l\u0131n\u0131yor. Bunlara da Cuma Cami deniyor. Hiva’daki\u00a0Cuma Cami\u00a0i\u00e7 kalenin merkezinde bulunuyor. Ata Kap\u0131\u2019y\u0131\u00a0Pehlivan Kap\u0131\u2019ya ba\u011flayan ana yol \u00fczerinde.<\/p>\n

\u0130lk olarak 10. yy.da yap\u0131lan cami 18. yy.\u0131n ikinci yar\u0131s\u0131nda restore edilmi\u015f eski tip b\u00fcy\u00fck bir cami. Be\u015f bin ki\u015fi namaz k\u0131labiliyormu\u015f. \u015eu anda m\u00fcze olarak kullan\u0131l\u0131yor.<\/p>\n

Dikd\u00f6rtgen planl\u0131, tek salonlu, d\u00fcz \u00e7at\u0131l\u0131 yap\u0131 212 adet ah\u015fap s\u00fctun ile desteklenmi\u015f. Bu s\u00fctunlar de\u011fi\u015fik zamanlarda yap\u0131lm\u0131\u015f. 21 tanesi 10.-11. yy.dan kalma ve kufi arap yaz\u0131lar\u0131 ile i\u015flenmi\u015f. S\u00fctunu bol olan cami bu \u00f6zelli\u011fi ile\u00a0Cordoba camisini hat\u0131rlat\u0131yor.<\/p>\n

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Ortas\u0131nda \u0131\u015f\u0131k als\u0131n diye cam \u00e7at\u0131l\u0131 bir alan ve bunun alt\u0131nda k\u00fc\u00e7\u00fck bir havuz bulunuyor. Bir de caminin i\u00e7inde k\u0131\u015f\u0131n s\u0131cak su ile abdest al\u0131nmas\u0131 i\u00e7in yap\u0131lm\u0131\u015f k\u00fc\u00e7\u00fck kubbeli bir yap\u0131 var.<\/p>\n

Caminin kuzey duvar\u0131nda sert tu\u011fladan yap\u0131lm\u0131\u015f, 6,2 metre \u00e7apta ve 32,5 metre y\u00fcksekli\u011finde minaresi mevcut. 17. yy.da \u00e7\u00f6ken eski minarenin yerine yap\u0131lm\u0131\u015f.<\/p>\n

Bu arada dikkat \u00e7ekici bir nokta: Hiva\u2019da yer alan 5 minare ayn\u0131 \u00e7izgide, do\u011fu-bat\u0131 hatt\u0131nda (g\u00fcne\u015f hareket \u00e7izgisi)\u00a0\u00a0 bulunur. Herbirinin birbirinden uzakl\u0131\u011f\u0131\u00a0 200 metredir. En bat\u0131da; Sha-Kalandar Kompleksi, i\u00e7 kalenin en bat\u0131s\u0131nda\u00a0Kalta Min\u00f6r, ortada Cuma Cami Minaresi, do\u011fuda d\u0131\u015f kalede Seyid-bey Cami Minaresi ve Palvan-kari Minaresi.<\/p>\n

Tash khauli palaca (Ta\u015f Avlu Saray)<\/strong><\/p>\n

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\u0130\u00e7 kalenin en do\u011fusunda, Pehlivan kap\u0131n\u0131n yak\u0131n\u0131nda yazl\u0131k saray bulunuyor. Allakuli Han 18 yy. sonunda Rusya\u2019dan gelen Han. 1830\u2019da kendi saray\u0131n\u0131 yapt\u0131r\u0131yor. Yap\u0131m\u0131 8 y\u0131lda bitiyor.<\/p>\n

Kunya Ark\u2019\u0131n yar\u0131s\u0131 b\u00fcy\u00fckl\u00fc\u011f\u00fcnde alanda kerpi\u00e7ten yap\u0131lm\u0131\u015f Ta\u015f Avlu;\u00a0i\u00e7 avlular \u00e7evresinde \u00fc\u00e7 b\u00f6l\u00fcmden olu\u015fuyor.\u00a0 \u00a0Labirent benzeri dar koridorlar ve odalar farkl\u0131 ge\u00e7itler ile birbirine ba\u011flanm\u0131\u015f.<\/p>\n

Resmi kabul salonu<\/strong><\/p>\n

Han\u0131n konuklar\u0131n\u0131 kabul etti\u011fi ve g\u00fcnl\u00fck i\u015flerin yap\u0131ld\u0131\u011f\u0131 alanlar. Yazl\u0131k ve k\u0131\u015fl\u0131k k\u0131s\u0131mlar\u0131 var.<\/p>\n

\u0130kinci avlu<\/strong>: \u0130\u015frat odas\u0131 (Misafir odas\u0131)<\/p>\n

B\u00fcy\u00fckel\u00e7i, b\u00fcy\u00fck kervan lideri vb. \u00f6nemli ki\u015filerin geldi\u011finde kald\u0131\u011f\u0131 b\u00f6l\u00fcm. Burada dans g\u00f6sterileri de yap\u0131l\u0131yor.<\/p>\n

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Pencereler bak\u0131r kafeslerle dekore edilmi\u015f. \u00c7iniler, tavanlarda renkli boyamalar, oyulmu\u015f s\u00fctunlar ve kap\u0131lar muazzam g\u00fczellikte. \u00d6zellikle ta\u015f kaideler \u00fczerinde y\u00fckselen oyulmu\u015f ah\u015fap s\u00fctunlar hayranl\u0131k uyand\u0131r\u0131yor.<\/p>\n

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\u00a0\u00dc\u00e7\u00fcnc\u00fc avlu: Harem<\/strong><\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n

Han ailesine ait odalar bulunuyor. D\u00f6rt han\u0131m\u0131 i\u00e7in ayr\u0131 b\u00f6l\u00fcmler var.<\/p>\n

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Odalara ortadaki kap\u0131dan Han ve e\u015fi, yandaki k\u00fc\u00e7\u00fck kap\u0131dan hizmet\u00e7i giriyor. A\u015fa\u011f\u0131daki foto\u011frafta d\u00f6rt han\u0131m i\u00e7in d\u00f6rt ayr\u0131 oda g\u00f6r\u00fcl\u00fcyor.<\/p>\n

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Avlunun kar\u015f\u0131 taraf\u0131nda \u00e7ocuklar\u0131n kald\u0131\u011f\u0131 b\u00f6l\u00fcmler var.\u00a0Yaz\u0131n \u00fcst kattaki balkonlarda yaz\u0131n alt kattaki odalarda yat\u0131yorlar.\u00a0Avluya a\u00e7\u0131lan geni\u015f mutfak t\u00fcm han\u0131m ve \u00e7ocuklar i\u00e7in.<\/p>\n

Avludaki d\u0131\u015f teraslar e\u015fsiz s\u00fcslemeler ile \u00e7evrelenmi\u015f.<\/p>\n

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Baz\u0131\u00a0duvarlarda zerd\u00fc\u015ftl\u00fck sembolleri mevcut. Hayat; iyi ve k\u00f6t\u00fc kar\u015f\u0131l\u0131klardan ibarettir.<\/p>\n

Allakuli Han Medresesi<\/strong>
\n17. yy.da yap\u0131lan ilk medresenin yerine 19. yy.da Allakuli Han yeni bir medrese in\u015faat\u0131 ba\u015flatm\u0131\u015f. Allah\u0131n isimlerinin verildi\u011fi 99 h\u00fccreye sahipmi\u015f. \u0130n\u015faat\u0131 ba\u015flatan \u201cAllakuli Han\u201d\u0131n ismine atfedilmi\u015ftir. Birinci katta Allakuli han taraf\u0131ndan kurulan \u015fehir k\u00fct\u00fcphanesi bulunur.<\/p>\n

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Pehlivan kap\u0131<\/strong><\/p>\n

Do\u011fu kap\u0131s\u0131na geliyoruz art\u0131k. Ticaretin yo\u011funla\u015ft\u0131\u011f\u0131 bir kap\u0131 olarak \u00f6ne \u00e7\u0131kan\u00a0Pehlivan Kap\u0131, bir d\u00f6nem esir ticaretinin yo\u011funlu\u011fu ile \u00fcn salm\u0131\u015f. \u0130pek Yolu\u2019nun \u00fczerinde yer alan Hiva\u2019daki bu ticari yo\u011funluk nedeniyle 19.yy.da\u00a0Allakuli Han\u00a0taraf\u0131ndan bu kap\u0131ya kom\u015fu bir de kervansaray yap\u0131lm\u0131\u015f. Eskiden ak\u015famlar\u0131 bu kap\u0131 i\u00e7inde k\u00f6leler yatarm\u0131\u015f. Bug\u00fcn ise hediyelik e\u015fya sat\u0131c\u0131lar\u0131 bulunuyor.<\/p>\n

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\u0130slam Khodja Minare ve Medresesi (G\u00fczel Sanatlar M\u00fczesi)<\/strong><\/p>\n

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\u0130slam Hoca, 19.yy.da Rusya\u2019n\u0131n n\u00fcfuzu alt\u0131ndaki Hiva Hanl\u0131\u011f\u0131\u2019n\u0131n son y\u0131llar\u0131nda h\u00fck\u00fcm s\u00fcren\u00a0II. Muhammed Rahim Han\u2019\u0131n vezirlerinden ve diplomat ki\u015fili\u011fi ile zaman\u0131n\u0131n \u00f6nemli bir devlet adam\u0131. Ayn\u0131 zamanda\u00a0Muhammed Rahim Han\u2019\u0131n d\u00fcn\u00fcr\u00fc de olan\u00a0\u0130slam Hoca, bir\u00e7ok reform yap\u0131yor. Posta ve telgrafhane kuruyor. Yenilik\u00e7i okullar a\u00e7\u0131yor. \u0130lk Avrupa tipi hastaneyi kuruyor. Rusya\u2019dan geldi\u011fi i\u00e7in \u00e7arlarla da aras\u0131 iyi. \u0130slam Hoca\u2019n\u0131n devlet y\u00f6netiminde giderek artan g\u00fcc\u00fc ve \u015f\u00f6hreti, damad\u0131\u00a0\u0130sfendiyar Han\u2019\u0131 zaman i\u00e7inde rahats\u0131z ediyor ve onu bir komployla y\u00f6netimden uzakla\u015ft\u0131r\u0131p \u00f6ld\u00fcrt\u00fcyor (1913).<\/p>\n

42 h\u00fccreli k\u00fc\u00e7\u00fck bir medrese ve Hiva\u2019n\u0131n en\u00a0 uzun minaresinden olu\u015fuyor yap\u0131. 45 metre uzunlu\u011fundaki minareyi yatay kemerler tarz\u0131nda \u00a0a\u00e7\u0131k ve koyu mavi, beyaz, ye\u015fil s\u0131rl\u0131 \u00e7iniler s\u00fcslemi\u015f.<\/p>\n

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Rehberle program bitince grup da\u011f\u0131ld\u0131. Biz de g\u00fcne\u015f \u0131\u015f\u0131klar\u0131n\u0131n uygun zaman\u0131 diye ko\u015far ad\u0131m Kunya Arka d\u00f6nd\u00fck. Kale i\u00e7indeki seyirlik terasa \u00e7\u0131k\u0131\u015f 4000 som. 3 lira yani. Burada her \u015fey ucuz.<\/p>\n

Ak\u015fam bir ba\u015fka g\u00fczel Hiva. Bir zamanlar Han\u0131n \u015fehrini izledi\u011fi terastay\u0131z. Buradan \u015fehrin panoramik g\u00f6r\u00fcn\u00fcm\u00fc muhte\u015fem. Vefa bu g\u00fczelli\u011fi\u00a0 aktarabilmek i\u00e7in bol bol foto\u011fraf \u00e7ekiyor.<\/p>\n

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Arkada Allakuli Han Medresesi, \u0130slam Hoca Minaresi ve Pehlivan\u00a0Mahmut T\u00fcrbesi kubbesi<\/p>\n

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Arkada Kalta Minor, Pehlivan Mahmut T\u00fcrbesi , Hoca \u0130slam Minaresi, Cuma Cami Minaresi ve Rahim Han II Medresesi g\u00f6r\u00fcl\u00fcyor.<\/p>\n

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\u00a0Ayr\u0131lmak istemiyor can\u0131m buradan.<\/div>\n

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Terastayken kar\u015f\u0131la\u015ft\u0131\u011f\u0131m\u0131z bir aile ile foto\u011fraf \u00e7ektiriyoruz. Ne g\u00fczel insanlar. Kan \u00e7ekiyor galiba.<\/p>\n

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\u00a0Ak\u015fam yemekte yine otelin kar\u015f\u0131s\u0131ndaki medresedeyiz. Bir aile bize geleneksel dans g\u00f6sterisi sunuyor. Dans DVD\u2019lerini de al\u0131yoruz sonras\u0131nda.<\/div>\n

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\u00a0Yemekten sonra ise g\u00fcnd\u00fcz be\u011fendi\u011fimiz ipekli bir hal\u0131y\u0131 almak i\u00e7in Rabia\u2019n\u0131n d\u00fckkan\u0131na gidiyoruz. 8 ayl\u0131k hamile Rabia hi\u00e7 \u00fc\u015fenmeden hal\u0131lar\u0131 yay\u0131yor \u00f6n\u00fcm\u00fcze. G\u00fcnd\u00fcz\u00a0buradan al\u0131\u015f\u00a0veri\u015f yapan\u00a0arkada\u015flar zaten pazarl\u0131\u011f\u0131 da yapm\u0131\u015flard\u0131.\u00a0300 dolara hal\u0131 ve 70 dolara da buran\u0131n me\u015fhur el dokuma ipekli suzanna \u00f6rt\u00fcs\u00fcnden\u00a0 al\u0131yoruz. D\u00f6n\u00fc\u015fte de otelin kar\u015f\u0131s\u0131ndaki bir cafede kahvelerimizi i\u00e7ip fas\u0131l yap\u0131yoruz. (T\u00fcrk kahvesini bilmiyorlar ne yaz\u0131k ki.)<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n
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Hiva’dan g\u00fczel foto\u011fraflarla bir sonraki yaz\u0131ya kadar \u015fimdilik Allaha \u0131smarlad\u0131k.<\/p>\n

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\"\"<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

\u00d6zbekistan gezimizde \u00f6nce Ta\u015fkenti gezmi\u015ftik. Gezimizin 2. g\u00fcn\u00fc gecesi ge\u00e7 saatlerde Hiva’ya var\u0131yoruz. Urgen\u00e7 ve Hiva;\u00a0Harezm vilayetinin \u015fehirleridir. Harezm; s\u0131cak \u00fclke demek. Gece otob\u00fcsle \u015fehrin kap\u0131s\u0131ndan i\u00e7 kaleye giriyor ve \u0131\u015f\u0131ks\u0131z bir ortamda ilerleyerek otelimize var\u0131yoruz.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":9,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[40,2],"tags":[3,4,13,14,15,5,6,11,7,8,12,9,10],"class_list":["post-1","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-hiva","category-ozbekistan","tag-gezi","tag-hiva","tag-hiva-gezimiz","tag-hivada-gorulecek-yerler","tag-hivada-unlu-yapilar","tag-medrese","tag-orta-asya","tag-ozbekistan","tag-seyahat","tag-tarih","tag-timur","tag-turk-cumhuriyetleri","tag-yemek"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.yeryuzundebirkacadim.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.yeryuzundebirkacadim.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.yeryuzundebirkacadim.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.yeryuzundebirkacadim.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.yeryuzundebirkacadim.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=1"}],"version-history":[{"count":17,"href":"https:\/\/www.yeryuzundebirkacadim.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":1412,"href":"https:\/\/www.yeryuzundebirkacadim.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1\/revisions\/1412"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.yeryuzundebirkacadim.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/9"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.yeryuzundebirkacadim.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=1"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.yeryuzundebirkacadim.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=1"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.yeryuzundebirkacadim.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=1"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}